Sysport build

[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] - have you considered Pocket Screws from the inside rather than having the exposed Confirmat heads on the outside? I thought I saw pocket screw holes in one of your images? Are your cases for fixed installation or carts with wheelos?
One source for Confimrat screws and drills is 
www.mcfeelys.com

the 5x10 EURO Mounting screws for drawer slides go well with LR-32 drilled hole patterns.
Use only CONFIRMAT special purpose drill bits and holders. There are enough challenges without intentionally creatin additional ones by using something that "works OK" but is not specifically made for these engineered fastener systems.

Hans
 
TSO_Products said:
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] - have you considered Pocket Screws from the inside rather than having the exposed Confirmat heads on the outside? I thought I saw pocket screw holes in one of your images? Are your cases for fixed installation or carts with wheelos?
One source for Confimrat screws and drills is 
www.mcfeelys.com

the 5x10 EURO Mounting screws for drawer slides go well with LR-32 drilled hole patterns.
Use only CONFIRMAT special purpose drill bits and holders. There are enough challenges without intentionally creatin additional ones by using something that "works OK" but is not specifically made for these engineered fastener systems.

Hans
Click to expand...

Hans,

I can certainly use pocket holes. I was concerned about their holding power in particle board. If I use Confirmat I will get those plugs or covers. This will be on wheels, but not moved often.
 
Hans,

I can certainly use pocket holes. I was concerned about their holding power in particle board. If I use Confirmat I will get those plugs or covers. This will be on wheels, but not moved often.
Click to expand...

Speaking only for myself, I prefer dominoes for alignment and joint strength, but use pocket screws to hold things together (clamping) as the glue dries.  I look at Confirmat screws as something to be used in assemblies that will eventually be broken down for transport or storage. 
 
I'm probably just going to use coarse pocket screws on the back and gorilla glue on the joints. .because it's what I have here and it'll be hidden. Still need to do some edge banding.
 
I was avoiding doing the edgebanding because it was the exact width 0.75" as the Melamine. .but it turned out as best as I could hope. Just took my time and used some edge banding clamps.

i-sLcBWqq-L.jpg


i-SZbMm8G-L.jpg


Used the kreg jig again on the back panel. I like this setup on the MFT. I clamp the jig down to the table and have two support blocks with 3/4" dowels to sit in the 20mm holes. The Bluetooth remote for the CT vac is great here. Turn it on, drill, turn it off, move the board and re-clamp and repeat. No muss no fuss and no mess to clean up, either.
i-T5B7xQT-L.jpg


It's all clamped up now. I need to improve my workflow a bit but most of it is that all my stuff is in boxes still. I think I'll be building a few more cabinets after this. I also only have the one Sys-AZ drawer. I need about 10 more. [member=101]Festool USA[/member] want to donate to a good cause?  ::)
 
Time to wrap this up with some closing thoughts.

Using pocket holes on particle board is really fussy. Everything has to be clamped just so and the settings perfect or the parts shift and screws exit through the mating piece. Which happened to me and ruined the edge banding on the back.

The full size back is really overkill here so I redid it with my original stretchers plan which are about 100mm x 427mm each. Used parallel clamps to hold the stretchers flush during the pocket screw driving which seemed to work out a lot better.

I'm pretty satisfied with the result:

i-KT56zVj-L.jpg


The back of the sides and top/bottom got messed up from the first go around driving the pocket screws, probably tack a 1/4" panel to clean it up. Just need to decide on some casters and finish building the second sysport.
 
Turned out excellent. Stretchers look solid.  Now we need pics of it filled up  [smile]
 
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]  - nice looking cabinet and thanks for sharing your comments/experience with particle board and Pocket Screws.

For the caster source, look on the preview DRAFT of the new TSO SYSTAINER Cart Plans I emailed you Saturday. Email us back your feedback on our plans. We have all the pieces cut and dry-fit to validate our design and will install hardware and casters this week along with a SYS-AZ.

Hans

 
Dick Mahany said:
Turned out excellent. Stretchers look solid.  Now we need pics of it filled up  [smile]
Click to expand...

[member=59951]Dick Mahany[/member] I spent all my money on tools so I can't afford to buy the drawers to store them  [big grin]
 
TSO_Products said:
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]  - nice looking cabinet and thanks for sharing your comments/experience with particle board and Pocket Screws.

For the caster source, look on the preview DRAFT of the new TSO SYSTAINER Cart Plans I emailed you Saturday. Email us back your feedback on our plans. We have all the pieces cut and dry-fit to validate our design and will install hardware and casters this week along with a SYS-AZ.

Hans
Click to expand...

[member=59331]TSO Products[/member] You've got mail!
 
I finished up #2 and it was smooth sailing this time now that I knew what to look out for. I ran through all the same domino operations at once for the sides and top/bottom to reduce error, clamped the stretchers up flush before driving pocket screws. It went together lickity split compared to the first and it's dead on square measured corner to corner.

I want to attach a 1/4" melamine back panel to each to hide the exposed particle board and add some rigidity. I can't seem to find any locally at least from the box stores. Any tips?

i-RjCqmkb-L.jpg
 
Kreg makes a plug cutter so you can make your own matching plugs from scrap of the same material.
 
Welp thanks (or no thanks?) to eBay and their sales they keep running. .the shop got a little more organized. Here's the current state:

The ports received 1/8" tempered hardboard backs and are attached to studs for stability. Casters just didn't work out even with threaded inserts designed for the task. The left one accommodates (1) Sys4, (3) Sys2, and (1) Sys1. Right is (1) Sys4, (1) Sys2, (2) Sys1, and a drawer on top that's currently holding all my dog accessories, but it will fit a Sys2 and possibly a Sys3.
i-rLMmXVL-L.jpg


Here you can see my first failed attempted at the sysport using China-ply, now repurposed as a shelf, and pegboard that I hung. The worktable is a Multifunctionslab I built using the pegboard jig a while back that a member here sells to create the grid. The bottom shelf was made later using the LR32 and those holes are on 96mm centers and perfectly square. Should I ever need to bang out another top I'll use it and a flush trim bit:
i-gSrp2vd-L.jpg


And finally the triple MFT setup. I'm going to use the second fence for precise offcuts. Just waiting on some Starrett tape from Amazon:

i-HhkVwLR-L.jpg
 
On your shelf pin holes, how did you start the first hole 8mm from the bottom? I just bought the LR32 kit and I'm trying to figure out how to use it. I see if I set the end stops at 16 and out, it puts the first hole at 16mm, not 8. [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member], maybe you can explain this as the rest of the build was well documented.

Thanks in advance!
 
Jason Hagen said:
On your shelf pin holes, how did you start the first hole 8mm from the bottom? I just bought the LR32 kit and I'm trying to figure out how to use it. I see if I set the end stops at 16 and out, it puts the first hole at 16mm, not 8. [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member], maybe you can explain this as the rest of the build was well documented.

Thanks in advance!
Click to expand...

I believe that the LR32 system will get you holes 32mm on center.  [member=65062]DynaGlide[/member] mentioned that he went with 16mm on center, and based on that, it appears that the holes are as far from the edge as they are apart, which means they should be 16mm from the edge as well.

I may be wrong, I wasn't in the FOG 3 years ago when Matt posted this, hopefully he remembers and can clarify.
 
[member=73418]Jason Hagen[/member] They start at 16mm. Where did you see 8mm?
 
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