TS 55 req Melamine Rip Problems

[rowland]

I am a complete rookie with woodworking, so forgive me here. 

I have recently purchased at TS 55 and an MFT to build a California Closet type system.  I'm trying to rip 3/4" melamine sheet goods and having issues both with obtaining long square cuts and also having saw motor rpm loss during cuts.  I have joined two tracks together using a Betterly alignment tool, but can't seem to get repeating, perfectly square, long ripped boards (these need to be 72").  If I match the sheet good against the off cut piece, the middle of the cut seems to bow indicating to me that the cut is not perpendicular or square.  I was also having issues with the saw motor losing speed during the long cut.  I'm using a 48 melamine blade that is basically new.  Do I need to spring for the long 110" track to guarantee alignment?  This is getting expensive!

I've watched a ton of YouTube on breaking down sheet goods.  I'm ripping a small strip off the factory edge with no problem and then using parallel guides hoping for repeating cuts, but when I place the long ripped pieces side by side, none are the same.  Ugh!  Any suggestions for the rookies?  Thanks!

 

[Laminator]

Definitely check for stress in the melamine.  I've cut plenty that bowed just from being cut and the only remedy was to rip it wider and then cut it again to get a strait edge.  Hope this helps.

 

[Peter_C]

First thing I would do is to check the tracks with a long level. The Betterly tool is supposed to work well, but nothing will beat a long level, or another machined surface that is perfectly straight. Otherwise the suggestion above would definitely be worth a try.

 

[Doug S]

The two suggestions above are spot on and I can't add anything apart from saying the saw should not be struggling cutting 3/4" melamine so something is not right.

Doug

 

[peter halle]

Really good suggestions and thoughts already.  Because material can be a PART of the equation, are you using melamine from wither Home Depot or Lowe's?

Peter

 

[Holmz]

... to build a California Closet type system...

I have not heard of that, do you have an example?

 

[antss]

Couple of thoughts:

We cut a lot of lacquer, melamine, laminate, and veneer panels for kitchens on site with a ts55 and I've found the 28 tooth blade to be better for almost all except crossctting veneer panels.  You might try that. Mostly use the OEM blades , but the Freud 28t is quite good for the price.

If you're making those type of closets , I wouldn't sweat the bowed edge.  Place that against the wall - which is way more uneven than your worst cut anyway. Index off of the factory edge for your system holes and use that for the front.

I can't see how you're saving any $$$ buying Festool gear to make these, so a 110" rail cost shouldn't be an issue .  If you wanted to save $ you should have ordered components from one of the numerous companies that make parts and have them shipped or ups' to you.

I'm with the others about panel stress, and doubt the 110 guide will solve that issue. Double cuts are prob the answer. 

 

[Tyler Ernsberger]

I just did a closet system and cut down 13 sheets of melamine.  I agree with others about stress in the melamine.  I bought my melamine from Wurth Wood Group and actually got a better quality melamine cheaper vs Home Depot.  I did make a set of parallel guides to help make the rips faster.  I found a slower feed rate gave a better cut with no chip out. 

 

[vkumar]

Couple of thoughts:

We cut a lot of lacquer, melamine, laminate, and veneer panels for kitchens on site with a ts55 and I've found the 28 tooth blade to be better for almost all except crossctting veneer panels.  You might try that. Mostly use the OEM blades , but the Freud 28t is quite good for the price.

If you're making those type of closets , I wouldn't sweat the bowed edge.  Place that against the wall - which is way more uneven than your worst cut anyway. Index off of the factory edge for your system holes and use that for the front.

I can't see how you're saving any $$$ buying Festool gear to make these, so a 110" rail cost shouldn't be an issue .  If you wanted to save $ you should have ordered components from one of the numerous companies that make parts and have them shipped or ups' to you.

I'm with the others about panel stress, and doubt the 110 guide will solve that issue. Double cuts are prob the answer.

What are the companies that make the parts cheaper than doing it yourself? Sources appreciated .

 

[mike_aa]

... to build a California Closet type system...

I have not heard of that, do you have an example?

Google is your friend.

 

[bertv]

You may have an issue with alignment of the TS55 to the rail. Loosen the two green 'wheels' to their zero position (as far back as possible) and then tighten them in equal amounts to achieve a nice tension and smooth travel for the machine.

 

[Holmz]

[member=5467]Bert Vanderveen[/member]
Could the saw struggling could be a clue?

 

[Linbro]

Definitely a case of the material releasing stress, once it's cut. Doesn't  matter if you use a track saw, or a $50,000 panel saw, it still happens. The only way to avoid it is to 'break' the sheet, then start making your finish cuts.
Also, there's no way I would trust the factory edge on any sheet material, particularly melamine.

 

[ianrose]

I just got my TS 55req back last week. The motor burned out ,the bearings had to be replaced less than a year old  . After cutting some melamine on the mft -3 , I had the hardest time getting a square cut ,I reset the mft, squared it up and I still seem to be a little out ,where I was never out before. Long cuts seem to be the issue , approx. a 24'' cut seems to be out a 16th .  Thoughts?

 

[Holmz]

I wonder if you start with the blade about 1-mm into the material it should not deflect the blade and the material should not be releasing stress?

 

[antss]

What are the companies that make the parts cheaper than doing it yourself? Sources appreciated .
[/quote]

Alpha Cabinet components has been at it a long time
CabParts
Even a local shop with a CNC machine or even a decent edgebander and a line borer can whip up closet sides and shelves for a reasonable price.
The home centers even carry pre bored sides in a couple of sizes now too for about $20-25ea.

And if you want  a package deal with a 3D design program, Easy Closets will deliver to your doorstep with a color instruction booklet and all the hardware necessary to install.  A bit more $ than DIY, but waaaay less than CaliClosets or their lower brow competition.

 

[Alejandrom]

When I have to make a door or a furniture with long parts, I always cut them two times to eliminate the " banana effect " ( tensions of the panel ). I think there is no other way to solve it. Even if I have to order them to another company because I am too busy to make myself, I demand they cut it two times.

Hope it will help

 

[rowland]

Thanks everyone for these suggestions!  I really appreciate the help here. 

As a rookie, I've never heard of panel stress, but this makes sense.  I bought the melamine from a high quality lumber yard, but I don't really know the quality of it in relation to Home Depot.  The particle board portion looks pretty dense, but I'm sure it's not the best out there.  I can try to double cut the material so the final edge off-cut is just a few mm's and see how that works.  I also saw on another thread that if I score the melamine with a 2mm cut and then recut it, the saw wont have issues.  I'm cutting on a fully supported table with a sacrificial foam insulation board, so there is no extra friction.  The 48 tooth blade is making very clean cuts, but I also saw on the other thread that using a 28 rip blade may be easier on the saw.  The customer service guy at Festool also said use a 28 tooth blade.  I thought that was kind of strange since I assume that there's a lot of cabinet guys out there that want really clean cuts, but they probably don't use much melamine. 

Finally, I'm aware of the component purchasing opportunities out there, but I wanted to start a new hobby for myself which is why I've invested in Festool and am trying to do it myself.  I've got one closet done and it's not A+ but it was fun and I'm learning!