What - non Festool - tool / workshop related gizmo/stuff did you buy today?

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Interesting, did you actually use this blade in concrete or brick? How well did it work? I can't imagine it will last as long as a diamond blade.
I've used Bosch carbide blades in my OSC 18 & OS 400 on plaster walls and while they outlast a traditional HSS blade by 5-10 times, they still wear out fairly fast and that's only plaster...certainly not concrete block.
I'm using mine exclusively on timber, a huge 80 or so year old nectarine tree that chewed up the standard blades.

I've cut down probably half the tree now and 'm still on the first Temu blade, which handles cutting down the 4" to 18" diameter sections of the live greenwood into 2 foot long sections for the plant bin with ease, whereas the standard HSS Milwaukee bogged down within seconds.

The Besser style concrete blocks I would have thought it would work great on?
 
I've been thinking about getting a maul axe for splitting - maybe like an Ochsenkopf or Gransfors Bruk - and then came across this old Chopper 1 Made In USA axe that's in rusty and old condition, and missing the splitting parts (they still manufacture and sell the parts). Seller was asking $20 and I figured "how bad could it be?" and it will make an interesting project. Maybe even replace the handle at some point.

The axe is rusty but in pretty solid shape. The handle was old but still workable. I brought it home and thought "let's give it a go." Forget sharpening it, forget restoring it. Let's see how it is at this moment. Put a split piece on the chopping stump and took a swing.

Well, it's a bit longer than my Ochsenkopf Forestry Axe and I ended up hitting the split with the handle and the old thing split in half. So now it will be a Full Restoration project!
 

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Was the Milwaukee blade you used similar to these?
No, the teeth were way less aggressively set, they were more just standard ones for dry timber I know, but I was still pretty shocked at how instantly useless they were on the tree branches.

Most blades you can get to just power through usually.

They'll be fine for plaster and light stuff, but not for hogging timber.
 
No, the teeth were way less aggressively set, they were more just standard ones for dry timber I know, but I was still pretty shocked at how instantly useless they were on the tree branches.

Most blades you can get to just power through usually.

They'll be fine for plaster and light stuff, but not for hogging timber.
Did the teeth dull quickly or just immediately clog with wet debris? With tightly clogged gullets the action is pretty similar to dull teeth.
 
FWIW..,.Milwaukee has been offering that "Swedish Style Saw Blade" for at least the last 10? years. It was originally marketed by Skill as "The Ugly Blade" 2-3 years prior. It's the only blade I use to prune trees if I'm using a Sawzall. The gullets are deep, it has a relatively wide kerf and the teeth are razor sharp. It may be interesting to compare what you're using now to the Milwaukee offering. :unsure:

I've tried using a number of different Sawzall blades for cutting/pruning trees and none work as well as "The Ugly Blade" style.
Here are some Milwaukee Axe blades that work well on dry lumber but fail miserably on wet/green lumber. The tooth pattern and gullet size don't seem much different than the Temu version.
Always thinking about alternatives...:)
 

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Did the teeth dull quickly or just immediately clog with wet debris? With tightly clogged gullets the action is pretty similar to dull teeth.
They just clogged immediately, but having said that I did use them later on a piece of white oak and it was more of a struggle than I anticipated.

Overall i'm pretty impressed with the Temu ones, they've stood up to a lot of abuse and punched way above their grade.
 
Since I seem to monitor Facebook Marketplace at least as much as GoingMyWay monitors Recon, I come across some interesting things every now and then, like this Fein MM350Q in a T-Loc asking $80. Asked if he'd be willing to consider $50 and we had a deal. Overall, in good but used condition, I took it home and cleaned it up and it looks like it has the Starlock conversion, but since my old oscillating tool is old enough to not have Starlock, I'm not sure what that is.

Now, after seeing the MM500 PlugIt conversion thread, I'm thinking that might have to be in the works.

EDIT: As I was just watching a video about the FMM350Q vs QSL, I see that this one is the pre-StarLock 350Q. I don't know if that's an issue to be concerned about or if I should look for some kind of StarLock upgrade?
 

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Hey @onocoffee this is certainly not about you...but what normal person would mark the tool they own with the price they want with indelible marker on the plastic housing especially when he's already plastered the price on the outside of the Systainer? Indelible markers and plastic don't play well together. This isn't much different than spray painting your selling price on the body of your automobile. Very strange. :unsure: For me, that sin would always be an inflection point.

Hopefully, the previous owner wasn't...................................................
 
