Tool Snob Carvex Review

[tjbnwi]

Here's what the Tool Snob guy faced.

[attachimg=1]

and as you cut further into the work piece it may ride up like this.

[attachimg=2]

and it may hang in transition.

But this particular problem will be overcome in short order with some sort of wedge attached to the standard base.  It's no big deal.

I think the bigger question is how well does this unconventional bevel base work in the middle of flat material for more routine bevel cuts.  Is it stable?  Is half a foot enough for reliably stable cutting from above and below.  

If I get a Carvex I will be using it to do traditional jigsaw stuff and much more.  I intend to effectively replace my conventional circular saw with a Carvex.  That's right, replace.  Completely replace.  As in never use again.  At $350 (or $550 for the battery unit) it's got to do that for me.  Cause I'm poor but I like nice tools, I like Festool and I need a jigsaw.

Tom's post #57 is addressing this directly, instead of the angle plate being being adjusted concave, make it convex and support from the other side.

EDIT: unfortunately that won't work though if there isn't enough material to support that side of the plate, as in scribing a cabinet

As long as one of the wings can be placed on a face frame/filler it is wide enough. The most common "factory" face frame is 1 1/2" with 1/4" scribe projection. No matter what/which jig saw it is,  the base does not have full purchase. I use an old Bosch 4200, one that you need the long screw driver to change the blade. The base is 2 1/2" wide, there is no way on an 1 1/2" face frame I'm going to get full plate contact, with or without a bevel.

Again, I have no clue what or how this is an issue. As I said the rest of the world has not had a problem with this in how many years? Guess they're just smarter than the tool.

Tom

 

[Paul G]

Tom's post #57 is addressing this directly, instead of the angle plate being being adjusted concave, make it convex and support from the other side.

EDIT: unfortunately that won't work though if there isn't enough material to support that side of the plate, as in scribing a cabinet

As long as one of the wings can be placed on a face frame/filler it is wide enough. The most common "factory" face frame is 1 1/2" with 1/4" scribe projection. No matter what/which jig saw it is,  the base does not have full purchase. I use an old Bosch 4200, one that you need the long screw driver to change the blade. The base is 2 1/2" wide, there is no way on an 1 1/2" face frame I'm going to get full plate contact, with or without a bevel.

Again, I have no clue what or how this is an issue. As I said the rest of the world has not had a problem with this in how many years? Guess they're just smarter than the tool.

Tom

Maybe I'm not seeing it (wouldn't be the first time lol) but if I'm trying  to trim a minor amount from a face frame with a back bevel using the carvex angle base, in order to have any support I'd need to have the base set to concave like fshannos picture illustrates, if set to convex then it would need to ride on air. A plate like Shane illustrated or a shim plate on the 90 degree plate seems like the answer to this particular issue.

 

[Jonhilgen]

Tom's post #57 is addressing this directly, instead of the angle plate being being adjusted concave, make it convex and support from the other side.

EDIT: unfortunately that won't work though if there isn't enough material to support that side of the plate, as in scribing a cabinet

As long as one of the wings can be placed on a face frame/filler it is wide enough. The most common "factory" face frame is 1 1/2" with 1/4" scribe projection. No matter what/which jig saw it is,  the base does not have full purchase. I use an old Bosch 4200, one that you need the long screw driver to change the blade. The base is 2 1/2" wide, there is no way on an 1 1/2" face frame I'm going to get full plate contact, with or without a bevel.

Again, I have no clue what or how this is an issue. As I said the rest of the world has not had a problem with this in how many years? Guess they're just smarter than the tool.

Tom

Maybe I'm not seeing it (wouldn't be the first time lol) but if I'm trying  to trim a minor amount from a face frame with a back bevel using the carvex angle base, in order to have any support I'd need to have the base set to concave like fshannos picture illustrates, if set to convex then it would need to ride on air. A plate like Shane illustrated or a shim plate on the 90 degree plate seems like the answer to this particular issue.

