I've been doing some reading up on some new splinter guards, before I purchase. I'm reading that folks have had problems with the new, clear splinter guard not sticking to the rail. Is this still a problem? My rails all have the old, black flexible splinter guard.
Will New Clear Splinter Guard Stick?
- Thread starter darita
- Start date
You should have no problems. Before applying the new strip clean the aluminum off with some alcohol wipes, or a cotton ball with rubbing alcohol. This will clean off any old glue residue and ensure a good bond of the new splinter guard.
Ken
Ken
ewils91
Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Messages
- 193
Hi there,
I have had problems with my clear splinter guards sticking. I had to remove mine and reattach them with Fastcap's double sided tape and then re cut them.
Mine came loose within hours of using them for the first time. I hope you have better luck than me.
Eddy
I have had problems with my clear splinter guards sticking. I had to remove mine and reattach them with Fastcap's double sided tape and then re cut them.
Mine came loose within hours of using them for the first time. I hope you have better luck than me.
Eddy
mouppe
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- Feb 7, 2010
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- 3,036
I've not had a problem with the new one, and I've attached it a couple of times successfully when I got a new blade, etc.
I scraped off all the old adhesive thoroughly, cleaned the rail with paint thinner, let it dry, and then lightly scuffed a 1/4" or so of the edge of the rail all down its length. I then placed the new tape in place and pressed it down hard with a wooden block, starting at one end and running down the rail.
I place the rail off the edge of the workbench with the ridge on the topside hanging off. This ensures the rail stays flat and doesn't get deformed when you press the tape down.
I scraped off all the old adhesive thoroughly, cleaned the rail with paint thinner, let it dry, and then lightly scuffed a 1/4" or so of the edge of the rail all down its length. I then placed the new tape in place and pressed it down hard with a wooden block, starting at one end and running down the rail.
I place the rail off the edge of the workbench with the ridge on the topside hanging off. This ensures the rail stays flat and doesn't get deformed when you press the tape down.
There's been some very good advise here. I think the key that a few of us have mentioned is prep. Make sure you get all the old residue off, have a clean dry surface, and you should have no problems at all.
Richard's advise for light scuffing is interesting and sounds good. The light scuffing will give the adhesive something to bite into.
Daniel
Richard's advise for light scuffing is interesting and sounds good. The light scuffing will give the adhesive something to bite into.
Daniel
i have 3 1400 rails with the new factory installed clear strip and one older 800 rail witht eh factory installed black strip
all i know is that the ends of the clear is loose and needs re sticking every so often.
the black is rock solid
some members posted a while back that the makita splinterguard strip is better. you can buy that in rolls like the festool.
i know when mine needs replacing i will try the makita
all i know is that the ends of the clear is loose and needs re sticking every so often.
the black is rock solid
some members posted a while back that the makita splinterguard strip is better. you can buy that in rolls like the festool.
i know when mine needs replacing i will try the makita
The splinter guard has nothing to do with the ability of the rail to stay in place. There are three types of foam / plastic strips on the guiderails:
1. The splinter guard - clear
2. The anti-friction strips - green
3. The two strips of anti slip foam - black - on bottom.
I will agree that making sure that you prep the rail is really important when you are replacing the clear splinter strip. Additionally I would add that everything should be at the same temperature (stored in the same place) before replacing.
I would not recommend that you try and find old stock of the old black splinter strip. I have had several rolls that lost their adhesive qualities while in the box.
Peter
1. The splinter guard - clear
2. The anti-friction strips - green
3. The two strips of anti slip foam - black - on bottom.
I will agree that making sure that you prep the rail is really important when you are replacing the clear splinter strip. Additionally I would add that everything should be at the same temperature (stored in the same place) before replacing.
I would not recommend that you try and find old stock of the old black splinter strip. I have had several rolls that lost their adhesive qualities while in the box.
Peter
I have no idea what you guys are doing to get your clear version to stay on? I've gone thought two replacement rolls of clear splinter guards. Factory and replacement strips have all peeled at the ends. The first one I replaced I used acetone only as prep and placed the edge of the rail under two sheets of 3/4 plywood for two days. The ends peeled within a couple of months. Someone mentioned acetone leaving a small amount of residue behind so on one rail I tried acetone then alcohol. The ends peeled within a couple of months. I also tried mineral spirits (ends peeled). My rails are stored inside in a climate controlled space with no direct sunlight ??? I finally gave up and switched to using Makita's splinter guards. They're black and more flexible like the original Festool version. The best part, they stay stuck to the rail.
Bob Marino, Festool etailer, says, "Initially that was a problem, but that was corrected. And if it were to happen, the simple fix is remove from rail, clean rail and apply some glue and reapply guard." So I guess there's not supposed to be a problem.
Here are some pictures comparing the two. In the first picture you can just see the edge of Festool strip behind the Makita version. The second picture shows the difference in width of adhesive.
Measurements:
Festool - .082" thick / .787" wide
Makita - .095" thick / .765" wide
Measurements:
Festool - .082" thick / .787" wide
Makita - .095" thick / .765" wide
festoolviking
Member
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- Jul 7, 2009
- Messages
- 361
Woodie
Would you mind posting the number on the back of the makita one. It starts NITTO 5.............
Festoolviking
Would you mind posting the number on the back of the makita one. It starts NITTO 5.............
Festoolviking
jmbfestool
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- Jan 9, 2009
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- 6,646
I love how people say make sure your rail is clean etc and you won't have a problem with the clear peeling off.
Well if that was just the case then some one has to tell festool to make sure they clean the rails better before sticking on the strip because every one of my rails which came with a clear strip from new started to peel away not long after
Also I replaced one of my rails with white strip which had a black strip on.
I cleaned my rail super well and even that after 4months started to peel at the ends.
Well if that was just the case then some one has to tell festool to make sure they clean the rails better before sticking on the strip because every one of my rails which came with a clear strip from new started to peel away not long after
Also I replaced one of my rails with white strip which had a black strip on.
I cleaned my rail super well and even that after 4months started to peel at the ends.
