What is best method to stabilize domino in middle of board

A couple pictures to go with my old post above.

[attachimg=1]          [attachimg=2]
 

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SRSemenza said:
A couple pictures to go with my old post above.

[attachimg=1]          [attachimg=2]

This is a great idea but what do you do if the board is wider? [member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]
 
thedevme said:
This is a great idea but what do you do if the board is wider?

Use layout lines and align the DF 500 to the marks.  [smile]
 

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Sparktrician said:
thedevme said:
This is a great idea but what do you do if the board is wider?

Use layout lines and align the DF 500 to the marks.  [smile]

How do you keep the domino from moving?  I tried something similar but I got inconsistent results [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]
 
thedevme said:
Sparktrician said:
thedevme said:
This is a great idea but what do you do if the board is wider?

Use layout lines and align the DF 500 to the marks.  [smile]

How do you keep the domino from moving?  I tried something similar but I got inconsistent results [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

[member=69101]thedevme[/member] Plunge the DF 500 S-L-O-W-L-Y!!!  Listen to the motor pitch.  If it changes radically and the DF 500 is shifting position while you're plunging, you're plunging too rapidly.  [smile]
 
Sparktrician said:
thedevme said:
Sparktrician said:
thedevme said:
This is a great idea but what do you do if the board is wider?

Use layout lines and align the DF 500 to the marks.  [smile]

How do you keep the domino from moving?  I tried something similar but I got inconsistent results [member=7493]Sparktrician[/member]

[member=69101]thedevme[/member] Plunge the DF 500 S-L-O-W-L-Y!!!  Listen to the motor pitch.  If it changes radically and the DF 500 is shifting position while you're plunging, you're plunging too rapidly.  [smile]

Thanks - I actually just came back in before I read this and tried it plunging slowly does help but maybe because I am new to it - it takes me forever to line it up.  I feel more comfortable with everyones tips now I just have to do it.  Thank you.
 
You can also brace the side of the fence that wants to scoot away from your clamped straightedge with your thumb and index finger.  It's just a router.  The bit turns in one direction, the body will be forced in the other direction so you can apply a little force to counter that twisting motion.  This can be a problem with smoother surfaces where there isn't enough friction to keep the domino in place.  But most of the time, if you're not plunging too fast it's not an issue.
 
RKA said:
You can also brace the side of the fence that wants to scoot away from your clamped straightedge with your thumb and index finger.  It's just a router.  The bit turns in one direction, the body will be forced in the other direction so you can apply a little force to counter that twisting motion.  This can be a problem with smoother surfaces where there isn't enough friction to keep the domino in place.  But most of the time, if you're not plunging too fast it's not an issue.

Thanks, [member=21249]RKA[/member] - For when I do longboards and I need a bunch of them I decided to get/use a straight edge clamp that I found.  This will give me consistent plunges along the same line without needing the opposite board.  This coupled with the story stick I think I should be able to not have to take it apart every time to check.
 
thedevme said:
SRSemenza said:
A couple pictures to go with my old post above.

[attachimg=1]          [attachimg=2]

This is a great idea but what do you do if the board is wider? [member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]

I have a 26" square as well.  [wink]

If wider I usually use a guide rail with the domino against the back edge.  I haven't done that in a while but I think the TSO rail square might work.

Seth
 
thedevme said:
I decided to use this -https://www.infinitytools.com/2-wide-straight-edge-clamps-3126 I also plan on getting a 100in one for longer boards when I need it but I didn't like how long it takes to clamp a track or whatever so this gives me a straight edge and clamp all in one.  Thanks everyone for the ideas.

When you use these clamps on softer hardwoods, like cherry, you'll find that they leave compression tracks in your workpiece, so put a small piece of 1/4" or 1/2" plywood under the clamp feet before you lock them down. 
 
Do those clamps allow you to adjust the clamping tension? I can't be sure, but i have one of similar clamps and will take a look.
 
Not sure about the current production of the Pro-Grip clamps but on the original version the cam-like lever had two steps so it had two levels of force, enough and more. Unfortunately the clamp pad was a little loose on the tension rod so even though the clamp was tightened the straight edge could move a little bit laterally.

A straight board held down by plain old clamps is sufficient to solve the problem of guiding the Domino. Add increments to make the board into a story stick and practice holding the machine in place.
 
thedevme said:
I decided to use this -https://www.infinitytools.com/2-wide-straight-edge-clamps-3126 I also plan on getting a 100in one for longer boards when I need it but I didn't like how long it takes to clamp a track or whatever so this gives me a straight edge and clamp all in one.  Thanks everyone for the ideas.

Just a heads-up, those clamps can slip. At least the older ones can. Mine are probably 15-20 years old. Actually, that's the reason I purchased a TS 55 and guide rail was because of the slipping. Before the Festool purchase I cut sheet goods with those clamps and a Milwaukee circ saw.
 
ChuckM said:
Do those clamps allow you to adjust the clamping tension? I can't be sure, but i have one of similar clamps and will take a look.

Mine do not have an easily accessible adjustment. 
 
I've done this in the past for a long row of dominos placed in the field of a board.

An FS rail, 3 quick clamps and a 1010 guide stop.

[attachimg=1]

Place the rail in position and clamp, then center the DF 500 on the mark, move the guide stop over and clamp. It's a fast, easy and secure method to prevent the DF 500 from moving as you're holding the tool against the rail and the guide stop.

[attachimg=2]

[attachimg=3]

 

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To increase the grip when working with a small surface (where a rail or straightedge is hard to work with), I have tried two methods:

1) Adhere sandpaper to the fence
2) Spray an anti-slip coating (for stairs, steps, etc.) onto the fence (mask the window before you spray) (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/epoxyshield-epoxyshield-anti-slip-clear-340g/1000785172).

Method 1 would throw you off on the fence depth setting by the thickness of the sandpaper. You can apply the sandpaper when you need to use the intersecting-line technique, and remove it afterwards.

Method 2 is my preferred method as the coating (2 - 3 light coats worked well for me) does not seem to affect any setting. The extra purchase works for regular operation as well, not just for the intersecting-line operation. If you want to remove the coating for any reason, use mineral spirits. Try this on a metal surface if you aren't sure, and follow the instructions on the can.
 

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[member=57948]ChuckM[/member]
Since it's made for stairs and such, I assume the coating does not rub off easily and you don't need to reapply it?
 
The coating has been on the fence for over 4 months now, and the grip is still there. I have not recoated it since.

It is for internal and external use, and the can says it is good on wood, metal and concrete.

Bonus: Use it on clamp handles, and you can't be happier.

Just make sure you follow the instructions on spraying and drying time (kinda picky like the instructions for spraying polyurethane).
 
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