Too poor for the LR32 what are my options
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Wonderwino
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I tried using one of those jigs McFeely's sells that uses a vix bit in a bushing. It worked okay for one cabinet, but when I had a big batch to do, I broke down and purchased the LR32. The holes are cleaner, the whole process is much faster and more accurate, especially if you use the "true-32" system and watch Brice's videos with the parallel guides.
I'm sure you could sell it on ebay if you never need it again and get most of your money back.
I'm sure you could sell it on ebay if you never need it again and get most of your money back.
Wood_Junkie
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Do you already have a OF1010 or OF1400?
If you have multiple cabinets to do, it probably is worth it to get it.
Assume you can resell it for 75-80% (easily). So you're really only "sinking" less than $100 into it. There are few other high quality & precision jigs for less than a hundred bucks.
If you have multiple cabinets to do, it probably is worth it to get it.
Assume you can resell it for 75-80% (easily). So you're really only "sinking" less than $100 into it. There are few other high quality & precision jigs for less than a hundred bucks.
chrisrosenb
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There are other options. Check Rockler & Lee Valley web sites.
Another option would be the buy the LR32, complete you kitchen & then sell the LR32.
I believe this option would be the least costly if you do not think you will need to drill holes in the future.
Another option would be the buy the LR32, complete you kitchen & then sell the LR32.
I believe this option would be the least costly if you do not think you will need to drill holes in the future.
I've got a $20 Wood River jig that I bought at Woodcraft that works just fine. I've done four built-ins with it so far, probably with about the number of holes a typical kitchen would have. It's a little slower than the LR32, but if you factor in the setup time for the LR32, it's not much different. If I did this ever day I might buy the LR32, but not for one kitchen.
WarnerConstCo.
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They make things like these, I see them used all the time for cheap.
I also have an inexpensive shelf hole jig. For a 3 section built-in it takes maybe 15 minutes to drill all the holes and that includes a smoke break.
I also have an inexpensive shelf hole jig. For a 3 section built-in it takes maybe 15 minutes to drill all the holes and that includes a smoke break.
The way I have always drilled cabinet side panels is with one piece of ply or MDF about 18mm/3/4" thick and about 100mm/4" wide cut to the same hight as the inside of your cabinet. Mark a line through the centre and mark out all of the hole positions you require drill with 5mm drill
To drill the cabinet sides either before or after cabinet has been built place the jig against the back and the front of the side panels and simply drill through the holes you have already made
This simple and extremely cheap jig will last only one job but it only took about 15 mins to make that's about as cheap as you could possibly use
But I will buy the LR32 as soon as I can afford it
To drill the cabinet sides either before or after cabinet has been built place the jig against the back and the front of the side panels and simply drill through the holes you have already made
This simple and extremely cheap jig will last only one job but it only took about 15 mins to make that's about as cheap as you could possibly use
But I will buy the LR32 as soon as I can afford it
Ken Nagrod
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Burchie's offering a bargain, because I was thinking about you covering my airfare, hotel stay and all you can eat buffet plus the show girls, of course! [smile]
Sparktrician
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For several years I've been using the Econo-Bore from MEG Products (http://megproducts.com/econo-bore32.html) in conjunction with my older Porter-Cable 8529 plunge router equipped with a 5/8" bushing and a 5mm brad-point boring bit from Amana Tool with a 10mm to 1/2" adapter sleeve. The Econo-Bore is a piece of cake to set up and use, and is far more accurate at retaining perpendicularity to the surface being bored (compared to some of the other less-expensive options that use Vix bits and/or hand-held drills), all for $119. He sometimes has blems for sale, too, with a nice price reduction.
[smile]
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Mark:
Do you have either an OF 1010 or OF 1400?
If so, I'm guessing you can use the LR 32 system and still make out. What I think I know about the Honolulu market is that you should be able to sell the gear when you're done with it and do well. All you need that you don't necessarily want to sell is the guide rail. I think you can get the guide rail locally and you can get the Hole Drilling Set or Hole Drilling Set in Systainer with no tax or shipping. It takes about 3 days. If you don't have the required bits, I recommend the latter.
As was mentioned, you should be able to sell the same articles in good condition for about what you paid. There is an active market for these quality tools there.
Tom
Do you have either an OF 1010 or OF 1400?
If so, I'm guessing you can use the LR 32 system and still make out. What I think I know about the Honolulu market is that you should be able to sell the gear when you're done with it and do well. All you need that you don't necessarily want to sell is the guide rail. I think you can get the guide rail locally and you can get the Hole Drilling Set or Hole Drilling Set in Systainer with no tax or shipping. It takes about 3 days. If you don't have the required bits, I recommend the latter.
As was mentioned, you should be able to sell the same articles in good condition for about what you paid. There is an active market for these quality tools there.
Tom
Thanks for all the advice. The only problem with buying a Festool thinking you will resell it is that I never want to part with any of them. Yup, I've got a 1010 which is ideal for the LR32. I know as soon as I try to cheapskate it, I'm gonna be right down at Woodcraft buying the darn thing anyway.
The good part about our local Festool dealer, Woodcraft is that they are now charging catalogue prices now without added shipping. In the end it will still be cheaper and more rewarding to build these cabinets versus going with some of the many local chinese cabinets shops around town.
The good part about our local Festool dealer, Woodcraft is that they are now charging catalogue prices now without added shipping. In the end it will still be cheaper and more rewarding to build these cabinets versus going with some of the many local chinese cabinets shops around town.
hogbiscuit
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You can use one of these............
http://woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-784RK-Metric-Shelf-Pin-Jig/M/B002LTWI6M.htm
or these............
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081355/30597/Woodpeckers-Combo-Shelf-Pin-Template.aspx
You will need a guide bushing adapter for your 1010 though.
Marcus
http://woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-784RK-Metric-Shelf-Pin-Jig/M/B002LTWI6M.htm
or these............
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2081355/30597/Woodpeckers-Combo-Shelf-Pin-Template.aspx
You will need a guide bushing adapter for your 1010 though.
Marcus
You can also use:
El Templato Del Plastico Cheapo
I have one of these for now until I can get the LR32. The big issue with this though, is it doesn't fit in a Systainer.... [cool]
El Templato Del Plastico Cheapo
I have one of these for now until I can get the LR32. The big issue with this though, is it doesn't fit in a Systainer.... [cool]
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