Shelving for Systainers & Stuff

MacBoy

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2021
Messages
63
Location
Los Angeles area
Got tired of the stacking game and finally did something about it.

I was able to use reclaimed or ultra-cheap materials:
  • MDO plywood discards from an ADU builder
  • Shelves put out on the sidewalk
  • Dual-laminated MDF for $10 a 4x8 sheet from a cabinetmaker (mistake purchase of 200 qty)
I decided to use zero hardware — no screws. Only used Domino tenons and glue.

The next day I was frustrated with “Where do I put these screws? Can I just open a systainer and grab something from it?”

So I installed a pull-out shelf that slides on wood runners. That was a tip learned from Sedge’s garage shop. The pull-out shelf closes flush — I had forgotten to shove it all the way back in the photo.

The LR32 kit was used for the shelf pin holes. This time I made the length of the verticals to be a multiple of 32mm — it’s such a delight to have balanced boards for the snug fit between the LR32 spacers. 😀

All the edges were rounded over with a router on the UG underframe (mobile cart) of the CSC SYS 50 table saw. That Underframe cart is way too low to do any work directly on it — lesson learned.

It’s a pleasure to do clamping with the Sash Clamps. The F-clamps are awkward and heavier in comparison.

I could not find the Betterley Alignment Tool. So I used the Woodpeckers 36” Straight Edge to check for any wobble on the rib of the combined LR32 tracks. A wood block with a rubber mallet helped to get the tracks aligned.

A few days later, found the Betterley Alignment Tool a few days later sitting on table of the unused scroll saw. 🤦🏾‍♂️

On the Miter Saw, I found a random scrap block for the Stop Block. However, squint to see the 1mm yellow shim for that just right measurement. The extension on that side of the Cart is frozen — it does not move. Someday I will fix it.

Face Mortises are so much easier with the TSO Bigfoot. I have much more confidence in the placement and stability of the Domino when using the Bigfoot. However because of the weight and awkwardness, I don’t use the Bigfoot when doing edge mortises.

End Mortises into the Rails were done by using the Trim Stop accessory. That saves a lot of time and it’s so much easier than aligning to a pencil line.

I should’ve reversed the width of the mortises. The MDF rails had Medium width end mortises. The plywood uprights had Tight width face mortises. I now realize for strength, the MDF narrow rails should receive Tight width end mortises.
 

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Looks good, it's always nice when you can improve storage in the shed!

I have the same aluminium sash clamps, they're not real strong, but they are extremely handy as you note.
 
When I first got my track saw I assumed I would be using it in my basement shop. That turned out to be rarely the case.

Instead I used roller stands to directly remove the plywood sheets from my van and load it onto saw horses. Then I would cut the sheets to finished sizes before taking the cut plywood down to the shop.

So I added a shelf in the garage. Made entirely from melamine clad 16” deep pre-drilled shelving material. The front edge is finished from the factory. So no finish work required.

Assembled with 8mm dowels 32mm on center and glued. I added rods for hanging tracks and accessories. Room for a shelf above. I would have been better served making it a bit wider to facilitate removal.

Three images (you have to swipe to the side—I have no idea why it presents like that).

 
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Super nice it is Still holding together with dowels — great real-life many-years example, @Packard

For a moment I thought the spring clamps were holding the tracks onto the side of the cabinet‼️

Thanks for sharing.
 
Be
Super nice it is Still holding together with dowels — great real-life many-years example, @Packard

For a moment I thought the spring clamps were holding the tracks onto the side of the cabinet‼️

Thanks for sharing.
Before I bought the TSO parallel guide, those clamps were part of my home-made parallel guide system.

I had two aluminum yardsticks, each equipped with a thumb screw clamp originally intended for a rafter square. I would set the size of the cut and add 1/8” to compensate for the blade width using the brass clamps. Then I would use the squeeze clamps to clamp the two yardsticks to the stock. I would bank the edge of the guide rail against the ends of the two yardsticks and then clamp the rail in place.

The problem with the system was that I would not always remember to add the 1/8”. And then my cuts would be 1/8” undersized. I resolved that issue after I got the TSO parallel guides. I had bought car door edge protectors for my car. They turned out to add 1/8”. Using the left over scrap I slipped a bit onto the ends of the yard sticks (see image at the bottom.

If I had thought of that originally, I probably would not have bought the TSO parallel guides. Their squaring arm would have been purchased anyway.

So that is the reason the squeeze clamps are part of that “kit”. In the image below, the home-made guide is set for a 3” cut.

1759327877446.jpg

 
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