Cheese
Member
What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?
luvmytoolz
Member
A local toolshop had a similar Milwaukee one at a fantastic price so I bought a bunch and keep one in numerous locations as well as gave one to all family members as they're just so handy!
The amount of times I've needed to use the one I keep in the ute is amazing!
onocoffee
Member
Cheese
Member
Stainless ballbearing hinges with a removable pin.
I've found stainless hinges, ball bearing hinges and hinges with a removable pin but this is the first time I was able to purchase a hinge with all 3 options. They're offered by CRP with a nicely done brushed 4B finish.
I've found stainless hinges, ball bearing hinges and hinges with a removable pin but this is the first time I was able to purchase a hinge with all 3 options. They're offered by CRP with a nicely done brushed 4B finish.
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onocoffee
Member
Went to the Brown Tool Auction Dealer Show today and picked up this Stanley Bailey Type 10 No. 4 1/2 plane for $60. Overall, it’s in good condition for its age with no rust but the metal of the sole is a bit scratched and gouged on the left side. I don’t think it will interfere with flatness or operation of the plane.
I’ve really been enjoying working in some hand tools into the woodworking lately.
I’ve really been enjoying working in some hand tools into the woodworking lately.
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luvmytoolz
Member
Nice!
I reckon it's always a good day when you can walk away with a nice hand plane! I'm definitely a sucker for them.
Michael Kellough
Member
To find out if the gouge is an issue, I’d draw a pattern of Sharpie marks across the entire sole. Tape a full sheet of 600 grit silicon carbide abrasive paper to the flattest surface you have, either a tablesaw or a big sheet of stone tile. Then strike the plane sole (blade withdrawn) across the abrasive a couple times. Check the sole to see where the high spots are. If the gouge is deep it would have displaced some iron making a high spot and the Sharpie marks would be erased, unless a previous owner took care of it.
If there are still very localized high spots they can be scraped down. I use the back side of 4” wall scraper blades. The square edge is hard and sharp enough to remove a little material. You can bend it a little to reduce the length of the blade that contacts the sole so you don’t add scratches in good areas. It’s better to take a little too much off in a small area than leave a high spot.
Then do a couple more swipes across the abrasive. You don’t necessarily have to erase all the marks, just get a pattern that indicates the plane is supported by the perimeter (so it doesn’t rock). However, if the the plane heavy use on edges (narrower than the plane) then it might have become concave and you’ll need to get serious above flattening the sole, if the plane is worth fettling for use. This is just stage one.
By the way those wall scraper blades are also good for general scraping of wood. Not as effective as a properly set up cabinet scraper you get instant gratification by just popping a new blade out of the pack.
Cheese
Member
304 stainless steel large radius elbows for PEX tubing...compare the normal brass elbow to the large radius elbow...the large radius elbow probably provides at least a 25% gain in flow volume. It's also nice because if you use the traditional large radius copper elbow for PEX tubing, you'll then also need to sweat solder PEX connections on to each end of the elbow. Here's a neat package which simplifies the installation. The stainless PEX fittings are made by Boshart...a Canadian manufacturer...famous for their stainless valves.
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