Which Mitre Saw- Can't afford Kapex (Yet...)?

[jools]

Use the angle fence as normal and that gives you the angle read off the mitre scale to set the bevel angle to cut your large base board flat. Simples

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks!

Can you clarify how big a crown you can cut in the "nested position"? The manual says 6 5/8" capacity in nested position.

Does that mean a 6 5/8" wide crown (so roughly 4 1/2" high up the fence), or is this 6 5/8" high up the fence, so closer to an 8.8" wide piece of crown?

(not sure if the pictures will show up below, but here is my idea)

Hope that makes sense.

Use the angle fence as normal and that gives you the angle read off the mitre scale to set the bevel angle to cut your large base board flat. Simples

 

[Harvey]

Here's a 6 5/8" piece of scrap oak in the nested position. There's not enough capacity for anything bigger.

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for taking the time to share that picture Harvey!!!

Here's a 6 5/8" piece of scrap oak in the nested position. There's not enough capacity for anything bigger.

 

[Just F Me]

Do you guys think a 2nd generation Kapex is in the works?

 

[Stephen B]

[size=14pt]

If memory serves me correctly, Shane has previously denied any changes in the medium outlook.

Does anyone in UK own both a 240 and 110V Kapex?

We seem to get critical remarks from NA more than UK and Europe, not withstanding the greater numbers of NA FOG members.

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I have birth the Kapex and the bosch 4412L. I still use both, Bosch for regular bases and cutting 2x material, kapex for crown and trim. Both are great saws but the Bosch weighs 67lbs. 20 more than the kapex. I have The rolling gravity stand for the Bosch. If you transport the bosch with the rolling stand you need to strap it in or lay it flat, it will tip over in transport easily.

I had the cut and crown. Kind of work good. I prefer a bracket/ board clamped on the miter saw. I sold mine, they are a little confusing with up side down, facedown, right side up lol. I am much faster with the regular miter saw technique 

 

[Grasshopper]

I've heard that Bosch is pretty sweet. 

How is the dust collection of the Bosch compared to the Kapex?  Cut quality?

I have birth the Kapex and the bosch 4412L. I still use both, Bosch for regular bases and cutting 2x material, kapex for crown and trim. Both are great saws but the Bosch weighs 67lbs. 20 more than the kapex. I have The rolling gravity stand for the Bosch. If you transport the bosch with the rolling stand you need to strap it in or lay it flat, it will tip over in transport easily.

I had the cut and crown. Kind of work good. I prefer a bracket/ board clamped on the miter saw. I sold mine, they are a little confusing with up side down, facedown, right side up lol. I am much faster with the regular miter saw technique

 

[JLB builders LLC]

Cut quality is great with a toothy 60-90 blade. Dust collection... Will collect on everything around it lol. Not that bad but not as good as a kapex with 2-1/2" hose

 

[RC]

Well, if I could travel back in time I would not purchase my Bosch GCM 10 S Professional again even though there is nothing technically wrong with it and after aligning it it cuts quite repeatably straight, but what ever I do (36mm hose, CT26) it spews tons of dust all over the place and the slider arrangement makes it cumbersome to store, transport and setup anywhere near a wall.

One of those 'I hadn't heard of the Festool make before I purchased this tool' moments.  [crying]

I would gladly throw that 1700€ at a Kapex UG set if I got anything near descent money for my old Bosch and its stand. Unfortunately  their resell value is close to nothing so I'm stuck with the Bosch stuff for the foreseeable future as the boss won't let me just get another miter saw before the previous one has left the building feet first. (And I highly doubt that I will ever be able to kill the Bosch with my amount of hobby use)

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I'm lucky enough to have a general framing, outside columns, decks etc trailer with the Bosch 4412l gravity rise stand, Bosch table saw and Bosch circular saw with other tools for that kinda work and then the new custom car hauler work shop with festools and trim/crown- cabinet making tools.

I do use the Bosch 4412L for base, chair rail and some filler cutting.

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks for the reply.  Do you have a strong preference between your Bosch vs. your Kapex?

I'm lucky enough to have a general framing, outside columns, decks etc trailer with the Bosch 4412l gravity rise stand, Bosch table saw and Bosch circular saw with other tools for that kinda work and then the new custom car hauler work shop with festools and trim/crown- cabinet making tools.

