woodworking chisels

I'm suspecting that the 'resin' is more like the thin type use in wood hardeners. This would very easily be taken up by most woods under vacuum.
These hardness are variously described by their manufacturers as resins/polymers/polyurethane/epoxy
 
Since we had some discussion on mallets here, specifically the Blue Spruce, I've been thinking about them a little since. How difficult is it to replicate the resin impregnation of a wood mallet?

I'm thinking about a rectangular mallet head made from white oak, and I remembered there's a vac chamber sitting in a pile in the garage - if I get a vacuum pump (like the Pittsburgh or even Icon from Harbor Freight), could I impregnate the white oak? I've never worked with epoxy before (I'm presuming it would be epoxy), so is it a matter of putting the mallet head in a smaller container, filling it with epoxy, putting it in the chamber, sucking the vacuum and waiting three days? Does the epoxy solidify around the mallet?
As AstroKeith mentioned, normal resin is too highly viscous to impregnate deep into oak, I use Cactus Juice which is closer to a mineral oil in viscosity, maybe even less.

I hook up the pump and leave it run till the bubbles completely stop, usually several days, opening the valve a little every so often to let it draw into the timber, then I turn the pump off and leave it under vacuum for at least a few more days, more usually a week or two. It's always very gratifying when you release the vacuum and you see the resin go down an inch or two. Then it's taken out, wrapped in aluminium foil and baked in an oven for an hour.

A lot of people think resin stabilising timber is a just matter of applying a quick vacuum, soak a day and then done, far from it, denser timbers like oak really need a much longer process to get any decent sort of penetration.
 
+1 on Cactus Juice. I was donating a ton of kitchen stuff to friends after remodeling the kitchen, but kept the toaster oven so it could be the Cactus-Juice oven.
 
This has been my chisel solution for years, the Stanley chisels which were the first set I purchased, are made in the US and have steel caps. They're used for all sorts of rough construction tasks and have been routinely hammered on with an Estwing claw hammer. If they needed to be sharpened in the field, a RA grinder with 120 grit came to the rescue.

The Pfeil are Swiss made and only used on the bench by hand or with a light tap of a mallet. They are only sharpened on proper bench stones with a proper guide.
My Stanley chisels (purchased about 30 years ago) were made in England. I don’t know if that makes any difference in quality, but mine take a really sharp edge and hold it for a decent amount of time. I use mine for mortising mostly.

I also use them for trimming the ends of iron on veneer edge banding, though I now have a 2-1/2” wide chisel that I use for trimming the flat edges. I find the chisel faster and easier to use than the dedicated edge trimmers.

I use a double sided hammer with a rubber head on one side and a yellow plastic head on the other. I’m pretty sure I got it from Harbor Freight. I don’t see how an expensive hammer/mallet is going to improve the quality of my mortises. I’m sure I paid less that $10.00.

Addendum: I just checked, and H-F shows a very similar hammer for $7.99. Though my recollection is that mine has a solid steel handle, and this image is showing a tubular handle.

 
Little late to the party on this discussion, but thought I'd add a word of caution about the Blue Spruce round mallet. Form and function are great, and the resin infused head has limited the marking and denting, but after five years of using it, the handle has started to loosen from the head. I got the mallet before their acquisition by Woodpeckers, so not sure if their QC has gotten better since then. I stopped buying their stuff a few years ago after I received from them a paring chisel with a loose tang/handle connection. That prompted me to try out a Lee Valley PMV-11 chisel, which led to me discovering what others have said about the quality of PMV-11, and how it holds up much better than the steel on the Blue Spruce chisels.
 
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Little late to the party on this discussion, but thought I'd add a word of caution about the Blue Spruce round mallet. Form and function are great, and the resin infused head has limited the marking and denting, but after five years of using it, the handle has started to loosen from the head. I got the mallet before their acquisition by Woodpeckers, so not sure if their QC has gotten better since then. I stopped buying their stuff a few years ago after I received from them a paring chisel with a loose tang/handle connection. That prompted me to try out a Lee Valley PMV-11 chisel, which led to me discovering what others have said about the quality of PMV-11, and how it holds up much better than the steel on the Blue Spruce chisels.
Have you contacted the Blue Spruce company to see if they have a fix for this? It is a pretty pricey mallet, I would think they would stand behind it. In either case it will tell you more about the company than the mallet.
 
Have you contacted the Blue Spruce company to see if they have a fix for this? It is a pretty pricey mallet, I would think they would stand behind it. In either case it will tell you more about the company than the mallet.
This would just be considered normal wear and tear wouldn't it? Especially being something that spends all its time thumping things?
 
This would just be considered normal wear and tear wouldn't it? Especially being something that spends all its time thumping things?
Certainly the hammer face would be considered normal wear and tear. A loose handle? I think handles should not come lose. Maybe my expectations are not realistic.
 
