I'm currently running a bead profile on 1/2" red oak 10' long trim on my router table. I have a Grizzly baby feeder running vertically to keep the wood against my Incra Superfence that is modified with 8020 extrusions to stiffen it and allow the use of standard finger holdowns vertically and horizontally after the cutter bit. I've run hundreds of feet this way, so much better than hand feeding.
What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?
Tom the Remodeler
Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2007
- Messages
- 1,106
Hi Packard,
Yeah, I'm on-record as being pretty outspoken on my dislike of using table saws for anything other than cross-cutting. If I'm going to use a saw to rip lumber, I'm happy to use my bandsaw, where there's no risk of kick-back events.
In terms of power feeders, I'm not aware of any shapers which ship with a power feeder, other than perhaps a Martin T27 or Felder profil 92M, both of which utilize an integrated feeder arm. Otherwise, nearly every shaper on the market ships without a power feeder, since there is such a variety of options that it would be a fool's errand for a manufacturer to guess which feeder a given customer would want.
The power feeder is partially what makes the shaper such a powerful, and safe machine. The power feeder provides for consistent downward pressure and feed rate, and keeps the user at a safe distance from the milling area.
Yeah, I'm on-record as being pretty outspoken on my dislike of using table saws for anything other than cross-cutting. If I'm going to use a saw to rip lumber, I'm happy to use my bandsaw, where there's no risk of kick-back events.
In terms of power feeders, I'm not aware of any shapers which ship with a power feeder, other than perhaps a Martin T27 or Felder profil 92M, both of which utilize an integrated feeder arm. Otherwise, nearly every shaper on the market ships without a power feeder, since there is such a variety of options that it would be a fool's errand for a manufacturer to guess which feeder a given customer would want.
The power feeder is partially what makes the shaper such a powerful, and safe machine. The power feeder provides for consistent downward pressure and feed rate, and keeps the user at a safe distance from the milling area.
Tom the Remodeler
Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2007
- Messages
- 1,106
rst said:
Hi rst,
Yeah, having used power feeders for several years now I can't imagine going back to hand-feeding a router table, let alone a shaper, I'm glad to hear you're getting good service from the little Grizzly feeder.
Ryobi BD4600
Met up with a guy on Marketplace who sold me his older Ryobi 4"x36" Belt & 6" Disc Sander for $50. It's in used but good condition in the old blue. Looks to be pretty much the same as the current model Ryobi, Wen, Rikon, Bauer, etc.
Met up with a guy on Marketplace who sold me his older Ryobi 4"x36" Belt & 6" Disc Sander for $50. It's in used but good condition in the old blue. Looks to be pretty much the same as the current model Ryobi, Wen, Rikon, Bauer, etc.
I have the Ridgid bench top oscillating sander and I use it at least once a week. From what I can tell, the oscillating feature simply extends the life of the belt by spreading the wear across a larger swath.
This is what I have. It was about $200.00 when I bought mine. It is around $300.00 now.
I see that Home Depot has an economy version from Ridgid for $150.00. It appears to only lack the enclosed chassis.
As much as I use it, I would likely buy it again even at the higher cost.
Advice: I find it is easier to use when I can see exactly the contact area. That would mean that the work surface is about waist high. My work tables are already built, so I use a step stool to achieve that point of view. Not ideal, but OK. I don’t have dust control and this kicks up quite a bit of dust. Keep that in mind when you find a home for it in your shop.
A very useful piece of equipment.
Here’s the new model, also from Home Depot. I see the older model selling for $46.00 on line from a vendor I never heard of. That might be a scam or it might be old surplus new machines.
Below is a screen capture:
I see the $46.00 price is from Costco. So maybe not a scam. But note the online address which looks suspiciously un-Costco-like: vepzfr.shop
https://vepzfr.shop/products/ridgid...9d_vrDsWQVeOe8lmDCdtL9MrhimYFXgkaAu7-EALw_wcB
This is what I have. It was about $200.00 when I bought mine. It is around $300.00 now.
I see that Home Depot has an economy version from Ridgid for $150.00. It appears to only lack the enclosed chassis.
As much as I use it, I would likely buy it again even at the higher cost.
Advice: I find it is easier to use when I can see exactly the contact area. That would mean that the work surface is about waist high. My work tables are already built, so I use a step stool to achieve that point of view. Not ideal, but OK. I don’t have dust control and this kicks up quite a bit of dust. Keep that in mind when you find a home for it in your shop.
A very useful piece of equipment.
Here’s the new model, also from Home Depot. I see the older model selling for $46.00 on line from a vendor I never heard of. That might be a scam or it might be old surplus new machines.
