Using Hardwood Oak Flooring to Make Panels

@Michael Kellough Typically (and for this first panel), I used 6mm dominos - but if it's really just for alignment, I could use 4 or 5mm, right?

@jeffinsgf - I just came across that stand and printed it the other day. This is the first time using it and I really like it. This version holds the bottle upright and will close the nozzle. Fantastic. It does not re-open it when pulling it out - just closes. Printed in PLA on Bambu P1S.

Thx for the file share. How stable is the setup? I've seen some wooden versions that the bottle and stand can still be knocked down easily.

Wait. There're more stable options: https://makerworld.com/en/models/943238-titebond-glue-bottle-holder-upside-down#profileId-2462690

This also looks interesting: https://makerworld.com/en/models/12...le-opener-stand?from=search#profileId-1304281
 
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I never like the Titebond glue cap design. Glue bottles are supposed to be tool-free to open or close it.

I found a sauce bottle holder on makerworld that works well for my Lepage glue bottle. It's friction-fit so I can use it together or just the bottle itself. I'll refill it when the glue is used up. It cost me $0.67 in material cost.

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Ha, the best glue bottle I've used is an old Lynx (Might be Axe in the US?) shower gell bottle.
One handed opening and closing, easy to pull the flippy top off if it gets clogged up to clean the dried up glue out and fits into a pouch with ease.
Leakproof as well.
I have no idea why glue manufacturers can't make a decent glue bottle but a showergell company can.
 
Ha, the best glue bottle I've used is an old Lynx (Might be Axe in the US?) shower gell bottle.
One handed opening and closing, easy to pull the flippy top off if it gets clogged up to clean the dried up glue out and fits into a pouch with ease.
Leakproof as well.
I have no idea why glue manufacturers can't make a decent glue bottle but a showergell company can.
Call me old fashioned but I always end up going back to classic plastic screw top bottles. They just work and are super easy to clean.

Conversely the titebond bottles are by far the worst bottles I've ever come across. I buy the bulk titebond and pour it into multiple screw top bottles.
 
Glad to hear it's not just me who has problems with Titebond. Feel like a feeble old man when I have to get a pair of pliers to open it. Then it's clogged.
The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.
I put it on both sides, of new bottles and an additional swipe on the male side, once in a while. The lid comes right off every time. I use my own beeswax-mineral oil blend, but I'm sure others would do the same.
 
The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.
I put it on both sides, of new bottles and an additional swipe on the male side, once in a while. The lid comes right off every time. I use my own beeswax-mineral oil blend, but I'm sure others would do the same.
I need to do this.

I went to the Fine Woodworking New England event last year and Titebond was one of the sponsors. They were giving away 4z bottles of T2 and I got a bunch of them. I've been living The Good Life of just plowing through them and tossing them when finished. But I'm on my last one and had to go buy some today.
 
The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.
I put it on both sides, of new bottles and an additional swipe on the male side, once in a while. The lid comes right off every time. I use my own beeswax-mineral oil blend, but I'm sure others would do the same.
We seem to be talking about two different issues here: you, the threaded cap; some of us, the clear nozzle that is hard to push up.

For the nozzle, I solve it by changing the whole cap and nozzle with a flip lid:

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We seem to be talking about two different issues here: you, the threaded cap; some of us, the clear nozzle that is hard to push up.

For the nozzle, I solve it by changing the whole cap and nozzle with a flip lid:
3 different things really, when I mentioned screw top earlier, I meant like the attached pic, where the cover screws onto the screwtop that has the pouring spout.

These are by far the best I find. And any dried glue easily pulls out so no mess.
 

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Glad to hear it's not just me who has problems with Titebond. Feel like a feeble old man when I have to get a pair of pliers to open it. Then it's clogged.
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Try making this pry bar — it saves me a LOT of grief.

A buddy used his laser to cut it. However it is easy enough to make a DIY one.

I hang it next to the glue bottles.


9C9FABFC-12FD-4B07-A450-F01F69CC9284.jpeg
 
The trick to screw topped bottles is just wiping the threads with some "cutting board conditioner" type wax/oil blend.
I put it on both sides, of new bottles and an additional swipe on the male side, once in a while. The lid comes right off every time. I use my own beeswax-mineral oil blend, but I'm sure others would do the same.
The push/pull part is what I struggle with. However...I'm stealing this idea for my liquor cabinet. Sugary liqueur bottle threads are going to get a swipe of vegetable oil. No matter how carefully I wipe them down with a wet paper towel, they're still crusty when I use them again.
 
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