If you need to trim a little (or a lot) off a face frame, why not just slap a rail on the cabinet and use the ts55?  Using a jig saw on a face frame cabinet is just the wrong tool for the job, IMHO. 

 

[tjbnwi]

Tom's post #57 is addressing this directly, instead of the angle plate being being adjusted concave, make it convex and support from the other side.

EDIT: unfortunately that won't work though if there isn't enough material to support that side of the plate, as in scribing a cabinet

As long as one of the wings can be placed on a face frame/filler it is wide enough. The most common "factory" face frame is 1 1/2" with 1/4" scribe projection. No matter what/which jig saw it is,  the base does not have full purchase. I use an old Bosch 4200, one that you need the long screw driver to change the blade. The base is 2 1/2" wide, there is no way on an 1 1/2" face frame I'm going to get full plate contact, with or without a bevel.

Again, I have no clue what or how this is an issue. As I said the rest of the world has not had a problem with this in how many years? Guess they're just smarter than the tool.

Tom

Maybe I'm not seeing it (wouldn't be the first time lol) but if I'm trying  to trim a minor amount from a face frame with a back bevel using the carvex angle base, in order to have any support I'd need to have the base set to concave like fshannos picture illustrates, if set to convex then it would need to ride on air. A plate like Shane illustrated or a shim plate on the 90 degree plate seems like the answer to this particular issue.

You looked at the (very nice) drawings in reply 60. One wing is on the face frame, thats about all the base you would have one the frame with any other jig saw with a base that angles. If you turn the saw around, the other wing would be on the face frame.

Jon,

I agree my first choice is the TS, followed up with the RAS if need be.

Tom

 

[semenza]

TS55 with rail  is great , if the scribe is straight.  Whether it be for a cabinet or a scribed trim piece nine out of ten that I do are wavy. So it really depends on the job.

Seth

 

[Jonhilgen]

Seth,  I typically back cut (25 degree or so) a 1/6 from my scribe line with the Ts, then belt sand to the line.  Still faster and cleaner than using a jig (IMHO).

Jon

 

[Paul G]

If you need to trim a little (or a lot) off a face frame, why not just slap a rail on the cabinet and use the ts55?  Using a jig saw on a face frame cabinet is just the wrong tool for the job, IMHO.   

If it's a straight cut that's exactly what I do, albeit with the 75 after the 55 recall.

 

[mastercabman]

Tom's post #57 is addressing this directly, instead of the angle plate being being adjusted concave, make it convex and support from the other side.

EDIT: unfortunately that won't work though if there isn't enough material to support that side of the plate, as in scribing a cabinet

As long as one of the wings can be placed on a face frame/filler it is wide enough. The most common "factory" face frame is 1 1/2" with 1/4" scribe projection. No matter what/which jig saw it is,  the base does not have full purchase. I use an old Bosch 4200, one that you need the long screw driver to change the blade. The base is 2 1/2" wide, there is no way on an 1 1/2" face frame I'm going to get full plate contact, with or without a bevel.

Again, I have no clue what or how this is an issue. As I said the rest of the world has not had a problem with this in how many years? Guess they're just smarter than the tool.

Tom

Maybe I'm not seeing it (wouldn't be the first time lol) but if I'm trying  to trim a minor amount from a face frame with a back bevel using the carvex angle base, in order to have any support I'd need to have the base set to concave like fshannos picture illustrates, if set to convex then it would need to ride on air. A plate like Shane illustrated or a shim plate on the 90 degree plate seems like the answer to this particular issue.

If you need to trim a little (or a lot) off a face frame, why not just slap a rail on the cabinet and use the ts55?  Using a jig saw on a face frame cabinet is just the wrong tool for the job, IMHO.   

That's the way I do it too
Jigsaw is just too slow

 

[Paul G]

Seth,  I typically back cut (25 degree or so) a 1/6 from my scribe line with the Ts, then belt sand to the line.  Still faster and cleaner than using a jig (IMHO).

