The MFK 700 EQ, edge trimming router.

[Brice Burrell]

  I've started my review of the MFK700. I don't have much done at this point, but I wanted to start the thread/discussion now, that way I can have input from you guys as to what you'd like to see in the review. So feel free to ask questions and/or make suggestions, after all, I'm doing this for all of you.

  Before we get started I'd like to talk a little about what is review isn't going to covered in detail, that's the cost of the tool and its "perceived value". I may talk about what makes this tool valuable to me, I'm not going to make an attempt to "sell" anyone this tool or try convince you this tool is "Easier, Faster, Smarter" than the competition's offerings. I will try to focus on the tool's unique features and capabilities, then let you decide if the MFK will be of value to your work. One last thing I'd like to say before we go any farther, as most of you already know I am a huge Festool fan. This review will not be completely unbiased, I've bought into the Festool "system", in that regard, I tend to favor tools that fit into that "system". If you feel I'm too biased in this review, call me on it, we will discuss it.

From those of you considering the MFK, I hope you feel this review is helpful. Enjoy.

       
The Festool MFK 700 EQ, edge trimming just got a whole lot easier, by Brice Burrell

The MFK's horizontal and vertical bases make this a versatile tool, and not just for edge trimming. With the edge guide and a couple of shop made attachments this tool really becomes versatile. From dovetail joints to mortises, this little router is going to be a workhorse in my shop.....

I like to start off by showing "what's in the box" or in Festool's case, in the Systainer. Here it is, all packed in neatly.

The card attached to the lid of the Systainer is something we are familiar with, I for never paid much attention to it. But take a closer look at the lower right corner........

If you have ever struggled to get the tool, its parts, cord and of the accessories back in, good news. Festool has finally decided to add a picture of all the "stuff" properly placed in the Systainer, thank you Festool.

Before we leave the subject of the Systainer, there is one more thing to point out. The clever engineers at Festool designed the insert to fit the horizontal base or the vertical base, so it doesn?t matter what base you have on the motor it will fit into the Systainer. In this picture the horizontal base is fitted to the motor(also in the Systainer is the edge guide). In the first picture on the page the vertical base is installed.

[attachimg=#]
You've seen it in the Systainer, so here's a shot of it out. The US version of the MFK 700 EQ includes: motor, vertical base, chip deflector for the vertical base, 1.5 degree horizontal base, vacuum attachment for the horizontal base, sensor bearing, allen key for the sensor bearing, 1/4" collet, 8 mm collet, collet wrench, Plug-It cord, instruction manual all packed into a Systainer #2.

Text and pictures, copyright 2008, Brice Burrell

 

[tvgordon]

OK Brice, I have a question about the MFK 700.

Can the router be used to trim off through dowels or Dominos flush to the surface?  I'm guessing one would use the horizontal base and maybe a spiral bit?  Right now I either cut the Domino off close with a handsaw then sand it flush or I use a Ryobi trim router with a homemade base.  The router takes a while to change the base and sometimes chips a little off the Domino or I'll accidentally tip it and have to sand out the gouge.   

If this router would work, what is the maximum distance the dowel could be in from the edge?

Thanks Brice,

Tom.

 

[Brice Burrell]

OK Brice, I have a question about the MFK 700.

Can the router be used to trim off through dowels or Dominos flush to the surface?  I'm guessing one would use the horizontal base and maybe a spiral bit?  Right now I either cut the Domino off close with a handsaw then sand it flush or I use a Ryobi trim router with a homemade base.  The router takes a while to change the base and sometimes chips a little off the Domino or I'll accidentally tip it and have to sand out the gouge.   

If this router would work, what is the maximum distance the dowel could be in from the edge?

Thanks Brice,

Tom.

Tom, good question. I'd say if you had the 0 degree horizontal base and the domino/dowel were close to the edge of the work piece, then yes. I can't say for certain, because I don't have the 0 degree base. BTW, the 0 degree base isn't part of the set, its an accessory, sold separately. I'll look into this and get some shots to provide a better explanation when time allows.

 

[Michael Kellough]

OK Brice, I have a question about the MFK 700.

Can the router be used to trim off through dowels or Dominos flush to the surface?  I'm guessing one would use the horizontal base and maybe a spiral bit?  Right now I either cut the Domino off close with a handsaw then sand it flush or I use a Ryobi trim router with a homemade base.  The router takes a while to change the base and sometimes chips a little off the Domino or I'll accidentally tip it and have to sand out the gouge.   

