Router.... the OF 1400 EQ for general routering and use with the 32mm system

[Steve R]

Hey Fog,

I need another 1400 rail and am looking at going with the FS 1400/2-LR 32.... and really wonder why all rails are not 32 ready but that is a whole other thread...LOL

I do a lot of remodeling/re purposing of spaces. Home office rebuilds are becoming more and more a demand as people now working from home and need a space that fits their needs.

I'm in a place to soon need to replace a non Festool router....

I'm not currently a heavy user of a Router...but that could change... When I view the whole 32mm system videos they all use the 1010. Never the 1400.

My first question is this...  Is the 1400 too big and slow to use for the 32mm system? Keep in mind I'm not building cabs but at times I am fixing problems from people that think they can. I also need to have the option to build/fix a cabinet, generally on site.

The first part of the question is this... I want to  have a router that will allow me to do counter top trim, etc. some edging work... and gee maybe some dove tails.

So would the 1400 be the best pick...or?????

I look forward to fellow FOG members thoughts....

Cheers,
Steve

 

[rmwarren]

Steve,

I recently purchased the OF 1400, I have previously owned a PC 690 and PC 1-3/4 HP plunge, a Bosch 1611 and a 3 HP Dewalt plunge. I am a serious hobbiest, doing the finish work, cabinetry and trim in our own home that we are completing the construction of, I don't use them full time but I do tend to use them hard.

I have to state that the 1400 is the most all-around useful and enjoyable router I have used. Overall it is very well balanced and has plenty of power for general routing, I don't tend to spin big door raising bits or do rail/stiles so I can't comment about that. I don't own the LR 32 but I do plan to buy one, I think it will work fine for occasional 32mm hole line boring.

The best attributes for me are the dust extraction, manageable size & weight, and ergonomics, I really like the hand grip/knob combination. I used it for cutting some 3/4 dados yesterday in hard maple and I found myself extending my reach and controlling it comfortably with one hand. It is comfortable for me to swing it into position and remove it one-handed also.

Hope this helps.

 

[peter halle]

Steve,

The 1400 is taller than the 1010 and the motor is larger.  If you watch the videos, you might notice thatthe router is locked on and the router is plunged with a hand on top of the motor housing.  The 1010 is a little bit more comfortable to me for this, but not a huge difference.  Not enough for me to buy a 1010 if I already have the 1400.

The 1400 has more horses under the hood and does allow you to use 1/2 diameter bits.  That may or not be important to you.  For laminate work you don't need as much uumph and the lighter weight of the 1010 might be an advantage, but once again, the 1400 can and will do.

Peter

 

[Steve R]

Steve,

The 1400 is taller than the 1010 and the motor is larger.  If you watch the videos, you might notice thatthe router is locked on and the router is plunged with a hand on top of the motor housing.  The 1010 is a little bit more comfortable to me for this, but not a huge difference.  Not enough for me to buy a 1010 if I already have the 1400.

The 1400 has more horses under the hood and does allow you to use 1/2 diameter bits.  That may or not be important to you.  For laminate work you don't need as much uumph and the lighter weight of the 1010 might be an advantage, but once again, the 1400 can and will do.

Peter

Great comment... what is the tipping point for you to move from a 1010 to a 1400?

Cheers,
Steve

 

[peter halle]

Steve,

I have the 1400.  When I researched and then bought it it was because of the 1/2 shank bit capability.  I already had several hundreds of dollars of those size bits.  I also had a Porter Cable Laminate trimmer set.

I have used the 1010 in classes and it is indeed a sweet tool.  IF I were to set up a dedicated 32 mm boring operation using the Festool system, I would have a dedicated 1010 on it.  But I am a generalist as a contractor and tools need to pay their way in less than a year in my book.

Sorry if I gave the wrong impression about what model I had.

Peter

 

[Steve R]

Steve,

I have the 1400.  When I researched and then bought it it was because of the 1/2 shank bit capability.  I already had several hundreds of dollars of those size bits.  I also had a Porter Cable Laminate trimmer set.

I have used the 1010 in classes and it is indeed a sweet tool.  IF I were to set up a dedicated 32 mm boring operation using the Festool system, I would have a dedicated 1010 on it.  But I am a generalist as a contractor and tools need to pay their way in less than a year in my book.

Sorry if I gave the wrong impression about what model I had.

Peter

Peter,

No wrong impression. I too am leaning toward the 1400 because of the 1/2 inch shank and that it will work with the 32 system. I very much agree that if I was just building cabs... the 1010 is the way to got if dedicated.

But also being a generalist I'm with you that the 1400 seems to be the way to go.

Thanks for your response.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[sancho57]

How does the 1400 work with the 32mm system. I currently own a pc 690 router for hand held operations and Im tired of sweeping up the dust and vacuuming it up after it settles all over the shop. I dont really do a lot of adjustable shelfs but I do drill a lot of 35mm hole in doors for euro hinges and install a lot of drawer slides.

Anyway Im still kicking the idea around.

Any word when that fancy Festool router table is going to be released in the states yet???

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I've only used the 32mm system in class, so no comment on that part of your question.  I build furniture and do some light remodeling at home.  I have the 1010, 1400, and the 2200 (along with a Bosch colt, a PC 7518 and a Bosch 1617 and Trend T4 that will be on craigslist next week).

I would say that 80-90 percent of the time I'm using the 1400.  It's plenty powerful for deep mortises but not the brute that the 2200 is.  I use the 1010 for tight spaces where a precise plunge is needed.  The 2200 is great for swinging large bits.  I curse the pc and the 1617 everytime I have to use two wrenches to change a bit.  

And yes, the 1400 does dovetails nicely.

If I had to go down to one router, it would definitely be the 1400.

