Splinterguard guiderail problem

[Wendan20]

Hello,

I have a TS55 with a guiderail. I use it a lot and I'm very happy with it, but.....

I have a little problem with the splinterguard at the end of the guiderail. It seems that the saw cuts more from the splinterguard at the end of the guiderail then in the middle? My cut is still straight, but the splinterguard is not anymore. It now becomes more difficult to position the rail on my workpiece because the splinterguard is not representative for the cut of the saw anymore. Next to that the chance on splinters is bigger, because there is some space (+/- 1mm) between the splinterguard and the saw.

I was wondering if other users have encountered the same problem? I'm pretty sure that I kept the saw straight on the rail, so I'm looking for what I'm doing wrong....

Grtz,

Daniel

 

[Frank-Jan]

In order for the saw to be guided accurately, both the green knobs in the sawbase (the ones you can adjust to take the play out) should be in contact with the rail. This is why you need some overhang (extra rail) before and after your cut.
If you run your saw off the end of the guiderail, it can twist a bit when the first of the two "gibs" gets past the end of the rail, and this causes the problem you describe. (It's not really a problem, because you need to line up your cut with another part of the guiderail, where the rubber's still intact)

 

[Ken Nagrod]

You might want to first eliminate this as a source of your problem.  Check the straightness of the guide rail along the opposite edge with a known quality straightedge.  I usually use my Stabila levels.

 

[Steve R]

Also it might be something as simple as how you store your rails.  The Splinter guard edge is not one to be banged around or pushed in to bags Splinter guard first.  That is why I like 1400mm rails and the 1400mm bag that holds two...  as it protects the edge. 

If the guard is black (old style) changed it to the newer milky clear ones they stick better but also are moveable.

A good point stated in prior posts is that as the saw comes off the end of the rail you might be twisting the saw and cutting the guard.

Nothing wrong with putting you measure marks in from the ends of the cut and using more of the middle of the rail to line things up.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Daniel,

Certainly some good advice for things to consider by the members here. I just wanted to let you know that we (Festool) are available to help you troubleshoot the issue and, if necessary, help to take the proper steps to offer a resolution. Please feel free to give us a call, number below, and talk to one of our tech guys.

Shane Holland
Festool USA

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I have lost my splinter guards since the weather turned cold.

They just fell off my rails and I don't know where.

So, I am just saying be glad you have a splinter guard.

I think my 55 cuts a fuzz more off at the end of the rail.  I am pretty sure that might be related to the slight bit of blade toe in.

 

[Steve R]

I have lost my splinter guards since the weather turned cold.

They just fell off my rails and I don't know where.

So, I am just saying be glad you have a splinter guard.

I think my 55 cuts a fuzz more off at the end of the rail.  I am pretty sure that might be related to the slight bit of blade toe in.

I have transported rails at -27 degrees (US) and never had an issue.  They were in the Festool cases ...  never had one fall off..  [scared]  at -27 we were more worried about other things falling off... [eek]

Cheers,
Steve

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

My clear one's just fell off.

The black one's were champs in the cold.

 

[mouppe]

Hello,

I have a TS55 with a guiderail. I use it a lot and I'm very happy with it, but.....

I have a little problem with the splinterguard at the end of the guiderail. It seems that the saw cuts more from the splinterguard at the end of the guiderail then in the middle? My cut is still straight, but the splinterguard is not anymore. It now becomes more difficult to position the rail on my workpiece because the splinterguard is not representative for the cut of the saw anymore. Next to that the chance on splinters is bigger, because there is some space (+/- 1mm) between the splinterguard and the saw.

I was wondering if other users have encountered the same problem? I'm pretty sure that I kept the saw straight on the rail, so I'm looking for what I'm doing wrong....

Grtz,

Daniel

Could the problem be the splinterguard itself and not the guide rail or the saw?

If the splinterguard has come loose on parts of the rail, the saw could be pushing it under the rail as you cut, and then springing back afterwards. This may give the impression the saw is cutting more from the splinterguard in some places than in others.

Richard.

 

[Steve R]

My clear one's just fell off.

The black one's were champs in the cold.

Are you sure you didn't say anything to offend them...and they just left the job site out of protest... [doh]

Really how long have you had them? Where they org or replacements for the black ones?

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Wendan20]

Thank you all for the reply's. I think I know what my problem is. When I start sawing I look carefully if my saw is flat on the guiderail. But I don't know if it's exact in line with the guiderail when one of the green knobs is not in contact with the rail. This must be it!! Because when the saw moves a little bit horizontally it takes some off the splinterguard.

learned something tonight.

Greetings,

Daniel