Why do we put back panels in base cabinets anyway?

[roblg3]

The definition of a cabinet is a box.  a box has 6 sides.  granted lower cabinets usually are open on the top (temporarily) until the counter is placed.  I would assert that if the cabinet is firmly attached to the wall WITHOUT gaps, one could say a backless BOX is a cabinet once installed.  It's really a best practice issue.  I have always scoffed at the guys who tell me we do it this way because that's how it's done....if you can't give me a reason WHY we do this, I'll find out for myself...and often I find a BETTER way to do it than "Just Because".  IF the OP can build and sell his backless cabinets and they are sturdy once installed it IS PROPER for HIS style of cabinetry.  I would pay less for it though.  There are books that describe ways of building.  Many offer different techniques.  There might occassionaly be only 1 way to "skin the cat" but usually there are at least several.  I'm usually doing work that other guys won't do and that means I'm doing things in ways people laugh at...but when it comes out sturdy and attractive I am happy and they are impressed...or not.  I don't care as long as I KNOW i've followed basic building practices and the customer is happy their opinion isn't important.  I started out out as "shut up and hold this because you don't even know enough to ask the right questions"  within a few years those same guys were answering to me.  Telling me I've done it this way a thousand times....and I iwould have to tell themm I want it THIS way.  just because you've done it 1000 times doesn't mean it's the only or even the BEST way of doing it.  Creativity is how progress is made.  I mean does any one of us want to HAVE to build using knives and hatchets?????

 

[rmwarren]

The definition of a cabinet is a box.  a box has 6 sides.  granted lower cabinets usually are open on the top (temporarily) until the counter is placed.  I would assert that if the cabinet is firmly attached to the wall WITHOUT gaps, one could say a backless BOX is a cabinet once installed.  It's really a best practice issue.  I have always scoffed at the guys who tell me we do it this way because that's how it's done....if you can't give me a reason WHY we do this, I'll find out for myself...and often I find a BETTER way to do it than "Just Because".  IF the OP can build and sell his backless cabinets and they are sturdy once installed it IS PROPER for HIS style of cabinetry.  I would pay less for it though.  There are books that describe ways of building.  Many offer different techniques.  There might occassionaly be only 1 way to "skin the cat" but usually there are at least several.  I'm usually doing work that other guys won't do and that means I'm doing things in ways people laugh at...but when it comes out sturdy and attractive I am happy and they are impressed...or not.  I don't care as long as I KNOW i've followed basic building practices and the customer is happy their opinion isn't important.  I started out out as "shut up and hold this because you don't even know enough to ask the right questions"  within a few years those same guys were answering to me.  Telling me I've done it this way a thousand times....and I iwould have to tell themm I want it THIS way.  just because you've done it 1000 times doesn't mean it's the only or even the BEST way of doing it.  Creativity is how progress is made.  I mean does any one of us want to HAVE to build using knives and hatchets?????

Hey, this thread has become fun...  [big grin] [poke]

Just to clarify, as the OP, I don't make/sell cabinets, I am a DIY homeowner. With that stated, I am the son of an old time carpenter who did everything from renting a backhoe to dig out our basement & laying the block (apparently code-approved filler for CMU included bi-metal Budweiser cans...) on thru framing and finish work. I followed in Dad's footsteps @ home, having done most everything from installing cabinets, electrical/plumbing/framing/drywall, etc., but I don't try to make a living at it. Jack-of-all-trades and master of none.

In any case, it's interesting to see the mini fire-storm created by a fairly simple question.  [dead horse] 

RMW

 

[sancho57]

In the older Ca homes that I've worked on, by older in Ca its 50s-70s. Most do not have backs on them. The old track 1950s track homes appear to have been made from kits and assembled on site. Basically nailed together.

With that being said for me it depends whether to put a back on. If it does require or I desire to put a back on, I screw it to the back of the cab I order to square it up and take a router with a flush cut bit to trim off the access. Sometimes I rabbit the back and fit the rear panel in the rabbit. Sometimes I router a groove in the bottom and sides and slide the panel in.

Basically it's all personal preference and what the customer wants and willing to pay for.

 

[roblg3]

Well gee...i guess I did sound kind of wound up??  LOL

 

[Linbro]

Down here (Australia) it's 'industry standard' to have backs on built in cabinets.

95% of our work is restaurant/café fitouts, and the architectural drawings we receive, from the Architect or Designer, always specify backs in cabinets, usually a minimum of 16mm thick.

 

[Scorpion]

Down here (Australia) it's 'industry standard' to have backs on built in cabinets..... usually a minimum of 16mm thick.

Dang, that's almost 5/8-inch.  Why so thick?

 

[chrisrosenb]

I have been building & installing cabinets for over 40 years. I know that fact means very little to today's woodworker, but it is a fact.

Backs that are solidly attached to the cabinet do add a lot to the strength to the structure of a cabinet. A cabinet that has a solidly attached back does not rack or twist like a cabinet without a back does. That makes installation much simpler because the installer does not have to be as concerned about twisting the cabinet when screwing it to the wall. This is a huge concern when the cabinets have inset doors with a 1/16" gap around the doors. It is not much of a concern with overlay doors.

Installing counter tops on backless cabinets can also cause problems if the top is bowed or warped. Bowed & warped is kind of a standard for particle board based laminate tops. I have never had an issue with bowed & warped tops on cabinets with backs. I have had lots of problems on cabinets without backs, because the cabinets do not have enough strength to pull the tops down.   

 

[Holmz]

Down here (Australia) it's 'industry standard' to have backs on built in cabinets..... usually a minimum of 16mm thick.

Dang, that's almost 5/8-inch.  Why so thick?

To keep the spiders and mice out.

 

[jacko9]

Down here (Australia) it's 'industry standard' to have backs on built in cabinets..... usually a minimum of 16mm thick.

Dang, that's almost 5/8-inch.  Why so thick?

To keep the spiders and mice out.

Spiders, rats and mice out and too add strength to the box structure.

 

[Linbro]

Down here (Australia) it's 'industry standard' to have backs on built in cabinets..... usually a minimum of 16mm thick.

Dang, that's almost 5/8-inch.  Why so thick?

To keep the spiders and mice out.

Spiders, rats and mice out and too add strength to the box structure.

Yeah, adds heaps of strength. Almost impossible to pull it out of square/put a twist in it. Much easier to fix off power/data points etc. as well.
I've used 12mm sometimes, and it's fine, it's just more convenient using the same thickness board for the whole carcass.