TS and other brands

jmbfestool said:
So ALL my makita tools I own I have replaced the cords with much longer cords and more flexible cords cus simply the cords supplied with makita are amongst the worst in the professional tool range.

So why don't you change the cords to these 16£ plug-it converters 240V & 110V and use the Makitas with your Plug-it cords?
 
Michael Kellough said:
...It isn't difficult to make a shallow scoring cut with the Festool saws without changing the depth of cut. Just find the right way to hold the saw so you can limit the depth for the first pass.

With the blade toed on the Festool saw I'm not sure it's not worth the time and effort for a scoring cut.
 
Reiska said:
jmbfestool said:
So ALL my makita tools I own I have replaced the cords with much longer cords and more flexible cords cus simply the cords supplied with makita are amongst the worst in the professional tool range.

So why don't you change the cords to these 16£ plug-it converters 240V & 110V and use the Makitas with your Plug-it cords?

Well i bought all my makita before I knew about festool/protool/Maffel.      I changed all the cords pretty much straight away  made them all 3.7meters long.  I won't be buying any makita tools any more unless they bring something out I really need and no one else offers an alternative.

Jmb

 
Brice Burrell said:
Michael Kellough said:
...It isn't difficult to make a shallow scoring cut with the Festool saws without changing the depth of cut. Just find the right way to hold the saw so you can limit the depth for the first pass.

With the blade toed on the Festool saw I'm not sure it's not worth the time and effort for a scoring cut.

The difference between the front teeth and the rear teeth (the toe-in) is only .002" at full plunge.
At scoring depth the toe-in is insignificant. All the other brands of track saw should have similar toe-in for best results.

That said, I rarely need to do it, even with the old ATF 55 saw.
 
Michael Kellough said:
Brice Burrell said:
Michael Kellough said:
...It isn't difficult to make a shallow scoring cut with the Festool saws without changing the depth of cut. Just find the right way to hold the saw so you can limit the depth for the first pass.

With the blade toed on the Festool saw I'm not sure it's not worth the time and effort for a scoring cut.

The difference between the front teeth and the rear teeth (the toe-in) is only .002" at full plunge.
At scoring depth the toe-in is insignificant. All the other brands of track saw should have similar toe-in for best results.

That said, I rarely need to do it, even with the old ATF 55 saw.

Michael, I don't if the .002" posted is typo or if your old ATF has much less toeing.  I believe it's more like .01" to .02".  I'm confident you're cutting the veneer twice so that sort of defeats the purpose.   
 
Is there a reason the Hilti WSC 267 Hypoid isn't on the list? I haven't seen it around recently, though it does seem to pop up on E-bay pretty regularly. Nifty looking saw, is it still sold in Europe I wonder?
 
I'm not seeing the 267 on the list but other saws there seem to be compatible with their guide rail system. With and without riving knives
 
Hi Reiska,

Reiska said:
Is the Mafell clamp groove by any chance compatible with the Festool clamps?

No hope. The Mafell T-track is much thinner than the festool clamp head

I already tried :)

- plouf -

@Festoolfootstool: silly me, I didn't notice you already answered Reiska's question!
 
My choice of DEWALT. I do not see any reason to pay more. the more range of works from both sides and clamps handy.
to be honest, I had to delete one item, what would have fun ..
P6010001.AVI
 
Tom Gensmer said:
After watching the Bosch video, it appears that the Bosch tracks use a narrow ridge for alignment, but the saw base appears to also include a more standard sized channel for Festool/Hilti/Makita tracks?

I'm not big on plunge saws, but it looks like Bosch is entering the fray as well:

http://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/ocs/tools/101349/27298/hand-held-circular-saws/gkt-55-gce/

Best,
Tom

The Bosch is already on the list.  The bosch is the same as the Mafel Plunge saw but has had a few features removed to lower the cost.    The narrow ridge you talk about is what Mafel have on their rails and bosch has teamed up with Mafel and like Mafel are able to work on Festool Rails.

JMB
 
I've recently had the Hilti on trial. In my opinion it is not a true plunge saw but more of a hybrid. It can plunge but it is not sprung like the TS/Makita so you have to physically pull it out of the cut. It also has a traditional guard system that has to be pulled back before you put it on the track. However it does have a bed on both sides of the blade and the ability to lock the blade down means it can be used like a normal circular saw.

Personally, and I realise this could be blasphemous on a Festool forum, I went for the Makita SP6000 and certainly haven't regretted my choice yet. I've been using it to cut 18mm marine ply and the quality of the cut is superb, the saw is nice and quiet, the electronic brake is a nice feature and dust extraction is superb , admittedly attached to a Festool  CTL mini!

For £330 inc two 1400 rails, 2 connectors and a rail bag it was very good value too.
 
Dominion said:
I've recently had the Hilti on trial. In my opinion it is not a true plunge saw but more of a hybrid. It can plunge but it is not sprung like the TS/Makita so you have to physically pull it out of the cut. It also has a traditional guard system that has to be pulled back before you put it on the track. However it does have a bed on both sides of the blade and the ability to lock the blade down means it can be used like a normal circular saw.

Personally, and I realise this could be blasphemous on a Festool forum, I went for the Makita SP6000 and certainly haven't regretted my choice yet. I've been using it to cut 18mm marine ply and the quality of the cut is superb, the saw is nice and quiet, the electronic brake is a nice feature and dust extraction is superb , admittedly attached to a Festool  CTL mini!

For £330 inc two 1400 rails, 2 connectors and a rail bag it was very good value too.

Welcome to the fog dominion
 
Dominion said:
I've recently had the Hilti on trial. In my opinion it is not a true plunge saw but more of a hybrid. It can plunge but it is not sprung like the TS/Makita so you have to physically pull it out of the cut. It also has a traditional guard system that has to be pulled back before you put it on the track. However it does have a bed on both sides of the blade and the ability to lock the blade down means it can be used like a normal circular saw.

Personally, and I realise this could be blasphemous on a Festool forum, I went for the Makita SP6000 and certainly haven't regretted my choice yet. I've been using it to cut 18mm marine ply and the quality of the cut is superb, the saw is nice and quiet, the electronic brake is a nice feature and dust extraction is superb , admittedly attached to a Festool  CTL mini!

For £330 inc two 1400 rails, 2 connectors and a rail bag it was very good value too.

Welcome Dominion!!

Ok, I'm going to preface this statement with another: Everybody's needs and work habits are different.

I have tried numerous front-plunging circular saws (Festool TS55, TS75, Makita SP6000, etc...), and for my particular work habits I prefer rail-ready rear plunge saws. I just don't like the compromises I have to make going to the front-plunge saws. I am quite fond of the Hilti WSC-267E (USA version of the 265), it's nice to be able to break down sheets on the track one minute, cross cut a bunch of framing lumber the next, and then go back to using a track to cut down a door, rather than carrying a bunch of saws.

To each his own, right? :)

Best,
Tom
 
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