Rotex vs. L-N Smoothing Plane?

[rljatl]

Wasn't sure where to post this, so moderators, feel free to move it...

I have been planing to buy a Lie-Nielsen smoothing plane for some time now and recently ran across a 10% off sale on either a #4 1/2 iron or #4 in bronze.

However, after watching some of the recent videos of what the RO 150 can do, I am wondering if the big Rotex with a hard pad can do the same job as a smoothing plane and be more versatile, too?

I've never read anyone compare a hand plane to a sander/Rotex to flatten and smooth a board, but would my money be better spent buying the Rotex or am I comparing apples and oranges?

Found this.  His technique with the Rotex does not look so good compared to Larry Smith's video.
Festool Rotex 125 vs Lee Valley Hand Plane

 

[grbmds]

I'm certainly not an expert on the Rotex sanders. However, while you can use sander (belt sanders and, I suppose a Rotex) to smooth joined wood or make a surface level, they aren't really designed to do the same things. I have used a belt sander, for example to smooth out glue joints, but only as a last resort and that was a long time ago when I was new to woodworking. I mostly use power tools, but, if I wanted to smooth out a surface and get it flat and had only a Rotex or a hand plane, I'd, for sure, use the hand plane; then sand any minor imperfections with the Rotex and get it to it's final point for finishing. I think it's likely you will get other opinions but, if it were me and I wanted a tool for getting a surface level, flat, and smooth I'd get one or more planes. If you need more than one, you don't need to buy Lie-Nielsen although they are the best. Lee Valley's are somewhat less and just as good. I bought a Wood River block plane from Woodcraft and that was much less. It's a great tool also.

 

[gippy]

Do you have a jointer and planer already? If so then a smoothing plane is a great way to finish the boards. I take my boards from the planer, run my Woodriver no 4 over them 2 or 3 times, burnish with a hand full of shavings and they are ready for finish. It takes a bit of practise and a very sharp blade of course.
I wouldn't want to flatten a board with very much twist with a no 4 though.
I have seen a couple of videos on YouTube where people take a board from their planer and attack it with 50 grit paper in a Rotex, never been sure what that is trying to show to be honest.

 

[mouppe]

Wasn't sure where to post this, so moderators, feel free to move it...

I have been planing to buy a Lie-Nielsen smoothing plane for some time now and recently ran across a 10% off sale on either a #4 1/2 iron or #4 in bronze.

However, after watching some of the recent videos of what the RO 150 can do, I am wondering if the big Rotex with a hard pad can do the same job as a smoothing plane and be more versatile, too?

I've never read anyone compare a hand plane to a sander/Rotex to flatten and smooth a board, but would my money be better spent buying the Rotex or am I comparing apples and oranges?

Found this.  His technique with the Rotex does not look so good compared to Larry Smith's video.
Festool Rotex 125 vs Lee Valley Hand Plane

Cheeky bugger! 

That's my video and although I made it several years ago, I can assure you that there is nothing wrong with my rotex technique! I would say that I have improved my hand plane skills, so that now I would hand plane birds eye maple rather than sand it, but even so, there is always a place for a little sanding, if only to cut back a hand planed surface so as to better take a finish.

Some surfaces just can't be planed, so you have to scrape or sand. I use a RO125 and an ETS 125 for all my sanding needs, but most of my work is done with hand planes.

You need both hand planes and sanders for the best results.

 

[rljatl]

Do you have a jointer and planer already? If so then a smoothing plane is a great way to finish the boards. I take my boards from the planer, run my Woodriver no 4 over them 2 or 3 times, burnish with a hand full of shavings and they are ready for finish. It takes a bit of practise and a very sharp blade of course.
I wouldn't want to flatten a board with very much twist with a no 4 though.
I have seen a couple of videos on YouTube where people take a board from their planer and attack it with 50 grit paper in a Rotex, never been sure what that is trying to show to be honest.

No, I don't have a jointer or planer.  That's part of what I am trying to figure out.  Can I get by with buying only dressed lumber?  If not, can I get by with only a ~13" lunchbox planer?  My Festool track saw cuts such a clean edge that I have wondered if I can get by without a jointer?  Or would a L-N jointer plane be better?  All questions I am trying to figure out.  Space is the problem.

 

[rljatl]

Wasn't sure where to post this, so moderators, feel free to move it...

I have been planing to buy a Lie-Nielsen smoothing plane for some time now and recently ran across a 10% off sale on either a #4 1/2 iron or #4 in bronze.

However, after watching some of the recent videos of what the RO 150 can do, I am wondering if the big Rotex with a hard pad can do the same job as a smoothing plane and be more versatile, too?

I've never read anyone compare a hand plane to a sander/Rotex to flatten and smooth a board, but would my money be better spent buying the Rotex or am I comparing apples and oranges?

Found this.  His technique with the Rotex does not look so good compared to Larry Smith's video.
Festool Rotex 125 vs Lee Valley Hand Plane

Cheeky bugger! 

That's my video and although I made it several years ago, I can assure you that there is nothing wrong with my rotex technique! I would say that I have improved my hand plane skills, so that now I would hand plane birds eye maple rather than sand it, but even so, there is always a place for a little sanding, if only to cut back a hand planed surface so as to better take a finish.

Some surfaces just can't be planed, so you have to scrape or sand. I use a RO125 and an ETS 125 for all my sanding needs, but most of my work is done with hand planes.

You need both hand planes and sanders for the best results.

Ha!  I wondered if that was somebody on FOG.  [big grin]

 

[gippy]

No, I don't have a jointer or planer.  That's part of what I am trying to figure out.  Can I get by with buying only dressed lumber?  If not, can I get by with only a ~13" lunchbox planer?  My Festool track saw cuts such a clean edge that I have wondered if I can get by without a jointer?  Or would a L-N jointer plane be better?  All questions I am trying to figure out.  Space is the problem.

I started with dressed lumber but here in Thailand the choice is limited to rubber wood which bent before I got it home, very frustrating. I now have a Makita lunchbox planer. I use it with a sled to face joint or just use a hand plane to get one face flat enough to put through the planer. I use the TS55 to put a straight edge on very rough boards, then clean it up with sandpaper or a plane. You can also edge joint with a router and straight edge or with a router table. For small boards I find a no 4 works fine as a jointer.