Below is a screen capture:
I see the $46.00 price is from Costco. So maybe not a scam. But note the online address which looks suspiciously un-Costco-like: vepzfr.shop
https://vepzfr.shop/products/ridgid...9d_vrDsWQVeOe8lmDCdtL9MrhimYFXgkaAu7-EALw_wcB
[member=74278]Packard[/member] I recently got the skeleton model from my local HD for $129. My understanding is that it is an updated version of the enclosed model. However, I have not taken it out of the box yet. Still need to make a space for it to land!
Michael Kellough
Member
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2007
- Messages
- 7,101
[member=74278]Packard[/member] thanks for posting that! Learned something new today.
The new model is not available to anyone in New York City.
Searching stores in various boroughs online only brings up the $299 enclosed base model.
Changed store location to Poughkeepsie and there it is.
One reason the new version costs less is it does not have the “lifetime” warranty. Just 5 years.
Went so far as to add the new version to cart to be delivered to my zip code and the price became $199 with “FREE” delivery. Going further and the “scheduled delivery is no longer available”.
Weirdly HD lets me buy all kinds of weird stuff from 3rd party venders but won’t let me buy something that is exclusive to them.
By the way, Costco doesn’t sell any kind of belt sander.
The new model is not available to anyone in New York City.
Searching stores in various boroughs online only brings up the $299 enclosed base model.
Changed store location to Poughkeepsie and there it is.
One reason the new version costs less is it does not have the “lifetime” warranty. Just 5 years.
Went so far as to add the new version to cart to be delivered to my zip code and the price became $199 with “FREE” delivery. Going further and the “scheduled delivery is no longer available”.
Weirdly HD lets me buy all kinds of weird stuff from 3rd party venders but won’t let me buy something that is exclusive to them.
By the way, Costco doesn’t sell any kind of belt sander.
hdv
Member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2017
- Messages
- 671
I have a model from Triton that is very similar in looks and price.
[attachimg=1]
To be honest, I don't like it. Primarily because the fixed an folding part of the table are not in the same plane. There is always a small height difference causing the workpiece to tilt. I am considering making a wooden plate that can be placed on top of the table to see if I like the machine better like that. Or I might sell it off and buy a proper bobbin belt/spindle sander.
[attachimg=1]
To be honest, I don't like it. Primarily because the fixed an folding part of the table are not in the same plane. There is always a small height difference causing the workpiece to tilt. I am considering making a wooden plate that can be placed on top of the table to see if I like the machine better like that. Or I might sell it off and buy a proper bobbin belt/spindle sander.
Attachments
Michael Kellough said:
But the link (which may be a scam) does show them selling one:
https://vepzfr.shop/products/ridgid...9d_vrDsWQVeOe8lmDCdtL9MrhimYFXgkaAu7-EALw_wcB
It is a scam, source: https://gridinsoft.com/online-virus-scanner/url/vepzfr-shop.Packard said:
gwendal said:
When I originally posted that site, I mentioned that the domain name sounded “off” and I suggested it might be a scam.
The weird thing about that tool, is it comes with a removable “key” that would prevent unauthorized use. It is the only power tool that I have that came with a key, and is possibly the least dangerous of them all.
If anyone buys one (and I like mine a lot), keep in mind that if you lose the key, Home Depot does not know you. They would not order one for me, and they would not tell me where to get one. I forget where I found the replacement key, but I was on my own.
That is the only complaint I have about the machine.
It was the solution I found when my attempts to use a router table trim my scroll sawn toys to size. Bringing the blanks to the sander was quicker and did a nicer job. I produced 65 toys and each took about 5 minutes. So about 300 minutes (5 hours). It saved me a ton of time and went faster and fast as I gained some proficiency.
In any case, a useful tool.
I have a disc grinder blade for my table saw, but I never liked the process. It would solve the dust collection issue though. I might take another look at it.
onocoffee said:
I found that it is easiest to use if the top plate of the sander is at waist height. Which would call for a very low bench. I stand on a rolling library step to get to a comfortable working height.
I would consider making a small, low table on casters. You need a small amount of table on either side of the sander to place pieces ready to work on, and for completed pieces.
In my experience, this call for a very low table, or even a shelf. If you figure out dust collection, please post.
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 4,928
I finally got around to replacing one of the simplest tools ever...awl.
