ts55 not gliding smoothly

[mrFinpgh]

I was ripping some plywood today and had to join up my two 55" rails to do so.  What I noticed is that the saw is running smoothly along one rail but seems to struggle on the other rail.

I'm a DIY/amateur user, so it isn't like I'm using them every day.  That said, I've built at least 20 cabinets and 10 bookcases with it, so they do get used.  Just wondering what is causing them to stick so much on the one rail but not the other.  If it was both, I'd assume something with the cams.

Thanks,
Adam

 

[Svar]

Is this the first time you are using joined rails? Guide ribs on the rails could have slightly different width.

 

[mrFinpgh]

No, not the first time - I've done a lot of joined rail ripping since I bought the saw (about 3 years ago) but I don't remember noticing this before.

I'll check out the guide ribs to see if that is the issue.  I'm more aware of trying to avoid forcing cuts now, so maybe I'm just noticing something that was there all along.

Thanks,
Adam

 

[Matty04]

Sometimes when I am cutting thin plywood the material will bow a little and flex the joint where the two rails are attached and cause the saw to require more force to move past where the rails are joined, but sometimes I cut a full sheet on two saw horses too.  If you move the joined rails using one rail the joint can twist a bit.  I have to remind myself to not do that and that the rails are made from aluminum, but I’m usually in hurry.

Mike

 

[Michael Kellough]

Put the rail that “sticks” first in sequence. Set gibs to that rail. When joining the rails make sure to align splinter guard side of ribs since that is the side that truly guides the saw.

 

[mrFinpgh]

If I do that, how would I keep the rails aligned while tightening up the connector on the bottom of the track?

Also, wouldn't this potentially lead the gibs to be too loose on the rail they currently operate freely on?  It seems like that could potentially be trading one issue (saw not running freely on the rail) for another (saw running too loosely on the track).

My caliper was out of battery, so I couldn't measure the width of the rib today.  However, I did notice that my brand new 800mm rail also feels 'tight' like the 1400mm holy rail. 

So two rails that feel tight and one that feels loose.  I think the rail is almost 3 years old at this point, so definitely outside the realm of exchanging it for a 'match'.  Still amazed that I didn't pick up on this a long time ago - I think I just chalked it up to the saw struggling in the cut.    [blink]

 

[mrFinpgh]

Reviving this old one, because my next (woodworking) project involves some 8' long rips.

I measured the ribs on my rails, and two of them (1400 holy rail and 800) come in at 16.04mm wide, while the other 1400 rail is 15.94mm.  So about 0.1mm off, or just under 4mils.  It doesn't sound like a lot - certainly over 8' it isn't much at all - but I need to do a fair amount of joinery off the saw so consistency is going to be a big deal.

Given that I know the difference with a fair degree of precision, would it be strange to pack out the thinner rib with foil tape to get it as close as possible to 'same' as the other rails?

 

[woodferret]

The rubber strip on the rail will cause more inaccuracies than setting the cam to the tighter rail. 

 

[Michael Kellough]

Reviving this old one, because my next (woodworking) project involves some 8' long rips.

I measured the ribs on my rails, and two of them (1400 holy rail and 800) come in at 16.04mm wide, while the other 1400 rail is 15.94mm.  So about 0.1mm off, or just under 4mils.  It doesn't sound like a lot - certainly over 8' it isn't much at all - but I need to do a fair amount of joinery off the saw so consistency is going to be a big deal.

Given that I know the difference with a fair degree of precision, would it be strange to pack out the thinner rib with foil tape to get it as close as possible to 'same' as the other rails?

If you don’t want to buy a rail long enough to suit the task…

Buy the TSO connectors and join the two rails with the wider spine coming first. Then use a true straight edge with feeler gauges to see how much the second rail falls below the first. The TSO connectors register to the middle of the grooves so they auto cut the width difference in half. You might find that you need to use an ordinary connector in the outer groove if the overall width of the rails is much more than .2mm.

If the definition your spines is .1mm when using the TSO connectors the net difference will only be .05mm, maybe too little to shim.

The full width of the spine isn’t important, only the difference in the business side surfaces. Make the glide adjusters tight on the first rail and lube the rail to make it easier to slide the saw. Hopefully there will be enough spring in the plastic to maintain good guidance on the thinner spine. Don’t leave the saw sitting on the wider spine when not in use.

When guiding the saw maintain slight but consistent pressure against the business side of the spine.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

If you do this frequently enough, this is the perfect case for a FS3000. It eliminates the need for (and cost of) an additional FS1400 and the connectors. When you already have one FS1400, the other is really only useful as an extension, so the extra expense?
The only real reason not to have the big rail, is storage space (or working space)

 

[mrFinpgh]

If you don’t want to buy a rail long enough to suit the task…

Buy the TSO connectors and join the two rails with the wider spine coming first. Then use a true straight edge with feeler gauges to see how much the second rail falls below the first. The TSO connectors register to the middle of the grooves so they auto cut the width difference in half. You might find that you need to use an ordinary connector in the outer groove if the overall width of the rails is much more than .2mm.

If the definition your spines is .1mm when using the TSO connectors the net difference will only be .05mm, maybe too little to shim.

The full width of the spine isn’t important, only the difference in the business side surfaces. Make the glide adjusters tight on the first rail and lube the rail to make it easier to slide the saw. Hopefully there will be enough spring in the plastic to maintain good guidance on the thinner spine. Don’t leave the saw sitting on the wider spine when not in use.

When guiding the saw maintain slight but consistent pressure against the business side of the spine.

If you do this frequently enough, this is the perfect case for a FS3000. It eliminates the need for (and cost of) an additional FS1400 and the connectors. When you already have one FS1400, the other is really only useful as an extension, so the extra expense?
The only real reason not to have the big rail, is storage space (or working space)

The rubber strip on the rail will cause more inaccuracies than setting the cam to the tighter rail. 

Thanks all.  The FS3000 is on my wishlist, but I work in a basement w/  78" from the floor to the joists. In this case, the reason I need that accuracy is because I will be edge jointing 90" lengths of  1/16" veneers and closing the gap with clamps isn't quite as easy as with thicker material.

I have a pair of homemade makita-style connectors that I have used for the past 5 or 6 years. I don't 'think they center anything automatically. My thinking was to line up the outer edge of the spine (closest to the splinter guard) and pack out the inside edge of the spine w/ tape. It sounds like perhaps the difference would be negligible enough as not to matter?

 

[woodferret]

Since we're talking jointing, have you considered CA gluing your panels together temporarily and then re-cutting that seam, worts and all with whatever rail you have?

 

[mrFinpgh]

Since we're talking jointing, have you considered CA gluing your panels together temporarily and then re-cutting that seam, worts and all with whatever rail you have?

I had considered that.  Though the CA glue is a new one to me. Usually I've used masking tape, which works out okay, but I like the idea of something that isn't adding any type of additional distortions to the joint.

I may give it a shot with the backer veneer and see if it's working out well.  If it is, that will be a huge timesaver for this and future projects where I might be on the hook for about 30+ sheets of veneering (although by then I'll hopefully have space for the FS3000).