I do use the Bosch 4412L for base, chair rail and some filler cutting.

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I prefer the kapex. Depends on the job, the Bosch is a great saw. I have had dewalt mitre saws and cordless tools and can't stand dewalt now. I buy festool, Bosch, porter cable/delta and sometimes Milwaukee. Just my preference

I also had problems many years ago with a Ridgid cordless drill and mitre saw switch, I'm sure the company has solved those problems but stay away from them also.

I have an 8-1/4 delta baby mitre saw that is still kicking. Great for cutting 2x, 1x, and shoe as long as it is getting coped. All aluminum, no guard any more, lighter than a circular saw and about 24 yrs old haha

 

[Grasshopper]

Cool.  Thanks for the reply.  I am leaning hard towards the Kapex.

———————Slippery—————Slope——————————> [eek]

I suppose I have my old 8" Hitachi that can be my 2x4 framing "chop saw" (I know it should be able to take it, but I swear I'd feel bad chopping 2x's with the Kapex…I suppose unless I cut inside

I prefer the kapex. Depends on the job, the Bosch is a great saw. I have had dewalt mitre saws and cordless tools and can't stand dewalt now. I buy festool, Bosch, porter cable/delta and sometimes Milwaukee. Just my preference

I also had problems many years ago with a Ridgid cordless drill and mitre saw switch, I'm sure the company has solved those problems but stay away from them also.

I have an 8-1/4 delta baby mitre saw that is still kicking. Great for cutting 2x, 1x, and shoe as long as it is getting coped. All aluminum, no guard any more, lighter than a circular saw and about 24 yrs old haha

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I had the 8" hitachi compound slide. Awkward to cut a lot of 2x material because the slide arm and motor always seemed low. Great for 1x material. Not so great for crown or trim with the short back fence. I gave mine my best friend last year. Think I had that saw for 22 years? Lol

Heads up if you get a kapex keep a 3/4 scrap of finish grade plywood for cutting shoe moulding. That is the only negative thing about the saw. Will shatter the trim in your fingers and scare the crap out of you. My Bosch 4412 cuts shoe fine. Sometimes I will have both saws set up. One for base and one for shoe.

 

[festooltim]

My Kapex used to shatter shoe sometimes but after I put on the fine blade it doesn't do that anymore. I wouldn't give up my Kepex even if you pried it from my cold dead fingers. Since you are stationary I don't think the da what is a bad way to go just upgrade to a good blade. As a diy you could put that money to better use. Just my thoughts but it's whatever makes you happy.

 

[justinh]

It has the potential to do more than scare you.  I was reading a discussion on another forum where a carpenter had a drop get dragged into the blade and broke pieces off the saw on day one out of the box.  I was trimming out a basement a while back and another carpenter was cutting small mouldings.  The drop from one of his cuts got thrown into the blade guard with enough force that it pushed the blade guard into the spinning blade reducing it to high velocity shrapnel bombarding him and the area around him. The blade on the saw was a Festool 80 tooth. I make cuts in small mouldings without back up on my saws all the time and while I have had the occasional  thrown off cut I have never experienced the  aforemention problems with any of them.

Grasshopper,
Before getting too far into your projects order the DVD series from Gary Katz.  It is basical comprehensive course in the basics of finish carpentry.  Knowledge has more value than any tool.

 

[Max Fracas]

I agree with Reiska.  I don't have a Bosch, but if I hadn't gone with the Dewalt 780 and stand, I'd be saving pennies up to get the Kapex. 

Having said that, I'm a hobby user and if I'm careful with the Dewalt I find it accurate enough on straightforward 90 degree cuts.  But even after tweaking to get the sawblade square etc., I find that I still have to be careful because the blade can  deflect quite a bit.  This is especially true for bevel cuts. 

I have an extractor connected to the saw but even with it the saw puts a lot of dust into the air.  I've been meaning to build a hood to improve that but you know how that goes.  Not sure what bothers me more -- the constant need to be aware of blade deflection or the poor dust collection.  I'm in a small space, and more and more I think the poor dust collection is a reason to part with the Dewalt.  I can try switching to the tablesaw (also bad with dust) or my TS75 as subs for a SCMS, but I know I can be more accurate and breathe easier with a Kapex (and a homebuilt stand -- thanks, Peter Parfitt!).   

