What Festool Did You buy Today?

I have the Woodpeckers Auto-Line and really enjoy using it because of its precision, I recommend it highly. I also have the UJK item but dislike that thing intently...garbage. However, when using the Auto-Line, it usually needs to be attached to and detached from the drill multiple times so I struggle with that dance every time and for that reason alone, I'm thinking about picking up the MB 40. I certainly don't need 3 machines that perform the same task but the ease of use with the MB 40 certainly tempts me big time. :)
Good to know. I was considering between the two: Woodpeckers and the UJK. I can't go for the Festool (OMG!) because it is only 90º. I mean, I have a drill press calibrated to 90º so why!? I need a jig that does angles. I wondered which would be the best. So now I know which to watch for on Black Friday ;)
 
Good to know. I was considering between the two: Woodpeckers and the UJK. I can't go for the Festool (OMG!) because it is only 90º. I mean, I have a drill press calibrated to 90º so why!? I need a jig that does angles. I wondered which would be the best. So now I know which to watch for on Black Friday ;)
I'm actually thinking about grabbing the MD 460 swivelling stand when it's next on a promo:

 

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I have the Woodpeckers Auto-Line and really enjoy using it because of its precision, I recommend it highly. I also have the UJK item but dislike that thing intently...garbage. However, when using the Auto-Line, it usually needs to be attached to and detached from the drill multiple times so I struggle with that dance every time and for that reason alone, I'm thinking about picking up the MB 40. I certainly don't need 3 machines that perform the same task but the ease of use with the MB 40 certainly tempts me big time. :)
My experience with the MB-40 is that with Festool drills and centrotec bits it's a pleasure to use compared to the Rockler drill guide I also have.

Bob
 
I know those OZ Dollars are different, but they can't be that far off........can they?
Par for the course here in OZ unfortunately. And our own gov of late has been telling us how the high cost of living is here to stay, as if that's something to brag about.
 
I bought a lr32 set, waited long to but this (it is a lot of money)
and i am a bit dissapointed, i knew ofcourse that the reading scale is black and that people are changing the colour to make it better to read.
But the length stops are looking if they were in a car accident, not clear and shiny. Is this just me or is this the "standard"?
 

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I have the Woodpeckers Auto-Line and really enjoy using it because of its precision, I recommend it highly. I also have the UJK item but dislike that thing intently...garbage. However, when using the Auto-Line, it usually needs to be attached to and detached from the drill multiple times so I struggle with that dance every time and for that reason alone, I'm thinking about picking up the MB 40. I certainly don't need 3 machines that perform the same task but the ease of use with the MB 40 certainly tempts me big time. :)
Would you mind sharing your experience with the UJK drill guide?

Perhaps a different post will be helpful to find it later onwards.

Thank you!
 
I got all the blades (TS55, SawStop PCS, and Kapex) I sent into Quinn Saw back. While not new, each blade performs like new. I have noticed much less tear out on the Kapex cutting maple. First time using Quinn and I am very happy. The blades are super clean and the teeth fixed in addition to being very sharp. I will for sure use them again.

BTW, given the number of non-Festool blades I sent in and the shipping cost, I sent all the blades direct to Quinn. It did not make since for me to use the Festool Sharpening Service (which in turn uses Quinn) for the Festool blades
 
I got all the blades (TS55, SawStop PCS, and Kapex) I sent into Quinn Saw back. While not new, each blade performs like new. I have noticed much less tear out on the Kapex cutting maple. First time using Quinn and I am very happy. The blades are super clean and the teeth fixed in addition to being very sharp. I will for sure use them again.

BTW, given the number of non-Festool blades I sent in and the shipping cost, I sent all the blades direct to Quinn. It did not make since for me to use the Festool Sharpening Service (which in turn uses Quinn) for the Festool blades
Did they engrave them?
 
Met a great woodworker who had a couple Classic Systainers for $20. While I'm not a big fan of Classics, these latches must have been used quite a lot because they're pretty smooth to open and close.

Then went to check out the local Northern Virginia Woodcraft where they had this old Parallel Guide for the Trion on clearance. Picked that up and an interface pad.
 

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Met a great woodworker who had a couple Classic Systainers for $20. While I'm not a big fan of Classics, these latches must have been used quite a lot because they're pretty smooth to open and close.

Then went to check out the local Northern Virginia Woodcraft where they had this old Parallel Guide for the Trion on clearance. Picked that up and an interface pad.

They must have been modified, filed sanded etc. They don’t get much easier with use. Often they get scratched in such a way that they become much more difficult to use.

I have a few Makita Systainers and when new the latches were easier to use than any Festool classic Systainers that I could recall. I thought “great, I won’t have to modify these.” But yesterday I tried to open one and it was unbelievably difficult.
 
Would you mind sharing your experience with the UJK drill guide?

@MacBoy
I did a quickie review on the UJK drill stand several years ago beginning at post 104. The internal carriage wear was just one part of it as the 2 vertical posts were aligned in a kind of wonky manner and are also possibly bowed in the middle. The carriage wear was just the result of all the alignment issues present in the UJK and the carriage bore wear introduced additional stiction issues when trying to use the UJK.

At any rate, it was not a fun tool to use as the drill carriage refused to move smoothly along its entire length of travel. If you loosened the angle adjustment knobs at the base, then the travel smoothness improved but you were no longer able to maintain the drill angle you needed. It was a disaster especially for the money they were asking for it.
 
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FWIW...I've owned these 2 Festool bit holders for the last several years but only noticed on Friday that one will fit Centrotec chucks while the other will not. :cry: I tried putting it in the CXS 12 and it was a no-go.
 

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Met a great woodworker who had a couple Classic Systainers for $20. While I'm not a big fan of Classics, these latches must have been used quite a lot because they're pretty smooth to open and close.

Then went to check out the local Northern Virginia Woodcraft where they had this old Parallel Guide for the Trion on clearance. Picked that up and an interface pad.
While I replaced all my Classics with more current ones in the last year and a half, I kept the Classics to store things that don't need constant access but I want to keep clean and dust free. I have welding accessories, including my helmet, in the largest of the Classics that I had. The smallest one has all my Festool tool cords as I use a combined cord/hose with my CTs and rarely need a separate cord. They are faded and not pretty, but perfectly functional.
 
They must have been modified, filed sanded etc. They don’t get much easier with use. Often they get scratched in such a way that they become much more difficult to use.

I have a few Makita Systainers and when new the latches were easier to use than any Festool classic Systainers that I could recall. I thought “great, I won’t have to modify these.” But yesterday I tried to open one and it was unbelievably difficult.
I've found with mine that when they get old enough, and even though they've been stored properly indoors, they are still so tight they end up just breaking off when you try to open them.
 
When I made my bench with tray-drawers for the Systainers, it was before T-Locs. I put the Systainers in so I'd be on the backside of the Systainer when pulling the drawer. This let me flick the latches with my thumb instead of pulling with my index finger. Makes all the difference in the world. Give it a try
 
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