SYS3 Bins - 3D Files for printing your own

[simnick]

Having fun printing these and other things on my new printer, and just started learning Fusion based on your recommendation.
Any reason why you streamlined the sides, but did not make the bottom simpler? Given that you need to print supports anyways, why not build them into the design? The 25*100 bins would be a lot more stable if more of the wall went all the way to the bottom.
The Boat/Tanos/Festool design is optimized for least plastic when injection molding, but for FDM printing, I think it might want to look a bit different.
Once I make some more progress with F360 I'll give my idea a try, but I'd think it should look more like the negative of the floor puzzle.
Also, you could make the bases wider for a tiny bit more capacity.

I am pretty sure Tanos engineers did not look at "minimum material" even for a minute. Not at the prices they sell these things.

They most likely looked at an optimal combination maximum usability/practicality and maximum space efficiency. In that order. Once they had the shape to provide those, the thickness of the walls was a question of good durability at acceptable weight.
If Tanos is known for anything, it is they do not choose shapes that are easy to mold. They specialize in "crazily" complicated molds to provide otherwise unavailable capabilities at premium prices.

To the topic.
Pure vertical boxes are a PITA to insert as you must fit them exactly into the hole and cannot take advantage of the self-guiding property of a tapered shape.

If you want to increase usable volume, you may try to create a vertical "colar" up to 1/2 the height or so and taper only the bottom. But one thing you do not want for practical use is a pure vertical shape bottom-to-top.

I'm pretty sure Bott designed them, but I wasn't implying they were cheap. They were likely looking for the best strength to weight to functionality balance, within the constraints of injection molding, which is very different than FDM/3d printing. They didn't find that adding more to the base helped for their design criteria.

BK Makes has added new sizes, including half sizes, to the Bott design. The foot design originally was designed for minimum of 50mm. I'm suggesting that the foot design might be different when there are 25mm sized containers, and when you need to print supports anyways.

 

[Cheese]

Maybe this will help Seth...

Outside dimensions:
From the top wall to the flat bottom of the container is 64 mm.

[attachimg=1]

From the top wall to the bottom of the feet on the container is 68 mm.

[attachimg=2]

Inside dimensions:
The inside of the container has a blended radius that connects the side to the bottom. Thus there are 2 inside height dimensions.

[attachimg=3]

[attachimg=4]

From the top wall to the beginning of the radius is 59 mm.

[attachimg=5]

From the top wall to the bottom of the radius is 61.5 mm. Forgot to take a photo [doh]

 

[Bob D.]

"....Pure vertical boxes are a PITA to insert...."

Vertical sides on a molded piece are more difficult and costly to manufacture.

The slope of the sides of the bins makes releasing them from the mold much easier.

 

[semenza]

Thanks for the bin measuring.  [thumbs up]

Seth

 

[Cheese]

Vertical sides on a molded piece are more difficult and costly to manufacture.

By a factor of 3 or more times because a collapsible force and an expanding cavity is necessary to eject the part.

 

[Enormicon]

Having fun printing these and other things on my new printer, and just started learning Fusion based on your recommendation.
Any reason why you streamlined the sides, but did not make the bottom simpler? Given that you need to print supports anyways, why not build them into the design? The 25*100 bins would be a lot more stable if more of the wall went all the way to the bottom.
The Boat/Tanos/Festool design is optimized for least plastic when injection molding, but for FDM printing, I think it might want to look a bit different.
Once I make some more progress with F360 I'll give my idea a try, but I'd think it should look more like the negative of the floor puzzle.
Also, you could make the bases wider for a tiny bit more capacity.

That is awesome!  ...the primary reason I didn't mess with the base was because I wanted them to continue working just as the original Bott ones did. There's definitely room for improvement there on the FDM front; going straight down to the base, but leaving the "cutouts" for when it straddles the 50mm "dividers" would likely work. A negative of the floor puzzle is also a fantastic idea!

 

[Enormicon]

Hey [member=70011]edwarmr[/member] ! So I had all the 83.3 bins printed and was filming for the ol' YouTubes when I noticed that the SYS3 lid won't close, as the top edges no longer line up with the "squares" molded into the lids. Doh!!

The short edges fit fine, and retaining the height of them will keep the bins in place better when the lid is closed, but reducing the height of the long edges will slightly limit their functionality a bit (as tiny washers would "leak" into their adjacent bins). This shouldn't be a problem for domino's, but just a heads up that I'll tweak the files and replace them.

Cracking some eggs on the way to making this omelette! ;D

 

[edwarmr]

Hey [member=70011]edwarmr[/member] ! So I had all the 83.3 bins printed and was filming for the ol' YouTubes when I noticed that the SYS3 lid won't close, as the top edges no longer line up with the "squares" molded into the lids. Doh!!

The short edges fit fine, and retaining the height of them will keep the bins in place better when the lid is closed, but reducing the height of the long edges will slightly limit their functionality a bit (as tiny washers would "leak" into their adjacent bins). This shouldn't be a problem for domino's, but just a heads up that I'll tweak the files and replace them.

Cracking some eggs on the way to making this omelette! ;D

Sorry you had to go through all that to find that problem. I tried describing that in my initial posts when I mentioned notching out the inside edges but I don’t think I described it well. Thanks for all your work on that! It’s because the number of squares in the Sys 3 Org is not an even number so it’s not divisible by three and the inside edges of the bins fall right on the grid squares. I’m guessing reducing the height of the inside edges by 1/8” would be sufficient. The outside edges can remain full height as they don’t interfere with the grid work.