 

[Grasshopper]

Thanks again for the new replies.  I am soaking it all in.  The FOG is indeed a very cool place.  Good tools…great company.

Heads up if you get a kapex keep a 3/4 scrap of finish grade plywood for cutting shoe moulding. That is the only negative thing about the saw. Will shatter the trim in your fingers and scare the crap out of you.

JLB Builders, LLC - Is the 3/4 scrap to make a zero clearance fence? or what do you use that for to avoid the small moulding exploding in your face?  I had read that if you try to shave off a small piece of a board you can have a surprise.  Hmmmmmmm

Since you are stationary I don't think the da what is a bad way to go just upgrade to a good blade. As a diy you could put that money to better use. Just my thoughts but it's whatever makes you happy.

Festooltim - I assume you were trying to say "I don't think the Dewalt is a bad way to go just upgrade to a good blade" (instead of da what), is that correct?  (auto-correct always get me too  [big grin]) 

Thanks for your feedback.  It has been a tough decision, because I assume I could make due with the Dewalt (many DIY's and Pros seem to).  My concern is if my proficiency ever catches up with my enthusiasm, I'd hate to find myself 12 months later spotting flaws in my miters that would have been eliminated had I used the Kapex (that I wouldn't have noticed before this new hobby/obsession).  If that were the case, the extra few hundred dollars today would have absolutely been worth it (and "future me" would really appreciate all the features of the Kapex that "current me" doesn't even know how to use. 

I tend to do this with hobbies as I am sure many do (and really need to land in a "cheap" hobby).  With photography, I found the slippery slope of better cameras and lenses and ultimately grew to know an appreciate their advantages (to tolerate the prices), same with audio gear….upgrade-itis is a real thing... ;D...sigh, I digress.

It has the potential to do more than scare you.  I was reading a discussion on another forum where a carpenter had a drop get dragged into the blade and broke pieces off the saw on day one out of the box.  I was trimming out a basement a while back and another carpenter was cutting small mouldings.  The drop from one of his cuts got thrown into the blade guard with enough force that it pushed the blade guard into the spinning blade reducing it to high velocity shrapnel bombarding him and the area around him. The blade on the saw was a Festool 80 tooth. I make cuts in small mouldings without back up on my saws all the time and while I have had the occasional  thrown off cut I have never experienced the  aforemention problems with any of them.

Grasshopper,
Before getting too far into your projects order the DVD series from Gary Katz.  It is basical comprehensive course in the basics of finish carpentry.  Knowledge has more value than any tool.

Thanks Justinh - I think I read that thread.  Super scary indeed.  Safety is actually the reason I bought my first Festool.  I was looking for table saw alternatives when I got my TS55. 

I was close to buying a SawStop, but even then was worried about kickback.  I've decided not to have a table saw in my shop, and love how my TS55 and OF1400 seem to be a suitable replacement to a table saw (and then some). 

Reading about the Kapex and small moldings gave me serious pause.  Is it still a problem when you cut several inches off the throw away piece (vs. shaving a small piece off)?  I personally don't see myself making a zero clearance fence (or even just building up an auxiliary fence) since I really would want to use the Festool clamp, and also maximize my nested crown capacity.  If that is what is necessary to keep myself safe, the Kapex may not be for me.  (I'd opt for more caulk in my miters from the Dewalt, vs. flinching every time I cut small moulding with the Kapex).

Also, great tip on the Gary Katz DVD's.  I checked out some reviews and it seems like people love his series.  A little pricy, but hey I agree that knowledge is power.  Are there cheaper DVD series' "alternatives" out there that are pretty good, or is the Katz series the "holy grail" of A-Z trim carpentry?

I agree with Reiska.  I don't have a Bosch, but if I hadn't gone with the Dewalt 780 and stand, I'd be saving pennies up to get the Kapex. 

Having said that, I'm a hobby user and if I'm careful with the Dewalt I find it accurate enough on straightforward 90 degree cuts.  But even after tweaking to get the sawblade square etc., I find that I still have to be careful because the blade can  deflect quite a bit.  This is especially true for bevel cuts.   

Max Fracas - So are you saying that your Dewalt 780 does a pretty good job, but you still wish you had purchased the Kapex as a hobby user?

 

[JLB builders LLC]

The 3/4 plywood is my zero clearance. I don't cut all the way through it and have a 1x for a back fence to hold the shoe.