Using OF1010 above doors in drywall

[TristanI]

Hey guys/gals my first time posting on here, hope I have the right section.  I have a job coming up where I need to put an expansion joints above every suite entrance door in a 4 story condo complex. The expansion joint itself is this  The walls are double layered 5/8 drywall.  I am only going to cut a channel in the top layer.

My question is: Is the OF1010 with a plunge-able 7/16 diameter straight cut bit the best option? I need this to be as dustless as possible. Door frames are in expansion joint height from door frame to T-bar is about 23". 

Am I crazy to try and freehand the cut? Can a track and the guide stop on the router work vertically on the wall? What about the TS55? would that be better suited for this?

Total doors is 162x2 expansion joints each so I would love a solution to this that can be easily repeatable.

Thank you for reading.

 

[nclemmons]

Welcome to the FOG -

Do you need to go wall-to-wall with the joint, or just above the door?

Just thinking about how long are the expansion joint is and if you need to go all the way to the corner or not on each side.

I might try to take two pieces of wood attached together with a slot between them and use a template guide on the 1010 router with a 7/16 bit to plunge and make the cuts.  Then you could screw the wood template to the wall with a drywall screw on each end.  Fast and simple and you'll be painting / taping anyway.

You should get pretty good dust collection.  It's a lot of doors, so I'd defer to someone on the forum on considerations for the right vacuum / bag / filter consideration. 

neil

 

[TristanI]

Thanks for the welcome. I do have to go completely from door frame (metal knockdown frames) to T-bar. However I assume that no power tool will give me that kind of result so if I have to use a key hole saw or the Venturo I have no problem doing that. 

I like the two pieces of wood with the slot in the middle. that would give me something that I could hook over the side of the frame also to get a repeatable cut for all doors.

As far as Vac to get I was going to get the CT36 AC. I am a Drywaller/Taper by trade and will be getting a planex sometime in 2015.

 

[tjbnwi]

The track can be used in any position. In this photo the rail is mounted to the ceiling.[attachthumb=1]

With the door opening you may be able to use the Rapid Clamp to secure the rail to the door opening.Install the clamp as a spreader[attachthumb=2][attachthumb=3]

You'll need the rail attachment for the 1010.

Tom

 

[waho6o9]

Maybe an MFS template? [attachimg=1]

Welcome to the FOG!  [big grin]

 

[duburban]

Tom's post above reminds me of the time I ripped down a head casing after putting it up ( pocket jointed and all ) before ripping it. I was able to rest the track on some blocks clamped to the side casings. I have a video but its more embarrassing that way.

 

[TristanI]

Thanks everybody, love the suggestions. the MFS template that waho6of9 suggested seems like a good option that way I will be able to adjust the height on it in case the T-bar isn't level in the building.  I would rather not clamp to the door frames for the same reason. I am adding these because the whole building is shifting(settling?) and cracking.

I really appreciate the help and thoughts.

Thank you

Tristan

 

[Tinker]

I think you should find out why the building is shifting and cracking.
It suddenly looks like a job better done as a spectator from affar. As in walk don't run >>> very far.
Tinker

 

[TristanI]

I think you should find out why the building is shifting and cracking.
It suddenly looks like a job better done as a spectator from affar. As in walk don't run >>> very far.
Tinker

The building is 1 year old. Mainly wood framing. From what they have told me it is the wood shrinking. The cracks are in the 1st phase of 3 phases completed, other 2 phases had expansion joints installed at time of boarding/taping. I worked for the original drywall contractor at time of construction. Cracking is limited to hallways and in stairways. Inside the condos themselves is all steel framing and no cracks. Floors are concrete. Owner/Builder also know that I am there to install expansion joints, not hold the building together.

 

[Tinker]

I always stuck with single family sized projects.  I was a one to three man crew and stayed away from condos and commercials. I did taping only in Winter when the temp got down to or close to zero. I am not giving advice here, just curious.  How long are those hallways?  How much rise/run to the stairways?

I am wondering why you are being told it is wood shrinkage. Not having worked on large projects, I have not heard that before, nor witnessed. Where did the wood come from? Was it not kiln dried? When i was in construction, we did not have steel studding.  Steel girders/yes, but within my experience, the steel studding is something new. I see a lot of it now, even in small houses.

Not trying to shoot you down, just curious.  You know, I am only 39.  :

I remember when they first came out with dry wall.  I had learned a little about plastering (Brown coat/White coat) I was interested watching how easy and fast the sheet rock went up along with the taping.  More wall could be finished by accident than we could do on purpose with plastering.  AND, a lot less scaffolding and almost no mixing of material to cover those joints.  The sales pitch in those days was that "dry wall had everything that plaster had except the cracks." Also, we did not have to carry a small container of castor oil as we did when working with hot lime for white coat.
Tinker

 

[TristanI]

As far as I know the wood is kiln dried. However with most building projects here, wood is delivered and sits onsite outside exposed to the elements usually in the dirt or where ever the delivery truck dumps it. Framers seem to be hard to find here so wood is delivered for expected start day, framers are late by 1 - 4 weeks so wood sits.

I have seen trusses left on site for weeks and bowed between piles of snow.

Hallways are 400 feet stairway rise/run i don't know.

 

[Tinker]

OK. Now I begin to understand. 400 ft hallways and rain/snow soaked wood/warped trusses from outside soaking type storage.  Steel framing mixed in with very wet and/or frozen wood framing.  I begin to see the light.  Thanks for explaining.
Tinker