Which tool can I use to make this perfect mitered cut repeatedly????

[pmac101]

Have a job coming up where we have to clad walls with 8" tongue & groove planks.
All the outside corners we have to miter and install a decorative metal trim piece (pic attached)
I was thinking of lining up 10 pieces and doing 1 pass with the track saw to make the miter. Then moving the track back slightly and making a 2nd pass with another track saw set at the correct depth to make the groove for the metal trim piece.
Anyone have any other suggestions?
I don't have the MFT table but this job is big enough to make it worth buying it if it would make life easier.

 

[Vondawg]

I think I'd make up (glue up) the corners and then line up the guide rail to slot the mitered corner for the metal and epoxy it in...
In the shop....probably do the same but with the table saw. I think I could control the kerf width better this way.

 

[Birdhunter]

I would cut the 45 degree miter first. I'd then use a hand saw to carefully cut the back side of the slot where the metal insert goes. From the photo, it looks like the hand saw cut would be about 1/4". I'd then use a table saw jig and a dado blade to cut main slot for the metal insert. I would definitely use a backing board on the dado cut to avoid blowing out the back of the cut. The preliminary hand saw cut is to avoid splintering the dado cut as well.

If you are really good with a bandsaw, cutting the slit for the metal insert would be fairly easy. I'd miter the 45 degree cuts and then bandsaw the slot on each half if the miter.

 

[Brent Taylor]

The person using any tool that cuts miters, with practice. 

 

[Rick Christopherson]

All the outside corners we have to miter and install a decorative metal trim piece (pic attached)

Think outside the box. You're visualizing that strip of metal captured by the miter. Do the reverse. You'll probably also get a much cleaner joint.

I would make up a concealed corner piece that contained the metal strip. This would be secured to the wall separately. Then each of your finish boards would have an end miter but also a rabbet. These could be glued and/or nailed to the corner piece.

[attachimg=1]

 

[atomicmike]

Using Rick's method, you could even cut the rabbet a little bit longer than needed, and cut the miter 1-2º sharper than needed. That way, only the very tip of the miter would actually be touching the metal strip, so achieving a gap-free corner would be much easier.

 

[rmwarren]

All the outside corners we have to miter and install a decorative metal trim piece (pic attached)

Think outside the box. You're visualizing that strip of metal captured by the miter. Do the reverse. You'll probably also get a much cleaner joint.

I would make up a concealed corner piece that contained the metal strip. This would be secured to the wall separately. Then each of your finish boards would have an end miter but also a rabbet. These could be glued and/or nailed to the corner piece.

[attachimg=1]

That's a great method, accounts for the issues you would run into onsite trying to get everything aligned properly.

Love it.

RMW

 

[peter halle]

I definitely like Rick's idea!

Peter

 

[itchy]

All the outside corners we have to miter and install a decorative metal trim piece (pic attached)

Think outside the box. You're visualizing that strip of metal captured by the miter. Do the reverse. You'll probably also get a much cleaner joint.

I would make up a concealed corner piece that contained the metal strip. This would be secured to the wall separately. Then each of your finish boards would have an end miter but also a rabbet. These could be glued and/or nailed to the corner piece.

[attachimg=1]

+1

 

[roblg3]

Rick's method is great.  atomic mike's suggestions just add to the already great idea!  it's only inportant that the point of the miter touch the metal.  It gives you  some wiggle room and is just damn smart too!

 

[kevin clifford]

I actually had this same sort of detail in a recent project I did . In the sapele  that I was using the gaps had to be spot on because dark stain and an aluminum bar means it shows and glares like a mistake with a neon arrow pointing to it. I found cutting all my parts to length on a crosscut sled and then using a second sacrificial sled with a stop on it to make all of the rabbits in the miters. I still have the sled and can take photos of it if you think it will help you out.

 

[pmac101]

Thanks guys.
Great advice.
Rick your idea is is a damn good one!
I think that's what we'll do.
I'll post some pics of the finished job.
Thanks again!