Jon

Have done that also but the jig saw is handy when dealing with scribing to bricks or other irregular shapes, certainly isn't the tool for every cabinet scribe, wasn't suggesting it was.

 

[tjbnwi]

So this all comes down to, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Imagine that.

Tom

 

[festnoob]

So this all comes down to, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Imagine that.

Tom

The Trion comes pretty close! [big grin]

 

[tjbnwi]

So this all comes down to, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Imagine that.

Tom

The Trion comes pretty close! [big grin]

So now close is good enough?

Makes the obvious answer, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Tom

 

[festnoob]

So this all comes down to, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Imagine that.

Tom

The Trion comes pretty close! [big grin]

So now close is good enough?

Makes the obvious answer, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Tom

True true

 

[Paul G]

So this all comes down to, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Imagine that.

Tom

Tom, I have deep respect for your skills and I've learned much from you here at FOG so please accept my apologies if I've managed to frustrate you in this discussion. I'm not hoping the Carvex will make a perfect latte, just been looking at using it for things I've used other jigsaws over the years and two ideas for mods have emerged. I'm reminded of having often gotten the latest upgrade to a piece of software only to discover a feature I use has been scrapped in favor of other workflows (Adobe is notorious), sometimes its an improvement, sometimes not, but stuff still needs to get done regardless. This has been helpful for me, hopefully others as well.

 

[tjbnwi]

So this all comes down to, there is no one tool that will satisfy everyone in every possible situation.

Imagine that.

Tom

Tom, I have deep respect for your skills and I've learned much from you here at FOG so please accept my apologies if I've managed to frustrate you in this discussion. I'm not hoping the Carvex will make a perfect latte, just been looking at using it for things I've used other jigsaws over the years and two ideas for mods have emerged. I'm reminded of having often gotten the latest upgrade to a piece of software only to discover a feature I use has been scrapped in favor of other workflows (Adobe is notorious), sometimes its an improvement, sometimes not, but stuff still needs to get done regardless. This has been helpful for me, hopefully others as well.

No frustration what so ever. Everyone needs to make a choice based on their needs.

I'm not one to read tool reviews, I think the the Tool Snob one was my first (I don't read the reviews on this site). I avoid them because the reviewers write from their experience. I feel that the writers expected all the parts to work as jig saws always have. Instead of spending a few minutes to evaluate the issue and see a solution, they only saw a problem. One thing in the review that struck me as foolish was the comment about the CCF. I don't believe the advice came from anyone at Festool. It has been known for about a year that there will be no CCF for the 420.

Tom

 

[NJHW]

No frustration what so ever. Everyone needs to make a choice based on their needs.

I totally agree...
We are so lucky that Festool lets us try out their tools for 30 days , I got to play with the Carvex this weekend cutting some 3/4", 1-1/2" stock and I really like it a lot , I like the fixed plate , (my old Cordless Dewalt kept moving on me)The "A" speed and the light are a great feature, I will get the Circle cutter and that's it,I don't need the other plates, the only thing I'm debating is if I should return it and wait for the cordless  to come out because it seems that with the cord and the hose attached it will slow down the work process.maybe because I'm used to a cordless jigsaw, Its just easier to maneuver without a cord.

 

[tbellemare]

If you're getting the circle cutter, don't forget that you also need the Guide Stop Base.

Buying them as a set, you save $7.

Tom

 

[NJHW]

Thanks for the link Tom.

 

[Paul G]

If you're getting the circle cutter, don't forget that you also need the Guide Stop Base.

Buying them as a set, you save $7.

Tom

That comes with the accessory kit no?

Also, in that video on your page, at about 1:14 I'd swear that looks like a flat base set at an angle, maybe it's a camera angle/lens distortion that's fooling my eye.

 

[tbellemare]

Yes, the Accessory Kit in T-Loc comes with everything available that isn't included with the saw. I don't know if it's an oversight in the catalog or a change in the scope of delivery (possibly temporary) but all of the Kits I've sent out had the StickFix (hook & loop) base plus 5 felts. That combination isn't mentioned in the catalog.

Tom