Somewhere a few months ago, someone "borrowed" a few small tools from me. One of the bosses actually delivered them to him, on-site. When they were returned, no one seems to know where that awl went? The guy who used them, says he never got it. The guy who took them says he delivered everything I gave him. [huh]
Long story short.......no one cares, except the guy who loses. [unsure]
They will, eventually. No, will be the answer next time. [mad]
All that to say, I ordered a Wera 1427 from Amazon, not really paying attention to the seller. Turns out it was KC Tools, and they sent a play on words along with it. "A bit of thanks" Literally a PH2 driver bit
Every few years I have to have a bit of a freak-out and tell everyone to "buy it yourself, just like I did". Then, slowly, over time, I end up doing it, just to get the job done. My own fault, I guess. [embarassed]
Somewhere a few months ago, someone "borrowed" a few small tools from me. One of the bosses actually delivered them to him, on-site. When they were returned, no one seems to know where that awl went? The guy who used them, says he never got it. The guy who took them says he delivered everything I gave him. [huh]
Long story short.......no one cares, except the guy who loses. [unsure]
They will, eventually. No, will be the answer next time. [mad]
All that to say, I ordered a Wera 1427 from Amazon, not really paying attention to the seller. Turns out it was KC Tools, and they sent a play on words along with it. "A bit of thanks" Literally a PH2 driver bit
Every few years I have to have a bit of a freak-out and tell everyone to "buy it yourself, just like I did". Then, slowly, over time, I end up doing it, just to get the job done. My own fault, I guess. [embarassed]
Attachments
There was a period in my life when I would end up buying a new awl every 4 or 5 years because I could not find the ones I had.
The “missing” awls show up periodically and as recently as last year there were 3 on my pegboard (now back down to one).
I have no idea why these would walk off on me—it does not happen with my other tools (nearly as much).
A good awl in conjunction with a brad point drill set, pretty much guarantees my holes goe exactly where I intended them.
Surprisingly, my leather working awl, which I have for about 50 years, has never gone missing (and it would be much harder to find a replacement for).
The “missing” awls show up periodically and as recently as last year there were 3 on my pegboard (now back down to one).
I have no idea why these would walk off on me—it does not happen with my other tools (nearly as much).
A good awl in conjunction with a brad point drill set, pretty much guarantees my holes goe exactly where I intended them.
Surprisingly, my leather working awl, which I have for about 50 years, has never gone missing (and it would be much harder to find a replacement for).
Crazyraceguy
Member
- Joined
- Oct 16, 2015
- Messages
- 4,928
I think this thing is a bit more serious than I thought. It has a continuous metal shank, through the top, intended for striking. I don't usually do that, but it doesn't hurt anything.
It has a much better grip too, more like a screwdriver handle. My original had that little knob, like a stubby screwdriver.
It has a much better grip too, more like a screwdriver handle. My original had that little knob, like a stubby screwdriver.
My favored “scratch awl” (“scratch” means it is not to be driven with a hammer or mallet) is the Stanley (about $10.00).
It has a fairly broad wood handle that allows me to press into even hard woods with just my palm, and it has a flat surface that keeps it from rolling off work tables (a surprisingly important design feature).
I suppose I could hit the handle on my other awls with a belt sander and accomplish the same. But at the price, It is just as easy to get the Stanley.
It has a fairly broad wood handle that allows me to press into even hard woods with just my palm, and it has a flat surface that keeps it from rolling off work tables (a surprisingly important design feature).
I suppose I could hit the handle on my other awls with a belt sander and accomplish the same. But at the price, It is just as easy to get the Stanley.
derekcohen
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2008
- Messages
- 933
In my modest opinion [cool] the very best awls are those I made. I have three ...
This is a birdcage awl, used for starting a hole for drilling or screws. Note that the "point" is square sided to facilitate cutting ...
This is a piecing awl, simply a reground Philips screw driver, which can be popped into a screwdriver. You can easily make your own ...
And thirdly, a scratch awl, for fine marking. This one was made by Chris Vesper but designed by myself ..
Regards from Perth
Derek
This is a birdcage awl, used for starting a hole for drilling or screws. Note that the "point" is square sided to facilitate cutting ...
This is a piecing awl, simply a reground Philips screw driver, which can be popped into a screwdriver. You can easily make your own ...
And thirdly, a scratch awl, for fine marking. This one was made by Chris Vesper but designed by myself ..
Regards from Perth
Derek
derekcohen
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2008
- Messages
- 933
Insert the Philips head into a cordless drill, and angle the end against a spinning disk sander. Nothing to it other than quenching in water to prevent it overheating (less likely if it is HSS).
I make the marking knives and awls in 2009, later made by Chris Vesper (a good friend). Here is the how-to: https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A Knife for Marking Dovetails.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
I make the marking knives and awls in 2009, later made by Chris Vesper (a good friend). Here is the how-to: https://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/A Knife for Marking Dovetails.html
Regards from Perth
Derek
