Why I HATE the "plug-it" cord!

[summerwind]

Bruce,
the original cord finally broke internally where the cord exits the connector..........nothing to do but to replace it right?

please don't get me wrong, i'm not taking your advice adversly, only explaining to you that i know how to use my equipment and keep it properly maintained.

the reason i posted was to describe my problem as i have been told by the rep and read all the previous posts in this topic about locking the cord. i assure you that all precautions have been taken to make sure that locking the cord has not been an issue.
what i am finding grief in here is the rep refusing (or being in denial) that there is a deeper issue and taking care of me in. i cut loose all my Fein sanding equipment in favor of the Festool system and the fact that you get a 3 year warranty........being told "oh, you didn't have the cord locked properly, so therefore no warranty" is BS, and i'm not going to just toss the unit and go buy another one.
the dealer that carries Festool's line wouldn't even send the tool in as they are assuming the same thing..............that too is BS

 

[Michael Kellough]

Could be that the sander has a loose wire, frayed wire, or poorly crimped connector
so it's pulling more current through the remaining conductor than designed.
The tool should go back for repair since replacement cords don't solve the problem.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Call us at 888-337-8600 on Monday after 8am EST.  I have no doubt that the issue can be quickly and accurately diagnosed and remedied.  I think anyone who has dealt with our company will attest to the superb quality of customer service that's provided.  We stand firmly behind our tools and our warranty.  Let's not speculate about the cause of the problem.  Just call us and we will make sure it gets resolved to your satisfaction.

I am disappointed about what you were told by you dealer.  Please send me a private message with the name of the dealer you have been working with.

 

[ForumMFG]

I really think festool could improve in this area slightly.  I think just by extending the outlet just a little would allow us to grab a hold of the plug and turn it easier.  Some of the tools are very hard to access the plug-it and then turn.  It's not a must needed improvement but I do find myself thinking that it would be nice if I had more room to turn it.  I've never had any problems attaching it before like stated above.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Once the plug-it cords break in they attach much easier. As for ease of accessing the plug-it, no question some tools are easier than others but I've found a little forethought and you'll figure out a better way. For example, the TS 55 it's hard to get your hand around the plug-it to twist it enough. Solution, bevel the saw and you'll have all the room you need to get your hand around the cord. For the sander attach the cord first then the vac hose. Without the hose on the sander it's much easier to attach the cord.

 

[tbellemare]

I agree, Brice. They get easier with use and there are ways to make them easier to grip.

Another thing that can help with the Plug-It cords and the latches on the Systainers and many other things that are tough to deal with is dry-lube. Just don't spray it on the electrical contacts.

Tom

 

[Michael Kellough]

It's the outside collar on a new cord that's difficult to rotate.
With use it gets easier to twist but some cords don't get changed
very often and it takes a long time for them to become easy to operate.
Is there a lube to reduce the friction in a tight collar?

 

[summerwind]

hi Shane,

i tried the RO again today with the new cord i bought for my jigsaw..........twisted on, and i even checked it every other minute while using the machine...........again it started burning the plug.
i'd like to call you this Friday.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

hi Shane,

i tried the RO again today with the new cord i bought for my jigsaw..........twisted on, and i even checked it every other minute while using the machine...........again it started burning the plug.
i'd like to call you this Friday.

I saw your discussion previously, but didn't respond at the time because other posters had already sent you in the right direction. By the way just as a forewarning, Shane is not part of the service department, so he could only forward you on to service if you called him direct.

You are burning up your cords because you have a poor connection between the tool's inlet and the plug-it connector on the cord. This results in a high resistance connection and possibly even small arcing at the connector, which in turn causes very high heat. Unfortunately, once this occurs even once, it creates a cascading degradation of the connections (that's true for any electrical plug, not just Plug-it).

The leading cause for this occurrence is not fully tightening the twist-lock on the Plug-it cords. This is the reason why I specifically point this out with a full graphic image in all of my Owner's Manuals. I know that this was mentioned previously, but it is an important enough topic that I want to make sure that everyone reading this thread fully understands it. Some Plug-it cord to tool interfaces are snug enough that when the owner turns the twist-lock, they think that they have fully tightened it, but instead, it is just beginning to hit the detent snap position. The most reliable way to ensure the twist-lock is fully engaged is to note that the twist-lock must rotate a full 90-degrees (1/4-turn).

If I recall, you have already stated that you were positive that the twist-lock was fully engaged. So given the assumption the twist-lock is fully engaged yet you are experiencing overheating problems, then it is quite clear that the electrical pins in the inlet of your sander have been damaged from previous occurrences of high heat. What happens is that once the plastic gets hot and soft, the pins no longer fit their shell as tightly as they should, and frequently, this means they will get pushed back inside of the body of the inlet. In essence, the pins are too short (from getting pushed back) to make full contact with the brass sockets in the plug-it's body.

