Which glue for Ipe end-grain to end-grain..Deck Q.

Tymbian

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May 28, 2016
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Long story short. On a possible upcoming project I need to 'picture-frame' a curved deck using Ipe. I'm thinking cut into arc sections, domino and glue then form the curve using a router. Any tried and tested glues worth considering?
 
I've worked with ipe and I hate it. But when the customer pulls out the checkbook, they call the shots. I use it if there's enough youthful labor to carry it around. [emoji2369] You'll find that it's hard on carbide blades and bits. Nevertheless, I want to help you if I can. [emoji16]

Here's a WoodWeb article that may help you find the best solution.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Gluing_Ipe_Wood_for_Outdoor_Exposures.html

I would recommend that you use a mechanical fastener such as domino connectors and plugs (I know, corrosion potential.) or a pinned tenon made from the ipe.

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Tymbian said:
Long story short. On a possible upcoming project I need to 'picture-frame' a curved deck using Ipe. I'm thinking cut into arc sections, domino and glue then form the curve using a router. Any tried and tested glues worth considering?

I’d suggest you do a search on the FOG  because there have been many posts on using Ipe for decking projects.
 
ProCarpenterRVA said:
I've worked with ipe and I hate it. But when the customer pulls out the checkbook, they call the shots. I use it if there's enough youthful labor to carry it around. [emoji2369] You'll find that it's hard on carbide blades and bits. Nevertheless, I want to help you if I can. [emoji16]

Much appreciated..

I would recommend that you use a mechanical fastener such as domino connectors and plugs (I know, corrosion potential.) or a pinned tenon made from the ipe.

I had ( sort of ) already ruled out the domino-fix idea because of the potential corrosion issues. Do you think a pinned tennon is the only way to go or would a hardwood domino and glue suffice?
 
I've built 3 Ipe decks at my house in the last 5 years and I've had good luck with Titebond III for gluing up 32 post wraps...they're also screwed and plugged about 8" OC.  For your application I would consider doing a lap joint with 1" to 1 1/2" of overlap but I expect a Domino joint could also provide sufficient long grain to long grain surface to work well.  I always did my glue-ups immediately after final machining of the mating surfaces without any solvent cleaning and it has held up very nicely.
 
West Systems G Flex has a little give which helps.  WS has great technical help so give them a call.  I’ve used G Flex on Ipe and it has held up well.  Lap joints and mechanical fasteners would help.  Slightly loose joint for epoxy.  I also warm up joints or end grain with a hot air gun right before gluing (no proof this actually helps long term). Rather than gluing boards together consider a gap that matches the rest of decking and make it part of design. 

Is the framing design as indestructible as the Ipe?
https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

Smith’s also makes an Epoxy for oily woods.  WS seems easier to find, plus I have a free source locally for WS.  I’d still would use WS even if I had to buy it.  I have used Smith's with good results also.
http://www.glueoakandteak.com

 
kevinculle said:
I've had good luck with Titebond III

I've heard titebond III mentioned before

I'll also check out west systems and see if its available in the UK.
As for the sub-frame it'll be going on PT C24 with a butyl joist-tape added. Although it going at ground level +140mm the sub-frame will all be free draining
 
I made a bunch of Ipe benches. I used Sipo tenons and glued some of them with 2 part epoxy and some with TB III. After about 5 years outdoors, the benches are still solid. I did pin the tenons from the undersides of the benches. I found the TB III much easier to work with than the epoxy.

I cleaned the mortises with alcohol before gluing. I think that helps the glue to work better.

BTW, Ipe dust can really bother some people. I wore a mask while cutting the wood and a long shower as soon as I finished working.

Also, I recommend sealing the end grain immediately after cutting. Ipe tends to develop cracks very quickly.
 
+1 on the solvent prior to gluing, it is pretty much a must. Oily woods will stop the glue from getting the appropriate grab because of a layer of oil, wipe your joint with mineral spirits, acetone, or lacquer thinner just prior to gluing. Pretty much as soon as it has evaporated, it's time to glue.

+100 on the masks, while we should all be doing this any time we are creating ANY kind of dust, tropical woods can be pretty nasty.

Good luck!!!
 
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