If this router would work, what is the maximum distance the dowel could be in from the edge?

Thanks Brice,

Tom.

Tom, good question. I'd say if you had the 0 degree horizontal base and the domino/dowel were close to the edge of the work piece, then yes. I can't say for certain, because I don't have the 0 degree base. BTW, the 0 degree base isn't part of the set, its an accessory, sold separately. I'll look into this and get some shots to provide a better explanation when time allows.

Nice start Brice, keep it up when you have the time.

On the dowel trimming question, could you use the regular vertical base by tipping the router over so the stub is"inside" with the bit?

 

[Brice Burrell]

Nice start Brice, keep it up when you have the time.

On the dowel trimming question, could you use the regular vertical base by tipping the router over so the stub is"inside" with the bit?

Michael, probably not, I don't think there would be enough room, the opening in the base is kind of small for that. I like this domino/dowel trimming idea, I'll look into it and include it in the review.

BTW, this is exactly what I had in mind when I asked for the members input, thanks guys.

 

[sw1211]

How this would work for doing inlay work? I assume it would work well for this, any tips/technique suggestions would be great. 

Any uses you can think of in combination with the MFS.

Thanks in advance for the time you put in for this and other reviews.

 

[Forrest Anderson]

Can the router be used to trim off through dowels or Dominos flush to the surface?  I'm guessing one would use the horizontal base and maybe a spiral bit?  Right now I either cut the Domino off close with a handsaw then sand it flush or I use a Ryobi trim router with a homemade base.  The router takes a while to change the base and sometimes chips a little off the Domino or I'll accidentally tip it and have to sand out the gouge.   

When using the Ryobi, are you using a home-made horseshoe sub-base so that you use the router like any other router, but the C-shape of the supplementary base allows you to simply slide the router over the protruding dowel? The depth of the router bit is set so that almost touches the surface, and will shear off the top of the dowel.

Brice - although one could design a horseshoe sub-base for any router, can one be easily fitted to the MFK700?

The Trend T2 Laminate Router uses the same sort of operation, but in this case the base is designed to be horseshoe-shaped from the beginning:

For rather more money, there's the Lamello Plano 45...

...shown in operation at the 4min 48sec point in this video

Forrest

 

[Brice Burrell]

I think I've come up with something, 1.5 degree horizontal base can fit onto the motor in the vertical position, this leaves the bit exposed to cut the domino/dowel. I think you'd need a bit with a short cutting length, like the Forrest has pictures in the Trend router. I haven't try it yet but it looks promising. I'll add this info to the review, thanks again guys for inspiring me to find the answer to this.

 

[Jay Evans]

Guys,
You could easily make a horse-shoe base for the MFK 700 and attach it with one 8mm flat head screw, from the bottom, (countersink the head into the sub base from the bottom) through the hole which is already in the base under the handle (on the Vertical base).  Notice the top side of the hole is made to accept (trap) an 8 mm nut, so attaching sub bases to this router would be very easy.  Jerry Work uses this hole for mounting to a MFT, but I'll bet the original design for this hole was for mounting and securing sub bases

Jay

 

[Forrest Anderson]

I think I've come up with something, 1.5 degree horizontal base can fit onto the motor in the vertical position, this leaves the bit exposed to cut the domino/dowel. I think you'd need a bit with a short cutting length, like the Forrest has pictures in the Trend router. I haven't try it yet but it looks promising. I'll add this info to the review, thanks again guys for inspiring me to find the answer to this.

That looks real neat! The gap between the ends of the horseshoe appears to be about 30mm, so it's plenty big enough for trimming dowels or tenons. Also there's a nice large base to help keep the router stable. My only reservation is the 1.5 degree tilt of that base. When the router body is mounted like you've got it, would that mean that the bottom of the router bit wasn't running parallel to the surface of the wood? The optional 0 degree base might be better for this, if it has the same mounting system.

Another question - when trimming edge lipping, what is the maximum "vertical overhang" that can be trimmed, when the MFK700 is used horizontally? In other words, what is the maximum height the edge lipping can stand up above the surface of the table?

Forrest

 

[Daviddubya]

...Can the router be used to trim off through dowels or Dominos flush to the surface?...Tom.

Here's an alternate solution for vertical trimming:
http://www.patwarner.com/vertical_trim_subbase.html

I have a jig similar to Pat Warner's that I use with a PC trim router.  The only drawback to this approach is that it takes a while to get the bit set to the correct cutting depth, so I dedicated an old trim router to the task.