 

[peter halle]

How does the 1400 work with the 32mm system. I currently own a pc 690 router for hand held operations and Im tired of sweeping up the dust and vacuuming it up after it settles all over the shop. I dont really do a lot of adjustable shelfs but I do drill a lot of 35mm hole in doors for euro hinges and install a lot of drawer slides.

Anyway Im still kicking the idea around.

Any word when that fancy Festool router table is going to be released in the states yet???

Festool has a system for using the 1400 or the 1010 and accessories that allows you to drill holes on the 32mm pattern using a guide rail that has indexing holes.  It also will do the set up for drilling cabinet hinge holes.

Several great videos out there.  If you want, sent me a PM and I will send you links.

Peter

 

[Wonderwino]

I have the OF1010 and the LR32 System.  The 1010 is the ideal router for the LR 32.  It has plenty of power to drill the holes and is light and easy to use. 

I used an OF1400 at class and it is quite a bit larger and heavier.  It will probably work fine with the LR32, but might be overkill.

Another big difference between the two routers is the depth of plunge.  The OF1400 has quite a bit more depth range.  This may be important if you need it.  [cool]

 

[builderbob]

In my opinion, the 1400 is the general router of choice.  The 1010 is nice and lightweight but cannot use 1/2" bits, therefore it may not be practical for those of us that have 1/2" bits.  I'm very curious if I'm the only person that has had any issues with mounting the 1010 to the LR 32 plate and keeping alignment...I'll explain.

I originally purchased the 1010 a few years back knowing that I would eventually get into the LR 32 for pin hole drilling and toss my garbage plastic jig.  I finally purchased both size rails (long & short) since I build a lot of built-in cabinets.  I didn't have too much trouble centering up the 1010 in the plate with the centering mandrel, but found it cumbersome.  I felt like there should be a way for the 1010 to mount to the plate via a few screws through the bottom of the plate to get simple centering alignment.  So, I had a project that a customer wanted edgebanded ply in their pantry with pin holes from top to bottom.  I set up the 1010 on the LR 32 plate and away I went.  I through bored 7 vertical members top to bottom and checked a few to make sure my holes were lining up...everything seemed ok.  I installed all of the vertical members and started to put the shelves in to only find out that somewhere along the way during the hole boring process, my 1010 went out of alignment on the LR 32 plate.  The last sets of shelves were lower on one side than the opposite sides.  I was able to save my butt and fix the problem on site, but felt like an arse as the client was sitting at their island watching me the entire time I installed (love having an audience haha).  

The second I got paid & left their house, I was like Kreg McMahon...I strutted down to my local Woodcraft and purchased the 1400.  You see, the 1400 has two screws that screw into the base of the router from the underside of the LR 32 plate that hold the 1400 perfectly in place.  Since that day, I have had consistent perfect alignment with my pin hole drilling and I have recommended on this forum many times the 1400 over the 1010 for this very reason.

The weight of the 1400 isn't terrible as far as running the pin holes is concerned.  Is the 1010 more of an ideal weight for the task?  Sure it is...I'm a pretty small dude and have no problem running the 1400 for this task!

I use my tools everyday...it's what pays my bills.  I don't have the time to keep fiddling with little situations that could create larger setbacks in the long run!

Hope this helps answer your questions!

Bob

 

[Bill Chang]

I am about to pull the trigger on a 1400 and what swung it for me is my collection of 1/2" shank bits.

I can go down to 1/4" but I can't go up to the 1/2" [with the 1010].

I've been using a Dewalt plunge forever but wanted a router to go with the LR32 so it looks like I'm getting the 1400 next week.

 

[gates559]

I have both and I will pick the 1010 over the 1400 any time I can. It is lighter and easier to use, It is less tipsy when you are routing an edge especially the corners. For what you will be doing I would say the 1010 is better for you, he 1400 is good for dadoes and milling solid wood. If you are doing built in's I assume you will want to profile some edges, maybe do some fluting and drill your system holes. The 1010 is perfect for that stuff.

I don't have the 32mm system (not Festool anyways) but I would think the 1010 would be a lot nicer to use for that as well. For me the price of the 32mm system didnt make it very desirable. You can get a real line boring machine for a little more, which would be a lot faster and easier if you do much boring.

 

[Steve R]

Thanks for all the responses! and look forward to more.

I'm concluding from these helpful comments that:

Each Festool router has its place... and I should work toward owning all of them. [big grin]

If I were to build 32 cabs all the time, go with the 1010 in a dedicated set up.

If I want to build some 32 stuff and do more, the 1400 is a great choice for a ONE router shop/vehicle.

Thanks FOG... many great comments and perspectives.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Julian Tracy]

Ratcheting router collets are way overrated.  What's the big problem with two wrenches?  With two wrenches, you can loosen a collet with a simple squeeze of a hand.  With the ratcheting collet on my 1400, you have to hold down the entire router with one hand and hold the wrench with the other.

Two-wrench router collets work great, but you do need to use some common sense with the positioning of the wrenches, that's what makes them work so great.

To me, the 1400 is a bit overrated as well, because the famous Festool dust collection comes only with a cheesy clip on dust port that obscures all visibility of the bit.

The 1010's in the base dust collection is a much better design.  I'd have gladly given up 1/2" or so of plunge depth to have had a thicker subbase with a dust port.

I find the 1400 to be heavier than any other mid-powered router I've used.  I bought mine for half priced used - at that price I like it.  At full retail, not worth the price.

I can get a clip-on chessy dust port for a Bosch router that'll equal the dust collection and at 1/4th the price.

I love the 1010, the 1400 is a good complement, but certainly no gem of their lineup.  I'm always amazed at the praise for it because the dust collection features seem an afterthought.

If it had the quick-release base ideas of the 2200, I could see it being among the best choices for an all-around router, but it doesn't even offer that.

JT