 

[edwarmr]

... It’s because the number of squares in the Sys 3 Org is not an even number so it’s not divisible by three ...

Guess you got too excited about "even" and "dividing" being related there ...


End of day, this is the CAM world.
Pulling out a caliper and marking where notches are needed is par for the course.

Yeah my reply didn't make too much sense there lol.

What I meant was the grid is 5x7 containers when using 50x50mm containers. Neither dimension is divisible by three so the interior edges of the bins fall in the gridwork of the lid. The "even" part doesn't apply to this situation, my bad  :-[

 

[Enormicon]

No fault of your own! That's all on me... The new corrected 83.3xbins are uploaded in their prior spot. Have one on the printer now..

..also toyed around with a super no-frills bin version, that likely stands/supports itself a lot better than the existing Bott bins, with less side-to-side play. I'll print one out too.. The Streamliners still work well, just curious how much better this version would be.

 

[Enormicon]

Just a heads up if anyone is planning to design/make their own bins in a different style (this doesn't impact any of the prior Streamliner bins I've posted, which use similar "feet" to the Bott bins).

I printed a copy of the No Frills bins above to try it out. It has tighter tolerances, sharp squared edges and a different footprint than the Bott bins to provide more stability, reduce slop and side-to-side movement and they work great; BUT only when used away from the perimeter of the SYS3.. I've now noticed (and measured to confirm) that the entire perimeter of the SYS3 Org "squares" are not square. The inner edges are 1mm smaller.

Cheers!
BK

 

[Enormicon]

Thank-you to everyone for the feedback and great ideas! I really, really, appreciate it.
I'll keep you posted on any new ones that come up. Hoping to kit out the new workshop when I get my house sold and also want to 3D print a custom Systainer insert to convert one into an audio/visual battery and power hub (among other, hopefully cool projects).

Here's the video that came out of this if anyone's interested 
BK MAKES: 3D Printed Bins for a Festool SYS3 Organizer

 

[Kerndrup]

Here's my attempt at the rails. These definitely won't fit on my printer, but I'll slice them in half (and glue them) and give them a try tomorrow. Festool uses glass reinforced PolyMide (nylon) for their rails, so I'd suggest something stronger than PLA if you're 3D printing them.
Cheers!

SYS3 Rails .STL File

Notes: The SYS3-SN/4 rails are embossed with width dimensions for mounting. Inner carcass width for the "M" size is 418mm (16-29/64in), the "L" is 530mm (20-55/64in) and they recommend a 13mm (33/64in) gap from the top and bottom of any rack or cabinet you're installing them in.
[attachimg=1]

Hi BK. If you send the fusion 3D files i can try to make them fit on the printplate in two parts and maby make the "click" together when finished?

 

[Lime green]

Can you tell me what settings you are using in Cura?  I printed one of the 50x50 bins and everything looks fine except the bottom is all frayed.

 

[GarryMartin]

Can you tell me what settings you are using in Cura?  I printed one of the 50x50 bins and everything looks fine except the bottom is all frayed.

It looks like you didn't use supports on the plate. Settings were discussed inhttps://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...es-for-printing-your-own/msg634782/#msg634782

(BTW, only one of your attached photos worked; the other three are zero bytes in length)

 

[Lime green]

Can you tell me what settings you are using in Cura?  I printed one of the 50x50 bins and everything looks fine except the bottom is all frayed.

It looks like you didn't use supports on the plate. Settings were discussed inhttps://www.festoolownersgroup.com/...es-for-printing-your-own/msg634782/#msg634782

(BTW, only one of your attached photos worked; the other three are zero bytes in length)

I used supports this time but when I chose the normal support option it broke a piece of the bin of when attempting to remove it.  I then printed the bin with the tree support option and it came out okay but it still looks a bit rough on the bottom.  I don't have the honeycomb option so I choose zigzag.  I'm using and Ender 3 so my options are a bit different.

 

[GarryMartin]

Here's my attempt at the rails. These definitely won't fit on my printer, but I'll slice them in half (and glue them) and give them a try tomorrow. Festool uses glass reinforced PolyMide (nylon) for their rails, so I'd suggest something stronger than PLA if you're 3D printing them.
Cheers!

SYS3 Rails .STL File

Notes: The SYS3-SN/4 rails are embossed with width dimensions for mounting. Inner carcass width for the "M" size is 418mm (16-29/64in), the "L" is 530mm (20-55/64in) and they recommend a 13mm (33/64in) gap from the top and bottom of any rack or cabinet you're installing them in.
[attachimg=1]

Hi [member=69800]BK Makes[/member] - did you print your rails? Or has anyone else printed them? I've printed the first half of one rail and it doesn't seem to work to capture the Systainer - the dimensions look like they may be slightly off in the model...

Is it just me? Did these work for anyone else?

 

[Enormicon]

Hi!
I have not printed the rails yet, but should be able to in a couple weeks (my printers and PLA are boxed up still, post-move).
The Fusion file is attached in the link below if you'd like to manipulate it yourself. I couldn't see anything obvious comparing it to the store bought version.
Cheers,
BK
Fusion 360 File of the Rails

 

[clintlub]

Hi.

I just printed it and it fits on a Creality Ender 5 Plus (diagonally).
The only issue is that the front tab is 5mm too long. I managed to cut it off and it works perfectly.
Thanks so much for the file.

Hopefully it can be modified.

 

[GarryMartin]

For those that may be interested, there is another version including a model and print files available athttps://www.printables.com/model/245891-festool-rails-for-systainer3

I've printed these and they work fine.