Ripping sheet goods
- Thread starter myer84
- Start date
Naildrivingman
Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2017
- Messages
- 509
There have been posts here where users questioned the straightness of contiguous long rails as well. Personally, I own the 1400 & 2700 and I bought them strictly for the convenience of processing sheet goods. Neither have let me down. I would strongly suggest that Makita splinter guards are employed. They are better than FTs offerings, plus they add an additional grip strip to the rail.
bnaboatbuilder
Member
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2013
- Messages
- 128
Never had any issues using the Festool connectors and Betterley edge. But I did buy the Makita 118" rail last night from Tool Nut because the price is just too good at $174.
Cheese
Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2015
- Messages
- 12,505
Check your splinter strips to make sure they protrude from the rail an equal distance on both ends and along the entire length. A while back one of the splinter strips on my 1400 rail was actually protruding about 1/16" less than it should be about 18-24" from the end of the rail (slightly bowed in) while the very end of the strip was in proper position.
This meant if the pencil marks were made near the ends of the rails and I aligned the ends of the rails to the pencil marks everything was fine. If however, I wasn't careful and made one of those pencil marks 18-24" from the end of the rail, then I'd be aligning a faulty part of the splinter strip with the pencil mark.
Another good check is to align the 2 rails with a 6 foot level and then tighten everything down. Then move the level to the front of the rails against the splinter strips and note how they align with the level.
This meant if the pencil marks were made near the ends of the rails and I aligned the ends of the rails to the pencil marks everything was fine. If however, I wasn't careful and made one of those pencil marks 18-24" from the end of the rail, then I'd be aligning a faulty part of the splinter strip with the pencil mark.
Another good check is to align the 2 rails with a 6 foot level and then tighten everything down. Then move the level to the front of the rails against the splinter strips and note how they align with the level.
I've questioned my splinter strips at some points because I can visibly see skewed cuts along the center and near the end of the rail, but now seeing your example, I can see how I could possibly place one end of my rail on my reference line, but the blade not actually cutting on it due to the splinter guard being off.
Cheese said:
Naildrivingman
Member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2017
- Messages
- 509
This is a valid point and one that I admit I have not checked often.myer84 said:
I did have a situation once where I used my 2700 rail to bevel the edge of a door. I did not run the entire length of the rail and luckily I observed the splinter guard before I went back to a zero degree cut. Most of the splinter guard was cut to the bevel, but one tick mark landed on the uncut portion. Likely it would have resulted in a minuscule error, but it would have been frustrating nonetheless.
I personally do not use the splinter guard to set my rails, I have four different saws that is use and all are set to cut 3mm from the aluminum track edge or 5.5mm if I need the outside piece. I use my Woodpecker Paolini rules to set this measurement.
Corwin
Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 2,624
I don't use the splinter guard to locate the rail either. Bad idea IMO.
A simple way to locate the rail to your intended cut line is to cut a spacer the width of your guide rail and use that as an offset to locate the back side of the rail instead. To use, place spacer's right end to the line and then but a stop block up to the spacer's left end. Clamp stop block(s) in place, remove spacer and place guide rail up against stop block(s). Simple.
A simple way to locate the rail to your intended cut line is to cut a spacer the width of your guide rail and use that as an offset to locate the back side of the rail instead. To use, place spacer's right end to the line and then but a stop block up to the spacer's left end. Clamp stop block(s) in place, remove spacer and place guide rail up against stop block(s). Simple.
Michael Kellough
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 7,096
Corwin said:
Hi Corwin!
I disagree. To me its much simpler to align the splinter guard to the mark.
Of course that requires a splinter guard that is in good condition and that the blade/saw to be used is the one that trimmed the splinter guard. If that is not the case, a simple work-around is to put a Post-It note (or opaque tape) on the bottom of the splinter guard in the vicinity of the marks then trim the add-ons with the blade/saw to be used and align as usual.
Corwin
Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2007
- Messages
- 2,624
Michael Kellough said:
Nice idea using Post-It notes, Michael. [big grin]
What I like about my method is that when ripping sheet material you don't need to go back and forth to check either end to make sure it remains lines up. Using stop blocks on either end allows one to set the rail in place where you want it without any further adjustment.
I remember years ago people here being impressed with the razor blade method. I wasn't. Far to fiddly for me.
Michael Kellough
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 7,096
[member=182]Corwin[/member] I did use your method when I was making a complicated form that required symmetrically opposed compound miters to be pocket cut. There used to be a picture of it in a photo gallery here (in the old days, two computers ago so I can't find the original anymore).
Here is a nice trick in one of Brian Sedgely's pinterest videos. This is the best way I have seen to join the tracks
https://www.instagram.com/p/BSleKgKDBn6/
Nothing beats a long rail, but this is pretty good.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BSleKgKDBn6/
Nothing beats a long rail, but this is pretty good.
I bought the 3000 several years ago and have never regretted it either, except that storage in my 16x16 shop is a hassle. However recently I have been using it less and less. I have found that for base and upper cabinets which is my main use of sheet goods, I can make the first cut across rather than lengthwise without increasing waste to any measurable degree. I have some tall cabinets coming up that will be an exception but I have found crosscuts work fine for all else.
Since this hasn't been mentioned in the comments above, I'm curious what general experience is as it eliminates the need to join shorter rails if that is all you have.
Dick Perry
Since this hasn't been mentioned in the comments above, I'm curious what general experience is as it eliminates the need to join shorter rails if that is all you have.
Dick Perry
pingvinlakrits
Member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2007
- Messages
- 1,093
Regardless of connected rails or a single looong rail I think it is important to remember to have the sheet goods supported well _all the way_ so it doesn't flex or sag when you are running the tracks saw along the (intended) cut line. The rail itself is not support enough.
I use the Bosch FSN rail system for my Bosch, Metabo and Mafell gear and so far - zero problems. I did score a 3m (I think it is 3100mm) rail for less than a standard rail from a dealer that had an uncollected order. I didn't think I'd use it very often but it has been great to have both for breaking down sheet goods and for long cuts. It hangs up on the ceiling in the workshop in the original cardboard sqube it came in - it is a bit of a hassle to haul it out and stick it in but well worth it.
I use the Bosch FSN rail system for my Bosch, Metabo and Mafell gear and so far - zero problems. I did score a 3m (I think it is 3100mm) rail for less than a standard rail from a dealer that had an uncollected order. I didn't think I'd use it very often but it has been great to have both for breaking down sheet goods and for long cuts. It hangs up on the ceiling in the workshop in the original cardboard sqube it came in - it is a bit of a hassle to haul it out and stick it in but well worth it.
waho6o9
Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2009
- Messages
- 1,868
Welcome to the FOG kevreh
It's a Walko IV sitting on some Stanley saw horses. Perfect height for me.
http://walko.nl/en-uk/
It's a Walko IV sitting on some Stanley saw horses. Perfect height for me.
http://walko.nl/en-uk/
buckeyeguy
Member
- Joined
- Jan 24, 2016
- Messages
- 31
I was wondering about aligning guide rails myself today. I have the standard 1400mm guide rail and was looking at getting another 1400mm LR32 guide rail since I recently picked up an OF 1400.
I have read a lot of where guys were using levels to align. Well, I don't have a level, nor do I have any other use for one, so I was wondering: Is it possible to just run a crosscut along the 4' side of a sheet of ply and then use your fresh cut to align? Basically using it as you would a level?
I have read a lot of where guys were using levels to align. Well, I don't have a level, nor do I have any other use for one, so I was wondering: Is it possible to just run a crosscut along the 4' side of a sheet of ply and then use your fresh cut to align? Basically using it as you would a level?
