10mm shank router bits
- Thread starter 3mbjts
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There are reducing bushings available for various shank diameters but I am not aware of any for 10mm available from traditional woodworking sources. I have 8mm reducer sleeves for using Festool bits in my router table but I acquired them from a metalworking source (Kennametal). You can get 10mm sleeves from them but they are not going to be cheap and they will most likely need to be ground shorter which is not a big deal. The upside is that they are very high quality, unlike the normal reducing sleeves we are used to seeing at the woodworker level.
Do you have a variety of 10mm shanked tools you would like to use? I don't recall many 10mm shanks offered in the woodworker world. If you are really serious I can probably get you a part number. They are available through J&L Supply and probably also MSC, who happens to own J&L.
Do you have a variety of 10mm shanked tools you would like to use? I don't recall many 10mm shanks offered in the woodworker world. If you are really serious I can probably get you a part number. They are available through J&L Supply and probably also MSC, who happens to own J&L.
Thanks Greg,
I was paging through a Whiteside Routerbit catalogue and noticed that they carry the 35mm hinge and 5mm boring bits, however they have 10mm shanks. I have several other Whiteside bits and like them a lot. I was just trying to look at some cost savings before I put an order in for the LR32 system.
Mike
I was paging through a Whiteside Routerbit catalogue and noticed that they carry the 35mm hinge and 5mm boring bits, however they have 10mm shanks. I have several other Whiteside bits and like them a lot. I was just trying to look at some cost savings before I put an order in for the LR32 system.
Mike
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Mike,
My .02, don't get into a collection of bits of a different shaft size unless you really have to. If you have the OF1010, the 8mm bits can serve you well. If you have a OF1400, use the 1.2" shank bits. The 5mm hole drilling is easy and doesn't task the router of any size. The 35mm is larger and does require greater torque. You can use the 8mm and be slow in your cutting or you can use the 1/2" and just plunge away. I have and have used shaft adapters but prefer not to if there is a collet of the same size. As I say, this is just an opinion.
My .02, don't get into a collection of bits of a different shaft size unless you really have to. If you have the OF1010, the 8mm bits can serve you well. If you have a OF1400, use the 1.2" shank bits. The 5mm hole drilling is easy and doesn't task the router of any size. The 35mm is larger and does require greater torque. You can use the 8mm and be slow in your cutting or you can use the 1/2" and just plunge away. I have and have used shaft adapters but prefer not to if there is a collet of the same size. As I say, this is just an opinion.
Daviddubya
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3mbjts said:
The OF1400 router comes with three collets, including an 8mm collet. If you need an 8mm collet, you can buy one as an accessory. Look here:
http://www.festoolusa.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=492005&ID=4
Jim McFarland
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Mike, you might want to check with Whiteside to ensure their 10mm shank bits are designed for router use. I have an Amana brand 35mm bit I use in a drill press so I checked their website to see if they offered an 1/2"--->10mm collet adapter. From what I found, Amana offers several bits with 10mm shanks but they indicate all are for use in boring machines -- not routers. May be ok to use the 10mm Whiteside bits in a router but I would sure confirm with them before purchasing.
FWIW, Amana does offer an 1/2" to 10mm adapter (RB-120).
FWIW, Amana does offer an 1/2" to 10mm adapter (RB-120).
Thanks All,
I will take all of your advice into consideration. I have the 1400 router, and was just starting to look at purchasing the LR 32 system and looking at other 35mm and 5mm router bit options (to save some money), that would work with the system. I have both bits for the drill press, but was trying to keep it all as a system to be used with the router.
Mike
I will take all of your advice into consideration. I have the 1400 router, and was just starting to look at purchasing the LR 32 system and looking at other 35mm and 5mm router bit options (to save some money), that would work with the system. I have both bits for the drill press, but was trying to keep it all as a system to be used with the router.
Mike
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I just checked their website. The two bits are included in the package. "...2 carbide-tipped dowel drills 5 mm (491064 and 491066)."
