Split Top Roubo Bench Build

What speed do you have the saw set at? How well does the saw move on the track when not cutting? Could the adjustment grubs on the saw be too tight and not allow it to move smoothly on the track?
 
Tim Raleigh said:
tjbnwi said:
I put a router bit in backwards once, anything can happen.

How is that even possible?
Tim

I've done it.  [unsure]

With the Sommerfeld slot cutter router bit set.      [embarassed]

Eric
 
erock said:
Tim Raleigh said:
tjbnwi said:
I put a router bit in backwards once, anything can happen.

How is that even possible?
Tim

I've done it.  [unsure]

With the Sommerfeld slot cutter router bit set.      [embarassed]

Eric

So you flipped the cutter over as you assembled it.

Tom
 
Runhard said:
What speed do you have the saw set at? How well does the saw move on the track when not cutting? Could the adjustment grubs on the saw be too tight and not allow it to move smoothly on the track?

6
glides smooth as silk
grubs are perfect. No wiggle
 
All clean....  going to rip a stick

[attachimg=1]
 

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Clean blade, tight arbor.
No difference in performance.  I kept the sound level high so you can hear the motor.

 
Order another blade. Send this one out to be sharpened. Saw sounds fine under that load.

Tom
 
[size=14pt]
Hi iamnothim

Reading your two posts with great interest and certainly admiring your work.

I have just come up from the Untidy Shop where I have been cutting sheet Hoop Pine. I too, have to join rails. As per other posts on the FOG, I leave a 2-3mm gap at the rail join as the ends are not necessarily 90 degrees to the cutting edge. This allows the rails to move when being checked with a straight edge prior to tightening the joining rod screws.

Reading Reply Number 15, I noted that you have left little or no gap. Could incorrect alignment between the rails be contributing to your problems here?

I just took some photographs to illustrate -

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

Looking fwd to your continued reports.

[member=28483]iamnothim[/member]
 

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Untidy Shop said:
[size=14pt]
Hi iamnothim

Reading your two posts with great interest and certainly admiring your work.

I have just come up from the Untidy Shop where I have been cutting sheet Hoop Pine. I too, have to join rails. As per other posts on the FOG, I leave a 2-3mm gap at the rail join as the ends are not necessarily 90 degrees to the cutting edge. This allows the rails to move when being checked with a straight edge prior to tightening the joining rod screws.

Reading Reply Number 15, I noted that you have left little or no gap. Could incorrect alignment between the rails be contributing to your problems here?
[member=28483]iamnothim[/member]

Tidy,
Thank you very much for the guide rail tips and photos.  I had no idea. After looking at it, it makes sense to separate the two rails.
I don't think it will help my TS75 performance but is should improve the accuracy of my straight line cuts.
I will give it a try.
Luke
 
Jeff Zanin said:
waho6o9 said:
I vote for the Festool  Panther blade for ripping.

[smile]

This.

Panther will probably happen.
Right now my TS75 EQ is on it's way to Lebanon IN (Festool USA) to be checked out.

I was kinda expecting it to perform like my 15 year old, PC.  Although it has a 15 year old 20 tooth blade.  Actually 16   18 tooth.... really 14 because 4 are broken off.

I will know when it returns.



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iamnothim said:
Jeff Zanin said:
waho6o9 said:
I vote for the Festool  Panther blade for ripping.

[smile]

This.

Panther will probably happen.
Right now my TS75 EQ is on it's way to Lebanon IN (Festool USA) to be checked out.

I was kinda expecting it to perform like my 15 year old, PC.  Although it has a 15 year old 20 tooth blade.  Actually 16   18 tooth.... really 14 because 4 are broken off.

I will know when it returns.



[attachimg=1]


I have that same PC saw (the 743), absolutely love it!

Mine was slightly damaged in Sandy, there is some corrosion on the magnesium base & it was one of those tools I never wanted to be without so tried to find a replacement but they are no longer made. I looked on eBay, there were a couple used ones in so-so condition, and they wanted like $250 for them!

Bottom line is I hope mine never dies, and if I ever get a chance to pick up a spare at a decent cost I will grab it.

Good luck with the 75, motor definitely does not sound right on your video.

RMW
 
Once I got my second TS 55 (actually ATF 55 & TS55EQ) saw, i decided to give my ancient Milwaukee 7-1/2" circular saw to my son.  I am doing a couple of projects where I need tomove outside and i am wishing i had kept the saw.  For carpentry jobs where i do not need dead-on .000 accuracy, it is so much quicker to just bring that Milwaukee and a 1/6 straight edge out to a couple of horse than to make a couple of trips with my saw and rails that i probably will need to join together for full length rip cuts.
Tinker
 
Another couple of takes on a Ruobo, these ones with wooden screws and threads.

Billy shows himself doing a little work on his twin slabs, with hand tools. 

He's not drinking Arrogant Bastard ale while working, or maybe just not showing it.  I like this guy.

And then there is David Barron, also using wooden vise parts, but in his case, he bought the tap and die and made his own.  Nice leg-to-top joinery.    Gotta say I enjoy listening to a Brit talk woodworking.

But back to metal hardware on this one.  Surfer Aussie Jord takes us through his whole build in which he uses spruce 2x4s and 2x6s for all the stock, and relatively inexpensive screws for his vises.  Here is part 1. 

Listening to "Strine," or English spoken by an Australian, is like opening a time capsule.  Established as a British penal colony about a hundred years ago, its "settlers" were those transported there, and their guards.  No Mayfair posh accents at all.  The Aussie accent today is probably the way most all Brits spoke then.
 
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