Hi all.
I'm a hobbyist. I like precision work.
The router table is my preferred way to route. But I often end up with the MFS or other templates and route with my OF1010.
The 1010 is a great little thing, but there are things that I keep getting annoyed with:
1. Manually centering the template rings (guide bushing) with the centering cone is a PITA. There is to little room to fasten the centering tool properly. And I often change bushing size between routes but like to keep the bit inserted. This is not posible when I have to fit the centering tool between each plate change.
2. Routing depth is often to shallow for me. I keep thinking that "I'll manage this time". But the next time I get annoyed again.
3. The 1010 does some squeek and squeel in many situations. I don't know if it's caused by vibrations in the not-so-massive body or if the motor doesn't have enough force.
Now..
The 2200 seems to be the perfect upgrade due to the above, But it is a pricey beast, so I need to know some more before I go for it.
1. Is this router to big a power consumer to be fed by the CTL26? This would be a major drawback. Is there a solution for this problem?
2. I remember reading a thread about the guide bushings having a litle slop in the fitting. Can someone verify that this is not the case?
3. Anyone else had the 1010 and then bought the 2200? Which router do you use most and why?
4. PC guide bushings seems great. But we don't have them in Europe as far as I know. Do they come in metric sizes? How are they compared to the regular Festool guide plates? It seems like a better idea to use turned/milled bushings than the prssed ones from Festool, precision wise.
5. Should I consider the 1400 as well? The 2200 seems to have superior dust control, but the price...
//Michael
I'm a hobbyist. I like precision work.
The router table is my preferred way to route. But I often end up with the MFS or other templates and route with my OF1010.
The 1010 is a great little thing, but there are things that I keep getting annoyed with:
1. Manually centering the template rings (guide bushing) with the centering cone is a PITA. There is to little room to fasten the centering tool properly. And I often change bushing size between routes but like to keep the bit inserted. This is not posible when I have to fit the centering tool between each plate change.
2. Routing depth is often to shallow for me. I keep thinking that "I'll manage this time". But the next time I get annoyed again.
3. The 1010 does some squeek and squeel in many situations. I don't know if it's caused by vibrations in the not-so-massive body or if the motor doesn't have enough force.
Now..
The 2200 seems to be the perfect upgrade due to the above, But it is a pricey beast, so I need to know some more before I go for it.
1. Is this router to big a power consumer to be fed by the CTL26? This would be a major drawback. Is there a solution for this problem?
2. I remember reading a thread about the guide bushings having a litle slop in the fitting. Can someone verify that this is not the case?
3. Anyone else had the 1010 and then bought the 2200? Which router do you use most and why?
4. PC guide bushings seems great. But we don't have them in Europe as far as I know. Do they come in metric sizes? How are they compared to the regular Festool guide plates? It seems like a better idea to use turned/milled bushings than the prssed ones from Festool, precision wise.
5. Should I consider the 1400 as well? The 2200 seems to have superior dust control, but the price...
//Michael