T 15+3 Initial impressions

[Hastings]

The local Festool dealer allowed me to try out the new Li-Ion drill/driver. It's a little heavier than its smaller sister but still very easy to use. This is my first experience with a Festool driver and it feels like a dream compared to my old cheapie drill.

Before this trial, I might have thought that some $550 was a bit steep for a drill but I can quite see it makes sense. I used it to attach some wall cabinets and the quick change bit made it much easier.

It's going to hurt to have to return this puppy!

Hastings

 

[longwood89]

I have only used my T 15+3 for a few small jobs so far, but it has done great.  I find myself searching the house for reasons to pull it out.  I wish I had it a year ago.

 

[Joe Jensen]

I got a chance to play with the the T15+3 at Woodcraft today.  I don't own a Festool drill as I have always been waiting for a Lion T handle version of the C12.  I only played with the T15+3.  It's physically about the same size as my Panasonic 15.6V NiMH but lighter.  I didn't realize that when in drilling mode (electronic clutch locked up) it spins the motor full speed, and when in screw driving mode it runs much slower.  It's almost like gearbox speed high in driving is the speed of drilling in gearbox speed low.  Seems like a great idea.  The electronic clutch is just like the Panasonic, great.  Of course all you Festool owners know the utility of the alternate chucks, but I was very impressed by the quality of the keyless chuck.  It's as smooth and precise as the Jacobs ball bearing drill press chuck I have.

But, I'm still disappointed with the proprietary hex bit system and the unavailability of fractional drill bits,  I can almost rationalize all the bits being 3X-4X more expensive, but  the others missing makes the special chucks much much less useful IMHO

 

[Meatplow]

My local Festool dealer (NEUS Hardware Menominee Falls, WI an outstanding hardware store) has their summer sale Friday May 1st, this also happens to be the first day the 15+3 can be sold. He showed it to me and like all other Festools my first impression was very, very, nice; two batteries, three chuck styles, a new style Systainer, and for limited time only another small Systainer. Now, I like Festool, however I also like other quality tools, I have a 20 year old Milwaukee corded drill that I would put up against any drill on the market, even today. That being said, my "stable" of Festools has been growing and I could use a cordless drill. So, here goes. Are the "guts" of he 15+3 all steel, bearings or bushings, the HILTI SFH 151 and 181 has all steel gears are and is also a hammer drill, like any option you wonder how you lived without it, and I guarantee I would use at some point. Milwaukee makes excellent products however I know about as much a Milwaukee cordless as the new 15+3 can anyone advise me here. I have always been happy with Hitchi products and am also willing to look at a Panasonic cordless. I will, in all likelihood end up with the 15+3, I double dog dare anyone to talk me out i it...or into another, should I post this on the HILTI site?

Please and Thanks

Meatplow

 

[tbellemare]

Any one in the U.S. that tries to talk you out of a Festool Li-ion drill is almost assuredly uninformed. They haven't been sold to the public yet, only to dealers... 

Tom

 

[Joe Jensen]

Meatplow, I have used Panasonic cordless drills and impact drivers for years.  They are nowhere near the quality of the Festool T15+3 I played with at my dealer.  I am a hobbiest who takes extremely good care of my tools.  The Panasonic 15.6V driver/drill chuck stuck within a couple months of light weekend usage.  The Lion batteries lost their charge on the shelf very quickly too.  I would not say the Panasonic is build for hard daily use.  The Panasonic impact driver is really really nice, but it's batteries too lost charge after just one week sitting in the shop.  I recently bought new batteries for both and the new ones seem very good.  Other than the chuck on the drill crapping out twice in 5 years, they have great power to weight, and nice features.

But, they are nothing compared to the T15+3 I played with on Sat.

I would have ordered it already if;
1) Festool offered fractional drill bits and roberston driver bits in their proprietary hex system.
or
2) Festool used the standard APEX system for hex bits.

As it stands, I would have to buy a couple hundred dollars for Festool bits to make full use of the cool Festool chucks.  Plus, I have switched completely to robertson head screws from McFeelies and now I'd have to switch to torx.  Grrrr :'( :'( :'( :'(

For example, a 6" magnetic tip bit extender from Festool is $26.50 and the same thing from McFeelies is $2.99

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

I would like to remind everyone that the T+3 comes with a magnetic bit holder that inserts into the Centrotec chuck and is compatible with standard hex bits.  Here's a link to the bit holder which can also be purchased separately (but is included with the T+3).

Centrotec BH 60 Magnetic Bit Holder

You can see it being used in the drill in these photos on the T+3 micro website which has the most complete information about this revolutionary new cordless drill:

T+3 Image #1
T+3 Image #2
T+3 Image #3
T+3 Image #4

T+3 Micro Website (video, features, specs, images, scope of delivery, etc.)

 

[Brice Burrell]

There are plenty of fast change systems for hex bits out there so you don't need to use Festool's system.

 

[Joe Jensen]

I would like to remind everyone that the T+3 comes with a magnetic bit holder that inserts into the Centrotec chuck and is compatible with standard hex bits.  Here's a link to the bit holder which can also be purchased separately (but is included with the T+3).

Centrotec BH 60 Magnetic Bit Holder

You can see it being used in the drill in these photos on the T+3 micro website which has the most complete information about this revolutionary new cordless drill:

T+3 Image #1
T+3 Image #2
T+3 Image #3
T+3 Image #4

T+3 Micro Website (video, features, specs, images, scope of delivery, etc.)