So the bottom line is that even though you were noticing the damage on your plug-it cord(s), and drawing the conclusion that the multiple plug-it cords were the problem, the actual root cause was the inlet on the tool. Regardless what the cause of the original overheating condition, you now appear to have a damaged inlet on the tool.

 

[summerwind]

well Rick, since i basically have done everything you pointed out in terms of proper connection of the original and first replacement cord, then i see this as a defect caused by the machine.

for the dealer and the rep to completely refuse to look into the fact that the machine is at fault is not acceptable.
they are saying that Festool will not honor the warranty.
telling me to hardwire a machine without even trying to properly diagnose the problem is also irresponsible.

i agree that the pins are now shot, but the cause was not a loose cord, and i will say this once again for you and those who are not paying attention, "the cord was properly attached, period!"

the dealer and rep have not acted in any other way than to show lack of knowledge of the tooling they say they stand behind.

if the Plut-it cord is so senstive to a bit of arcing, then it is quite reasonable to say that this is a design flaw, and the bottom line is that Festool is in denial of this.

 

[wnagle]

Summerwind,

You are really making this problem bigger and more aggravating for yourself by talking with your dealer/rep.  It's obvious that strategy is not working.  Dealer/reps are not repair centers.

When I had a problem with my Jig saw, I called customer service.  They sent me (by email i believe)  a mailing label to return the saw for repair.  I put it in a box and sent it.  3 or 4 days later it was on my doorstep returned and repaired for free under warranty.

For the life of me I don't understand why you don't call them and get it fixed.  Obviously your dealer/rep is a weak link if what you are saying is accurate.  If you would have called customer service when this problem first happened it would have been fixed long before you started this thread.

I don't mean to sound bitchy, just trying to help.  You came to this site for help.  Here's your help:  Call customer service.  I promise you it's not like any other customer service you've called in the past.  If you don't call them, there is nothing else anyone can do.

 

[summerwind]

hi Wayne,

yeah it has gotten into the broken record skiparoo ;D

i think i have been helped by everyone, but my answer to Rick was to clarify that i have operated the tool exactly as designed.
merely pointed it out, as i just wanted to let all know that i am sending the machine in........i'm really curious as to why it has worked so well for the past 2-3 years and then all of a sudden gave me grief.

but i do believe that if the plug-it cord will fail if not twisted all the way as everyone points out, why has this not happened on my other machines.........am i twisting the cord right on those, but not this one?

 

[ForumMFG]

Yeah dude, You need to call Festool themselves and don't talk to someone that represents them.  It's a completely different ball game.  I don't know if there is any cost to a dealer for sending in a tool to get it fixed.  If there is then I can see why they are doing this to you.  They are trying to save money or they realized they gave you the wrong answer and they are trying to cover their butt.  I've dealt with customer service 2 times and it was the best I've ever had.  They didn't ask to many questions.  They just wanted to know what the problem was and how can they make me happy.

Call them Bro, if you don't then it's your loss.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Well, there are thousands of people that have used table saws correctly for years and yet still managed to cut fingers off. It only takes one mistake for the possibility of damaging the cord and/or tool. And, as I've said several time, it's possible that something happened that you aren't responsible for.

I noticed you said you've used the tool for 2-3 years, the warranty is good for three years, after that it all comes out of your pocket.   

 

[Rutabagared]

Just wondering . . . Why can't Festool mold indicator marks on the tool bodies and on the plug it cords that line up when properly inserted?

Joe

 

[ForumMFG]

Thats a good idea.  Or change the way it's connected?  Instead of twisting it to snap it in place so it can't be removed, why not make it in a way that you can just insert the plug-it and have it snap onto/into something?  That way you don't have to turn anything, the plug is still secure and it would make putting it on and taking it off a lot easier? 

 

[greg mann]

.

but i do believe that if the plug-it cord will fail if not twisted all the way as everyone points out, why has this not happened on my other machines.........am i twisting the cord right on those, but not this one?

Perhaps you haven't experieced any other failures because few tools are run as long continuously as the Rotex might be. We run a saw for ten seconds and stop. Unless we have it in a table the same is pretty much true for a router. This would give a bad connection time to cool down. Is it still a problem long term? Sure. My guess is that the Rotex will be the tool that will show a problem most often.

