What do you use to fill in large cracks in solid timber slabs?

I have filled cracks many times without the issues of which you speak, plan ahead and seal all exits of material flow and don't overdo it with each coating.  I place brown building paper on my bench to catch any drips, etc.

If you want to fix the issue he has and his wife has indicated that she wants it fixed then don't do it half way with putty, etc.

Jack
 
jacko9 said:
I have filled cracks many times without the issues of which you speak, plan ahead and seal all exits of material flow and don't overdo it with each coating.  I place brown building paper on my bench to catch any drips, etc.

If you want to fix the issue he has and his wife has indicated that she wants it fixed then don't do it half way with putty, etc.

Jack

So have I.

I am speaking to someone (the OP) who hasn't, it's called advice.

Edit. Just re-read what I had put originally. I should point out, I'm not against the resin idea, far from it, just for the OP to be aware of the consequences of NOT closing off the exits, or the cave networks within the timber, or the magically opening tiny cracks on the base that you never thought for one moment might be connected to the larger crack above. That kind of thing.
 
I am against any epoxy (or other-gap filling) remedies for checking in the surface (NOT against epoxy for other uses. I use West frequently).  Here are my issues (...with this topic.  I have many other mental, etc issues): 1) The wood is not fully acclimated and will continue to shrink until it is; 2) the wood is checking because there is more shrinkage tangentially than radially; 3) the wood will expand and contract as relative humidity changes; 4) the epoxy will fill the checks and act as a wedge when the wood shrinks more ( meaning it will make the checking worse- this is what happens to the top layer of a bundle drying in the open)
 
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