Hey @onocoffee this is certainly not about you...but what normal person would mark the tool they own with the price they want with indelible marker on the plastic housing especially when he's already plastered the price on the outside of the Systainer? Indelible markers and plastic don't play well together. This isn't much different than spray painting your selling price on the body of your automobile. Very strange. :unsure: For me, that sin would always be an inflection point.

Hopefully, the previous owner wasn't...................................................
I hear you. However, I wasn't too concerned about it because I've learned (via other purchases) that indelible marker can be removed fairly well by using a dry erase market to "color" over it and wiping off. Hopefully it works with this one.
 
I hear you. However, I wasn't too concerned about it because I've learned (via other purchases) that indelible marker can be removed fairly well by using a dry erase market to "color" over it and wiping off. Hopefully it works with this one.
I understand your position completely...my inquisitiveness borders more on why would a person do those things in the first place? Would you beat your dog? Would you beat your wife? Would you beat your child? So why would you "beat" your Fein? I just find it as strange behavior on the seller's point and that raises my alertness level, as in what other features of the tool did he/she have little to no consideration for?

In other words...would I lend that person a tool to use, not really as there is no way you'll be sure of the condition when/if it's returned to you.
 
I understand your position completely...my inquisitiveness borders more on why would a person do those things in the first place? Would you beat your dog? Would you beat your wife? Would you beat your child? So why would you "beat" your Fein? I just find it as strange behavior on the seller's point and that raises my alertness level, as in what other features of the tool did he/she have little to no consideration for?

In other words...would I lend that person a tool to use, not really as there is no way you'll be sure of the condition when/if it's returned to you.
Agreed. Which reminds me of a friend - who I became friends with because he married one of my friends. They were married for many years. Then one day, he met another woman and left his wife. It was shocking. She was devastated. Everyone hated/hates him. Except me. When it all went down, all the guys tried to call him to find out what was up. I just sent him a message: if you need to talk, let me know.

Why? Because quite a few years ago, he was working on a house project and asked to borrow my Ryobi 10" Miter Saw. I don't recall how long he used it for, but it was a little while. When he returned it, it was in great shape, cleaned up and he even included a brand new, unopened blade to show his gratitude. Always respected him for that.
 
Why? Because quite a few years ago, he was working on a house project and asked to borrow my Ryobi 10" Miter Saw. I don't recall how long he used it for, but it was a little while. When he returned it, it was in great shape, cleaned up and he even included a brand new, unopened blade to show his gratitude. Always respected him for that.
Wow, that's pretty rare! I've gotten sanders back full of plaster dust, drills with drill bits and/or the chuck key missing, broken tool case hinges, chipped carbide teeth, etc. I don't loan anything out at all now generally except in very exceptional circumstances.

I don't treat my tools as anything special, but I also don't go out of my way to abuse them, unfortunately others find this normal. Just a tool right?
 
Now, after seeing the MM500 PlugIt conversion thread, I'm thinking that might have to be in the works.

EDIT: As I was just watching a video about the FMM350Q vs QSL, I see that this one is the pre-StarLock 350Q. I don't know if that's an issue to be concerned about or if I should look for some kind of StarLock upgrade?
Something to consider...to eliminate the cord coiling problem, I just placed my Fein in a 1 size deeper Systainer. The insert fits and the extra depth prevents the cord from messing with the contents as well as preventing the cover from closing.
 

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Something to consider...to eliminate the cord coiling problem, I just placed my Fein in a 1 size deeper Systainer. The insert fits and the extra depth prevents the cord from messing with the contents as well as preventing the cover from closing.
At this point in time, I'm fascinated with how you are able to get an orange T-Loc!
 
I got a Milescraft Drillmate Pro for Chistmas. Its a pretty nice. Here are my thoughts in no particular order.
  • Its much bigger then I expected.
  • I like the half inch chuck.
  • All the bearings and bushings are tight. No wobble that I could detect. (I had bought one of the Woodpecker chinese knockoffs last fall. It was pretty nice, except the bushings on the slides were very loose. I returned it).
  • Overall the build quality is good to great. Some reasonable compromises needed to be made to make the price point.
  • Update: Milescraft sent me two new centering pins that are perfectly straight.
    The only problem is with the self centering pins. The threaded part of the pin is not in line with the part that contacts the work piece. This makes the pins unusable for their intended purpose. I sent Milescraft and email on this issue. Hopefully they have a replacement set that are straight.
  • Overall it is a keeper. I will not use it that often, but I am confident it will do the job.
 
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