Which Blade is best for KS-60 Miter Saw

Intex

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Aug 16, 2016
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I just got my new KS-60, here in the US , but it came with a 36 tooth blade (500124). If I will be doing precision cuts on hardwoods (Walnut), both crosscut and rip, is it best to get  a blade with more teeth? Which Festool blade would that be, and any ideas where to buy one in the US?

The KS-60 is just the right size for the jobs I have in mind, and hope it works out nice. The UG stand and adapter for the KS60 so far seem very sturdy and easy to move around, especially with the lighter weight.

If there is nothing here in the US, I can always order a blade from Europe.
 
Well, obviously if the saw isn't offered here there won't be any Festool blades offered here either.  I might suggest that you try your blade first before going out on the search for a better.  I offer this because although I have the finer blade for my bigger Kapex I prefer the standard blade.

Hopefully some on the other side of the pond can give more insight.

Peter
 
Intex said:
I just got my new KS-60, here in the US , but it came with a 36 tooth blade (500124). If I will be doing precision cuts on hardwoods (Walnut), both crosscut and rip,...

Sorry, I can't give you advice about the blade, but I do want to share I learned the hard way that using a sliding compound mitersaw for ripcuts is a bad idea. You will get a kickback sooner or later, and that will very likely result in a bent fence.

(Alltough I must admit, that after having the fence replaced on my makita ls1013 in 2001, I have made ripcuts on it, but always with a longish sacrificial piece of wood between the piece to be cut and the fence)
 
I own a KS60 and believe the standard blade will serve you very well. Like others, I would not recommend rip cutting on a compound saw due to the high risk of injury to both yourself and the saw.

As to specific blades for rip cutting, be it a track or bench saw, you will notice they have less teeth and usually larger teeth than normal and fine cutting blades. This helps to prevent binding and adjusts the cutting angle of the teeth to the grain when compared to cross cutting.
 
Please please do not do rip cuts with a miter saw. The tool is not designed for that task.

There is a reason that table saws have strong trunions, kick back pawls, and a long fence.

 
Thanks for the information, I was about to begin some ripping, but Ill take your advice and get the Track Saw out for that.
 
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