why do i keep snapping pocket hole drill bits ?

Not sure how you are snapping them.

I have drilled 1000s with one bit sometimes 800 in a row.

Never snapped one.  I use high speed drill and all done in one pass.  I have a festool vac attached to my pocket hole jig.

I do however stick some grease on the bit when I'm doing 800 holes in a row.  I do on average 1 pocket hole every 2-3seconds continuously it produces a lot of heat around the pocket hole jig and drill bit with friction.  A lot of heat and  I know cus it bloody burnt my finger!

I think it's something you are doing wrong to cause them to snap

 
I'm using the UJK drill bits and have snapped the tip off twice so far. Both times when hitting a knot in solid pine wood.
Did not use any excessive downwards pressure on the drill bit & my corded drill was set to its highest speed.

Both times the tip broke off just as I entered the knot in the wood.
It's hard to tell afterwards but from the way the tip buried itself in the wood (and left a big dent in the pocket hole jig), I would say that the tip wasn't able to cut into the hard knot and instead skid along its surface, got bent out of the way and snapped.

Shame that the replacement drill bits are so expensive.
 
loadinglevelone said:
I'm using the UJK drill bits and have snapped the tip off twice so far. Both times when hitting a knot in solid pine wood.
Did not use any excessive downwards pressure on the drill bit & my corded drill was set to its highest speed.

Both times the tip broke off just as I entered the knot in the wood.
It's hard to tell afterwards but from the way the tip buried itself in the wood (and left a big dent in the pocket hole jig), I would say that the tip wasn't able to cut into the hard knot and instead skid along its surface, got bent out of the way and snapped.

Shame that the replacement drill bits are so expensive.
Click to expand...

Is that the expensive cobalt bit? They're a bit snappier than the non-cobalt ones. I used a cobalt pilot bit in my Bosch holesaw a couple of times and it snapped, the HSS one that also came with the set is still going strong over a year later.
 
Wuffles said:
Is that the expensive cobalt bit? They're a bit snappier than the non-cobalt ones. I used a cobalt pilot bit in my Bosch holesaw a couple of times and it snapped, the HSS one that also came with the set is still going strong over a year later.
Click to expand...

Yeah, those were the cobalt bits. I'm not sure if their HSS bits are discontinued or whatnot, but the one included with the pocket hole kit was cobalt aswell and the HSS bits are out of stock on their website.

Anyway, Ive ordered a kreg bit for comparrison as well as a couple of cheap ebay ones just to test.
 
Got the Kreg drill bits yesterday and drilled about 300 holes, and what a difference!
Compared to the UJK cobalt bits the kreg HSS drills both cleaner and faster.

Tested it out on the same type of knots in pine wood which snapped the UJK cobalt ones,
and where the UJK are hard to get through the kreg goes through like butter.

Furthermore the UJK cobalt bits leave metal stained residue in the pocket holes (basically making the holes look dirty).
The kreg holes comes out nice and clean. (Both drilled using the same UJK jig).

The kreg drill bit also leaves the hole edges cleaner, with fewer chips.

As for longevity and strength of the drill bit tip on the kreg vs ujk - only time will tell. But based on how much easier the kreg bits drills the wood im positive that the kreg bits will outperform the ujk.

Next up... testing the cheap ebay drill bits.
 
loadinglevelone said:
Got the Kreg drill bits yesterday and drilled about 300 holes, and what a difference!
Compared to the UJK cobalt bits the kreg HSS drills both cleaner and faster.

Tested it out on the same type of knots in pine wood which snapped the UJK cobalt ones,
and where the UJK are hard to get through the kreg goes through like butter.

Furthermore the UJK cobalt bits leave metal stained residue in the pocket holes (basically making the holes look dirty).
The kreg holes comes out nice and clean. (Both drilled using the same UJK jig).

The kreg drill bit also leaves the hole edges cleaner, with fewer chips.

As for longevity and strength of the drill bit tip on the kreg vs ujk - only time will tell. But based on how much easier the kreg bits drills the wood im positive that the kreg bits will outperform the ujk.

Next up... testing the cheap ebay drill bits.
Click to expand...

I've found that getting the screws into the holes without any weird misdirection when you screw them in is easier with the kreg jig than the ujk, not sure if it's the jig or the drill bit that makes the difference.
 
It's funny but I had the same problem - second hole with an Axminster cobalt drill and the end snapped off. Axminster did replace it but I am now very carefull when using it. My original thoughts were a bad batch but as other manufactures are mentioned that can not be the case.
Just for the record I was drilling into mdf mr material at the time and would be interesting to see if there is a common material associated with failure, oh yes I also have the UJK jig connected to my CT26 so swarf /dust / material was being extracted as well.
Any more thoughts from anyone?
Regards
Ted
 
Woodentop2 said:
Just for the record I was drilling into mdf mr material at the time and would be interesting to see if there is a common material associated with failure, oh yes I also have the UJK jig connected to my CT26 so swarf /dust / material was being extracted as well.
Click to expand...

Havent tested mdf. Both of the time the tip snapped were in solid pine wood.
I'm also using the dust extractior for my UJK jig and that works flawlessly. No buildup of chips whatsoever.
 
I have an all metal jig I bought from Penn State Industries.  I don't think they still offer it.  I used the original bit for maybe 10 years of infrequent use.  Then I dropped it on the floor (concrete) and broke it.  I got two Kreg's from Amazon for a decent price.  They work about the same as my original bit.  I don't have a dust collector port on the jig. 
 
I don't remember when i got my Kreg jig.  It was the regional model, i think.  I have since upgraded to the next generation.  When i got the first one, i was thinking the same way i have worked my biz as far as equipment goes.  If I need one, I really need two.  I bought two bits.  I am still using the first bit.  I use my cordless drills to drill the pocket holes.  when i was using the first jig, i was sing drills with older technology where the drill started slowing down long before the battery died.  My new CMS drill seems to run full speed until it just dies, cold turkey.  I do not have my CT or ant other vac system hooked up to my drill or jig when doing pocket holes. 

I am still using the original Kreg drill that I got with my first jig.  I have been using it for so long, I can't even find the back up drill I got with the original purchase.  I guess you could say POSSITIVE for the Kreg drill bit.  NEGATIVE for my shop organization. ::)
Tinker
 
I have a Kreg jig kit with drill bit that I have been using for 10 years or so and the original bit still works perfectly.  Before each use I spray the bit with Bostik Blade-Cote to provide for both better chip flow and lubrication between the bit and jig.  When drilling recesses I use a vacuum attachment to help with chip clearance and back off a couple times per recess to move chips back.  If you just power in without lubrication or chip flow assistance the nature of the tool will generate lots of heat which will cause bit life to suffer.
 
I've been using the Kreg bits for years. Worn out quite a few of them but never broke one. At least not that I can recall.  90+ % in the bench unit , almost never portable jig. Vacuum all the time except in the portable. 

Seth
 
sucker 4 tools said:
think i have established now that operator error may be the problem
Click to expand...

Or maybe a bad drill chuck or a bad jig.  I never broke one either.  But the Kreg bit has been replaced a couple of times as it got dull.  I don't think you can have them sharpened--at least not easily and not for the cost of a new one. 

Whiteside, the makers of quality router bits, also makes a carbide tipped pocket hole bit.  The carbide would not do anything at all to prevent breakage, but I'm fairly certain it will be a quality bit, and at $34.00 + shipping, it had better be.
https://carbideprocessors.com/standard-pocket-hole-drill-3-8-dia-3-8-shank-whiteside-ff301/
 
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