I have not experienced any issues with the Plug-It system. Any time you have moving parts in an electrical system there is the possibility of deterioration such as Rick has described. For me, the system's advantages outweigh all the issues about different cord gauges, connector forms, etc. We tend to forget that Festool is first and foremost a European company, and are trying to find ways to make their tools useful in North America WITHOUT proliferating a preponderance of model numbers. For example, 110 volts with Imperial markings for the US, but 110 volts with metric for Canada. Just making 110 volt tools alone doubles the model numbers, and probably quadruples their engineering challenges. I am grateful they have gone to the trouble they have to bring their tools here at all.

I know this sounds a bit like a rant but I don't mean it that way, and it is not meant to impune the OP as some of the things I have stated have nothing to do with his problem. Customer Service, Customer Service, Customer Service. I think a lot of Festool criticism stems from getting hung up on a pet peeve and not stepping back to look at the big picture. The Plug-It may introduce a possibility for one sort of problem but it also provides many advantages in the day-to-day use of our tools. To overlook that is throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

 

[Brice Burrell]

Perhaps you haven't experieced any other failures because few tools are run as long continuously as the Rotex might be. We run a saw for ten seconds and stop. Unless we have it in a table the same is pretty much true for a router. This would give a bad connection time to cool down. Is it still a problem long term? Sure. My guess is that the Rotex will be the tool that will show a problem most often.

I have not experienced any issues with the Plug-It system. Any time you have moving parts in an electrical system there is the possibility of deterioration such as Rick has described. For me, the system's advantages outweigh all the issues about different cord gauges, connector forms, etc. We tend to forget that Festool is first and foremost a European company, and are trying to find ways to make their tools useful in North America WITHOUT proliferating a preponderance of model numbers. For example, 110 volts with Imperial markings for the US, but 110 volts with metric for Canada. Just making 110 volt tools alone doubles the model numbers, and probably quadruples their engineering challenges. I am grateful they have gone to the trouble they have to bring their tools here at all.

I know this sounds a bit like a rant but I don't mean it that way, and it is not meant to impune the OP as some of the things I have stated have nothing to do with his problem. Customer Service, Customer Service, Customer Service. I think a lot of Festool criticism stems from getting hung up on a pet peeve and not stepping back to look at the big picture. The Plug-It may introduce a possibility for one sort of problem but it also provides many advantages in the day-to-day use of our tools. To overlook that is throwing the baby out with the bathwater.

Greg, it's posts like this is why I think you're one of the forum's most respected members. You have a way of putting thing into perspective and much more eloquently than I ever could. Good form.

 

[imaginarynumber]

the word from our local rep here in Fresno, Ca is that it is a known issue when the cord is not twisted on all the way and is therefore a user error...........sounds more like a design problem that Festool is sweeping under the carpet.

When festool first released the plug it system I enthusiastically rushed out and retro fitted my tools with plug-it connections.

With hindsight i regret having done this.

The plug it system has had two pretty major faults ( that I am aware of)

The first generation of plugs used to come apart leaving the live and neutral wires exposed. (Respects to Christian here, he acted as a medium even though the plugit system had not been released in the USA at that time).

Later I too experienced the current generation of connections becoming extremely hot. In time some of the tools stopped working. Initially when I reported it I was condescendingly told that I was not tightening the connections sufficiently. I knew that this was rubbish. I found that taking the connections apart and inserting a wedge on top of the cable relief gland helped for a while. Months later my local supplier told me that Festool discovered that "a number" of faulty leads had been sold- these leads cause arching which leaves carbon deposits which then, in turn,  contaminate other tools and leads.

To be fair to Festool (minden) UK they have offered to repair the faulty tools, even though they are out of warranty- after I had explained that I had purchased the leads in good faith.

After the wedge option stopped working I found that packing out the pins with a couple of strands of flex stopped the arching, the downside being that the plugit connection becomes unpluggable (sort of defeating the point). I AM NOT RECOMMENDING THAT ANYONE ELSE DOES THIS but I decided that it is pretty safe given that the strands cannot go any where.

Given that there have ben faulty plugs in the UK it seems very plausible that the same could happen in other markets.

 

[jvsteenb]

Perhaps the Plug-it is more error-prone on your side of the pond - I'm not sure.
I like the Plug-it, and haven't experienced even a single issue with it.

But what puzzles me, is that in all replies to summerwinds original problem everybody seems to insist that it originates from user error ? Why is that ? Tools fail, even Festools. It happens.
I think in reality if summerwind is sure he got the cord fully locked, he's the only one to judge - he was there. It's obviously not like he's new to tools or anything.

If a connection gets bad for WHATEVER reason, it tends to get worse and worse. If left undealt with, it'll probably be able to fry a couple more cords before it gives up completely, or sets the shop on fire. So it's probably best to deal with it ASAP.

I just don't seem to be able to grasp why everyone seems so adamant about the assumption that it was user error that started this ?

Regards,

Job