TPC 18 Percussion Drill - Using SDS bits

[mgc87]

Just shredded a Diablo 1/2 inch masonry bit trying to drill concrete for anchors.
Went to the local shop where they recommended using an SDS-plus bit.
Tried looking for an adapter to use for the TPC 18 to be able accept an SDS-plus bit -- no luck. Tried putting the bit in the provided chuck and too much wobble.
Any suggestions?

 

[Lincoln]

SDS bit needs an SDS chuck, in a rotary-hammer drill. The TPC is just a hammer drill.
In the Festool world, that would be the BHC18, or the new KHC18.

 

[rvieceli]

[member=79679]mgc87[/member] a one inch sds plus rotary hammer should do what you want.

Most of the major brands make them. Corded ones run around $200+ and cordless around $300 to $500

Ron

 

[rst]

Definitely use a rotary hammer drill.  I used corded and 18v 1/2” Milwaukee hammer drill for 35 years popping thousands of holes.  I sold my hammer drill within days of getting my Milwaukee 1 5/8” M18 rotary.  When I started part time in 2019 for a commercial glazing company doing tons of work they were using hammer drills…16 of them. I convinced them to switch to rotary for anchoring.  The difference in speed is amazing, plus the chiseling function is really handy.  Ai 71, I seldom end up on installing excepting service calls,plus I’m part time, three days,6 hours

 

[Laminator]

My story parallels RST's, hammer drilled for years and ran upon some concrete that simply melted all my tapcon bits.  I went and bought a small corded (makita) rotary hammer and it punched through it like butter. I kicked myself for all the time and effort I had wasted for years pushing on that hammer drill lol and haven't used one since.  Only thing is drilling through tile. A rotary hammer will shatter most tile so I drill through the tile with a diamond core bit to eliminate that problem.

 

[six-point socket II]

Do not use SDS-plus drill bits in a hammer drill, especially not in a setting exceeding 1XXX RPM. The way current 4 cutter head SDS-plus drill bits work is mainly through “chiseling” and using rotation to change position and clearing the hole of the debris. The head is not designed to “cut”, that is also why they highly underperform in those instances when used with only rotation, compared to 2 cutter head SDS-plus drill bits. It’s also the reason the head dislikes speed/ high RPM, as I wrote in the first line. Also the way SDS-plus works when chucked in the correct SDS-plus chuck, it is self-centering. So, again, do not try to chuck SDS-plus drill bits in a jacobs chuck unless it’s a life or death type emergency and the whole world depends on you …

That said, of course there is nothing that is not made these days. Here is a an example of a hex-shaft to SDS-plus adapter from a German online shop, maybe you’ll be able to source something similar in North America (or where ever you are located).https://www.uni-max.de/reduktion-6hr-auf-sds-plus/

I absolutely do not recommend using this regularly, but depending on the task, it might be one of those problem solving tools that helps one out in a single instance/ to overcome an obstacle.

I also second the recommendation of buying a rotary hammer when you run into concrete more than this one time.

Kind regards,
Oliver

   

 

[mrboult]

I also used hammer drills for too many years (only doing occasional holes for installation) then when i had a project that required 100s of holes i purchased The Festool BHC. Sold my PDC hammer drill that week to buy a second T18 drill instead.

As to the OPs question, i have on occasion cut the connector end off an SDS bit in order to use a regular chuck. But i will still perform/last less way less well then in an actual SDS. I believe it is the action that plays the bigger difference rather than the drill bit construction. .

 

[six-point socket II]

Obviously, when comparing machine types - the action is what makes the difference between a hammer drill and rotary hammer.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[mino]

Two sides to this coin:

Yes, you can absolutely use an SDS-plus bit. Just cut off the "SDS" part off of the bit with an angle grinder and there ya go. I did that a couple times with cheapo SDS bits as they are easier to get than quality "normal" masonry bits.

No, you absolutely should NOT use the TPC for drilling into concrete. Masonry, air-cement blocks it is for. Not concrete. *) **)

Also, as mentioned, even in masonry, one should not use higher speed than 3. 2 is optimal for masonry drilling.
Else you will burn the bit.

*) possibly a 5/32 bit would be still fine into concrete, 4 mm one in Europe, anything bigger and the hole needs a proper Hammer drill.

**) not unless you enjoy torturing the TPC, yourself, as well as the drill bit

I also used hammer drills for too many years (only doing occasional holes for installation) then when i had a project that required 100s of holes i purchased The Festool BHC. Sold my PDC hammer drill that week to buy a second T18 drill instead.
...

There are cases where a percussion drill is still preferable. Especially in thin/hollow brick masonry where a hammer runs the risk of completely shattering the wall/surface.

The TPC is a good setup for that IMO.
The percussion there is kinda an "after-thought". Useful where even a super-small 1J hammer is too much, but not to be used otherwise.

 

[rst]

Mino is correct in that a hammer drill has situations where it would be more appropriate.  I did not mention in my post recommending the rotary.  I still have a Milwaukee 12v hammer drill for less demanding situations.