I am very interested to follow this thread, as I am thinking about selling several old routers and buying the MFK700 with the proceeds.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Jay, is right, you could make a large horse shoe shaped (auxiliary) base, the reason to use the 1.5 degree horizontal isn't necessarily because its better, but that you'll always have in the Systainer ready to use.

Forrest, I think the 0 degree base would be a little better, but the fact that the bit isn't a perfect right to the work piece isn't going to effect the end result. The bit at angle will still flush cut the tenon/dowel all the same. I haven't have a chance to find the maximums the minimums of it cutting capabilities. 

Steve, I think this router will be great for inlay work, its precision depth adjustment is incredible. I'll be using it with my MFS that's for sure, stay tuned.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I think I've come up with something, 1.5 degree horizontal base can fit onto the motor in the vertical position, this leaves the bit exposed to cut the domino/dowel. I think you'd need a bit with a short cutting length, like the Forrest has pictures in the Trend router. I haven't try it yet but it looks promising. I'll add this info to the review, thanks again guys for inspiring me to find the answer to this.

What kind of height adjustment is there in this configuration?

 

[Warrior]

the 0 deg base in this configuration will work best and the height adjustment is within the base itself so it should work swell.
You should get the same adjustment range of I think 15 or 16mm.

 

[Michael Kellough]

Can the router be used to trim off through dowels or Dominos flush to the surface?  I'm guessing one would use the horizontal base and maybe a spiral bit?  Right now I either cut the Domino off close with a handsaw then sand it flush or I use a Ryobi trim router with a homemade base.  The router takes a while to change the base and sometimes chips a little off the Domino or I'll accidentally tip it and have to sand out the gouge.   

When using the Ryobi, are you using a home-made horseshoe sub-base so that you use the router like any other router, but the C-shape of the supplementary base allows you to simply slide the router over the protruding dowel? The depth of the router bit is set so that almost touches the surface, and will shear off the top of the dowel.

Brice - although one could design a horseshoe sub-base for any router, can one be easily fitted to the MFK700?

The Trend T2 Laminate Router uses the same sort of operation, but in this case the base is designed to be horseshoe-shaped from the beginning:

For rather more money, there's the Lamello Plano 45...

...shown in operation at the 4min 48sec point in this video

Forrest

The Betterley router at the top of the page would trim dowels too and the clamps in the rest of the article are interesting.

Solid surface stufff

 

[greg mann]

Judging from what I see of the set up Brice has made for trimming dowels I would extrapolate that the zero degree base, used vertically, would be great for inlay work because it would give you a window through which you can see!

 

[tvgordon]

Forrest,
That is exactly what I'm using - a horseshoe shaped base on the trim router.  If I would make another base, I would cut a "C" out of a piece of rectangular plastic as to have more stability when cutting.  It seems I never fail to tip the router a little on one of the cuts.

But, the way Brice has it set up in the photo, it looks like the Festool router could be used in the same manner.  The horizontal base would help keep the router steady during a cut.  Thanks Brice.

Tom.

 

[Brice Burrell]

OK, guys, I wasn't thinking straight last night. The 1.5 degree horizontal base used in the vertical position won't hold the at 1.5 degrees off. The horizontal base in the vertical position mounts differently in that position, in a different set of mounting holes in the base. I believe it would at a right angle to the work piece in the vertical position.

Eiji is right, you'll have the same 15 mm of adjustment.

Judging from what I see of the set up Brice has made for trimming dowels I would extrapolate that the zero degree base, used vertically, would be great for inlay work because it would give you a window through which you can see!

Greg, thats a good idea, I'll try it out.

 

[joraft]

I didn't order the 0 deg. base with my MFK 700 because I wasn't sure it would be worth the price. It will be interesting to see what uses for it are discovered as this router gets into more hands.

John

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Come on guys.... I promised myself that I wasn't gonna buy this router.  Then there's Jerry showing how to mount it to an MFT or a guide rail, and now Brice is coming up with all kinds of ideas.  I feel a burning sensation near my checkbook.

BTW, when the Bosch Colt first came out, the standard demo involved the salesrep using it to trim the print off his business card without tearing up the paper.  Routers are definitely the way to trim plugs.

At school we use bamboo skewers as plugs to keep veneer positioned precisely while its being pressed.  The "right" way to do it (e.g. the schools way) is to drill the hole, apply glue and veneer, stick in the plug and trim the plug with a flush cut saw.  Wasting precious 'open time' on a flush cut handsaw always drove me crazy, so at home, I trim the pegs with a small router.  Wayyyy faster.