Have you contacted the Blue Spruce company to see if they have a fix for this? It is a pretty pricey mallet, I would think they would stand behind it. In either case it will tell you more about the company than the mallet.
I should correct the record so as not to unfairly characterize the company. When I had initially looked at Blue Spuce's return policies, I thought i had only a 30 day window to send something back (which is what I did with the defective paring chisel, which they swapped out for a new one). After dbl checking following my original post, I saw that they have a lifetime guarantee for tool materials and workmanship. So I called them up yesterday and they told me to send it in. It is apparently still up to their discretion whether to fix/replace the tool, so we'll see what they do. I only use it for chisel work, and never for any extracurricular pounding, something that's reflected in the current condition of the tool, so I can't imagine they would diagnose any user error or misuse. I will say that their now being under Woodpeckers umbrella gives me some additional confidence, insofar as Woodpeckers takes the lifetime guarantee deadly serious. They sent me a brand new 26" precision square a couple of years back after mine had gone slightly out of square.
 
I should correct the record so as not to unfairly characterize the company. When I had initially looked at Blue Spuce's return policies, I thought i had only a 30 day window to send something back (which is what I did with the defective paring chisel, which they swapped out for a new one). After dbl checking following my original post, I saw that they have a lifetime guarantee for tool materials and workmanship. So I called them up yesterday and they told me to send it in. It is apparently still up to their discretion whether to fix/replace the tool, so we'll see what they do. I only use it for chisel work, and never for any extracurricular pounding, something that's reflected in the current condition of the tool, so I can't imagine they would diagnose any user error or misuse. I will say that their now being under Woodpeckers umbrella gives me some additional confidence, insofar as Woodpeckers takes the lifetime guarantee deadly serious. They sent me a brand new 26" precision square a couple of years back after mine had gone slightly out of square.
I had a Coach messenger’s bag back in the early 1980s. At that time it was a fairly pricey bag. But it came with a “lifetime guarantee”.

I carried it everyday for about a year, but just to and from my car.

The zipper failed.

No problem. Guaranteed.

Sent it in.

Coach’s response: The bag had already lead a full life, and so the guarantee had expired.

I hope you do better. I hope Blue Spruce does better.
 
Edward, I was going to suggest earlier to just send it in for service specifically because of the Woodpeckers/Blue Spruce relationship. I'm sure they'll honor the warranty. :) Send it to the attention of George Snyder (Vice President) and I'm sure he'll take care of you.
 
Coach’s response: The bag had already lead a full life, and so the guarantee had expired.
So much for "lifetime."

I too used to use a bit of Coach. Had a bifold wallet for many years and it developed this beautiful patina. I went in one day to replace it with a new version. The manager asked me if I would be willing to let the store have it so they could display it and show customers the kind of patina that can develop on their leather. I asked what he was going to compensate me with. He seemed to expect that the privilege of having my beautifully patina'd wallet on display while paying full-tilt for my replacement was good enough.

I still have my patina'd wallet. Somewhere...
 
So much for "lifetime."

I too used to use a bit of Coach. Had a bifold wallet for many years and it developed this beautiful patina. I went in one day to replace it with a new version. The manager asked me if I would be willing to let the store have it so they could display it and show customers the kind of patina that can develop on their leather. I asked what he was going to compensate me with. He seemed to expect that the privilege of having my beautifully patina'd wallet on display while paying full-tilt for my replacement was good enough.

I still have my patina'd wallet. Somewhere...
I started weight lifting when I was 13. While I was still in high school, my dad bought me a lifetime membership to Jack LaLane’s health clubs.

It turned out that the “lifetime” they were referring to, was the company’s, not mine. They closed a couple of years later.
 
Apropos earlier discussion of resin infused handles, I just noticed a striking difference between the handle wear of the blue spruce vs. the Veritas chisels, the latter being made of torrefied maple. The blue spruce chisel on the right had been in use for 6 years, but other than some discoloration there is no evidence of any mallet wear, whereas the Veritas butt chisel on the left, which is less than a year old, has already built up a collection of mallet dents.
 

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Apropos earlier discussion of resin infused handles, I just noticed a striking difference between the handle wear of the blue spruce vs. the Veritas chisels, the latter being made of torrefied maple. The blue spruce chisel on the right had been in use for 6 years, but other than some discoloration there is no evidence of any mallet wear, whereas the Veritas butt chisel on the left, which is less than a year old, has already built up a collection of mallet dents.
While not disputing the evidence I'll just note that the nearly twice as wide Veritas chisel probably gets struck nearly twice as hard.
 
Fair enough! Here's your apples to apples on the 1" chisels.
When I think of high-end wood chisels, my mind always goes back to the classic Japanese versions. They don’t use conventional tangs to attach the handles, and they either have metal striking surfaces for the mallet, or have a reinforcing ring like these offered by Garrett Wade.

1767215673380.jpg
 
The butt ends of those Japanese chisels will last a long time but they’re hell on a wood mallet.

The Veritas chisels are holding up pretty well. The Blue Spruce chisels are resisting mallet blows amazingly well.

The chisels in the photo do not appear to have been set up. By this I refer to the reinforcing hoops being positioned further down the handle, and the exposed ends folded over the steel hoops. If you do this, it should not damage a wooden mallet. In any event, oire nomi (Japanese bench chisels) are designed to be struck with a gennou (steel hammer). This adds to their precision.

Here is my set of Kiyohisa ...



... and Koyamaichi ....



Examine the handle ends. You will see wood and not steel.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
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