Yes, BUT the magnetic hold is inferior to the festool and APEX systems in that the bit can easily stick in the fastener and pull out of the holder. I stopped using magnetic bit holders and wire detent bits years ago. Plus, using the holder extends the length of the tool resticting it's close quarters usage.  If you want to sell drill kits with proprietary bit holders you should at least support current popular driver bits.  The ommision of square head drive is short sighted.  Also, how about a bit holder that supports APEX locking style bits so when I need a Bit that festool has not chosen to sell, I can at least have it locked onto the drill.

 

[tbellemare]

Joe:

This adapter, 492648, holds drive bits securely.

It's ironic that this thread is running because I am in the middle of a guide to the Festool drills, chucks, and bits. The bits below with arrows are gripped for positive extraction by the bit adapter listed above (it's the bottom one in the last image below).

[attachthumb=#1]

All of the above bits will work with either the keyless Jacobs style chuck or the Festool adapters, or can be inserted directly into the output shaft of the drills.

[attachthumb=#2]

I should be done with the guide later today.

Tom

 

[Frank-Jan]

Tom, it will hold this style bits aswell. 

(I was a bit dissapointed that that bitholder didn't come with the centrotec '08 systainer, while there were 2 of the regular magnetic ones that leave the bit in the screwhead way too often (and one came with the drill already))

 

[tbellemare]

Thanks, Fran-Jan!

I don't have any of those bits so I didn't think of it. I'll be sure to add them to the guide...

Tom

 

[Joe Jensen]

Joe:

This adapter, 492648, holds drive bits securely.

It's ironic that this thread is running because I am in the middle of a guide to the Festool drills, chucks, and bits. The bits below with arrows are gripped for positive extraction by the bit adapter listed above (it's the bottom one in the last image below).

[attachthumb=#1]

All of the above bits will work with either the keyless Jacobs style chuck or the Festool adapters, or can be inserted directly into the output shaft of the drills.

[attachthumb=#2]

I should be done with the guide later today.

Tom

Thanks Tom.  I guess I drank some more coolaid as I ordered the drill kit today.  I still think that one of the major value propositions of this drill is the Centrotec chuck and the abiliy to get the drill into some very small spaces.  From what I can see I can only do that with Centroec bits (shortest length) and they only come in Philips, Posidrive, and Torx.  Also, I'd love to see Centrotec nut drivers in fractional sizes, as well as Centrotec shank drill bits in fractional sizes.  I still think that at this price point Festool should have a wider range of bits.  It's not like the bits don't have enough margin (gross profit) dollars in them.

But as I said, I bought the kit despite these limitations.

 

[nclemmons]

The hex size will fit, but the corners have to be rounded off a bit and a detent added.  I've seen some posts of Festool Centrotec users who took standard hex bits and ground or tuned the hex corners slightly and ground or turned a detent in non-Festool standard hex bits to adapt them the Centrotec.  Not sure if they were on FOG or perhaps on Sawmill Creek.

Yeah, a lot of trouble but an alternative if you have a lathe or a bit of time.  I know Frank Pellow has been outspoken on a desire for Robertson square drive bits.

In fact, I wonder if Qwas has considered offering these along with his MFT dogs as an aftermarket Festool accessory.

neil

 

[tbellemare]

Standard, 1/4" hex drive bits fit the output shaft of the drill and are the shortest possible stack up.

EXCEPT if you use the right angle chuck! Then you can get in REALLY tight spots with the same 1/4" hex bits. The same bits fit the eccentric chuck.

Standard drive bits and Festool's short drive bits are not meant to be used with the Centrotec chuck. Centrotec bits have a deeper hex and engage in the output shaft of the drill, which is standard 1/4" hex.

Here's a Guide to the Festool Drill Accessories. It isn't complete yet but explains what has come up here pretty well.

I will add more detail about the Depth-Stop Chuck and accessories not yet mentioned soon.

Tom

 

[AlexThePalex]

I don't see what all the fuzz is about. If you need to be in a tight space you can put a standard 1/4'' hex bit directly in the output shaft of the drill without even using any chuck. If you're not in a tight space (and I think most people have all the space they need 95% of the time) then you can use a standard hex chuck in the fastfix keyless chuck to have the same functionality as any other drill on the market. The Centrotec system is just a little extra.

 

[Mirboo]

I bought a T15+3 a few weeks ago. They've been out in Australia for a while now. It is a great little unit.

I bought the drill mainly to use for cabinet making but I'm currently working on a project that requires me to drive quite a few 14g screws into pine. I'm pre-drilling a clearance hole into one of the pieces of pine to be joined but letting the screw drill it's own hole into the other piece of wood. The screws I'm using are 75mm and 100mm long (3-inch and 4-inch respectively). The T15+3 handles these large screws quite well.

 

[Dan Clermont]

I gotta say how impressed I am with this drill.

Right now we are replacing the south fence on our property and are screwing all the posts, supports and privacy panels in place. Screws range in length from 1 3/8" to 6". I think we are up around 280 screws and we are still on the first battery with no signs of weakness.

I am used to the C12 style drill and at first found the T15 a bit clumsy. Much like the first time you try the KAPEX and the vertical handle but after 5 minutes I was reaching for the T15.

Still like the narrowness of the C12 though for tight spots.

Anybody have a fence I can continue testing this drill on for battery life? I am cheap labour when the right kind of food and drink are available

Dan Clermont