Thx for the file share. How stable is the setup? I've seen some wooden versions that the bottle and stand can still be knocked down easily.@Michael Kellough Typically (and for this first panel), I used 6mm dominos - but if it's really just for alignment, I could use 4 or 5mm, right?
@jeffinsgf - I just came across that stand and printed it the other day. This is the first time using it and I really like it. This version holds the bottle upright and will close the nozzle. Fantastic. It does not re-open it when pulling it out - just closes. Printed in PLA on Bambu P1S.

Call me old fashioned but I always end up going back to classic plastic screw top bottles. They just work and are super easy to clean.Ha, the best glue bottle I've used is an old Lynx (Might be Axe in the US?) shower gell bottle.
One handed opening and closing, easy to pull the flippy top off if it gets clogged up to clean the dried up glue out and fits into a pouch with ease.
Leakproof as well.
I have no idea why glue manufacturers can't make a decent glue bottle but a showergell company can.
The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.Glad to hear it's not just me who has problems with Titebond. Feel like a feeble old man when I have to get a pair of pliers to open it. Then it's clogged.
I need to do this.The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.
I put it on both sides, of new bottles and an additional swipe on the male side, once in a while. The lid comes right off every time. I use my own beeswax-mineral oil blend, but I'm sure others would do the same.
We seem to be talking about two different issues here: you, the threaded cap; some of us, the clear nozzle that is hard to push up.The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.
I put it on both sides, of new bottles and an additional swipe on the male side, once in a while. The lid comes right off every time. I use my own beeswax-mineral oil blend, but I'm sure others would do the same.

3 different things really, when I mentioned screw top earlier, I meant like the attached pic, where the cover screws onto the screwtop that has the pouring spout.We seem to be talking about two different issues here: you, the threaded cap; some of us, the clear nozzle that is hard to push up.
For the nozzle, I solve it by changing the whole cap and nozzle with a flip lid:
.Glad to hear it's not just me who has problems with Titebond. Feel like a feeble old man when I have to get a pair of pliers to open it. Then it's clogged.

The push/pull part is what I struggle with. However...I'm stealing this idea for my liquor cabinet. Sugary liqueur bottle threads are going to get a swipe of vegetable oil. No matter how carefully I wipe them down with a wet paper towel, they're still crusty when I use them again.The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.
I put it on both sides, of new bottles and an additional swipe on the male side, once in a while. The lid comes right off every time. I use my own beeswax-mineral oil blend, but I'm sure others would do the same.