Dave Ronyak
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Recently I wanted to use my Festool LR 32 Hole Drilling Set (Item No. 583290) and Guide Rail (LR 32, Item No. 491621) to drill shelf adjustment holes in several tall bookcases. I wanted 1/4 inch holes. Festool does not offer a brad point router bit in 1/4" size. So I used a Whiteside 1/4" upcut spiral 2-flute bit. This worked OK, but did not cut as cleanly and required considerably more pressure even though the bit was new than when drilling 5mm holes with Festool's brad point router bit. I have not been able to find a 1/4 brad point bit in any of 1/4", 3/8", 8mm or 1/2" shank. Whiteside does make 10mm shank brad point bits in 1/4" bore size, and these are priced at less than $10. The shank of these 10mm bits is internally threaded, apparently for installation in a boring machine. I checked out the shank of a few of these Whitside 10mm bits with a Starret digital micrometer and they were very uniform and consistent. I note that the 8mm shank bits that Festool makes for the Domino machine are internally theaded but will also fit into an 8mm collet, and are designed to operate at high RPM.
Has anyone investigated the possible use of these Whiteside 10mm shank 1/4" boring bits in a router?
Has anyone investigated use of 10mm collet adapters for use in a Festool 1/2" router collet?
Dave R.
Has anyone investigated the possible use of these Whiteside 10mm shank 1/4" boring bits in a router?
Has anyone investigated use of 10mm collet adapters for use in a Festool 1/2" router collet?
Dave R.
nickao
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Dave I have no idea about most of what you are asking and I have not used the Festool set up you are using, but are these holes deep enough to require an up cut bit?
A down cut bit would surely give a much cleaner edge cut. Especially at a 1/4" an up cut bit can not be very beneficial.
Nick
A down cut bit would surely give a much cleaner edge cut. Especially at a 1/4" an up cut bit can not be very beneficial.
Nick
Dave Ronyak
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Nick,
The holes need to be about 1/2 inch deep to fit the shelf supports. I originally purchased a set of upcut spiral bits (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") for use in making dowel holes and mortises using a drill press (actually a Shopsmith) before acquiring my Festool router set up.
Dave R.
The holes need to be about 1/2 inch deep to fit the shelf supports. I originally purchased a set of upcut spiral bits (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2") for use in making dowel holes and mortises using a drill press (actually a Shopsmith) before acquiring my Festool router set up.
Dave R.
nickao
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A little deeper than I normally need go. Mostly I inlay at 3/8"once in a while to 5/8" and the Whiteside down cut are some awesome bits. Actually all their bots are good.
I've had no trouble up to 5/8" deep with the 1/4" bits and I go as deep as 5/16" with their 1/8" bits ,which is deep for such a little bit. Most bit snap if I try that in a pass.
I am afraid to use anything in a router other than a router bit, but if you get the other to work safely post it and let us know.
I've had no trouble up to 5/8" deep with the 1/4" bits and I go as deep as 5/16" with their 1/8" bits ,which is deep for such a little bit. Most bit snap if I try that in a pass.
I am afraid to use anything in a router other than a router bit, but if you get the other to work safely post it and let us know.
Mike_Chrest
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3mbjts,
I think Jim is right the 35mm bits are for boring machines not routers. A boring machine is much lower rpm than a router.
http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs look under "Boring Bits"
The page shows righthand and lefthand cutting. They probably have a hollow threaded section in the end of the shaft and a flat on the shank so you can screw them on to the threaded male spindle of the boring machine. Hollow shank and flats on the side, not a good combo in a high speed router. Catalogue says for drill press or boring machine only.
Mike
It is weird that they have them listed with router bits ???
I think Jim is right the 35mm bits are for boring machines not routers. A boring machine is much lower rpm than a router.
http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog.html#catimgs look under "Boring Bits"
The page shows righthand and lefthand cutting. They probably have a hollow threaded section in the end of the shaft and a flat on the shank so you can screw them on to the threaded male spindle of the boring machine. Hollow shank and flats on the side, not a good combo in a high speed router. Catalogue says for drill press or boring machine only.
Mike
It is weird that they have them listed with router bits ???
Dave Ronyak
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Mike Chrest said:
You are correct in describing the shank configuration of a Whiteside 10mm shank 1/4" diameter boring bit. It has a hollow threaded section and two flats on the shank adjacent the hollow end. I found these among the router bits, and they are much less expensive than other bits from Whiteside.
Dave R.
It's interesting that I ran across this thread today. I was just talking to my tooling guy yesterday about 8mm shank brad point bits to replace the bits that come with the LR 32 system. My guy said he could get me top quality replacement bits for about $21. He also had some cheaper replacements available. In fact, I just ordered the $21 replacement to try out. Not a big savings but he delivers to my door and that includes sales tax. He's also been able to set me up with replacement blades for my TS55 and my friends TS75. If anyone is interested in getting his contact info, just let me know.
As I've said before, FESTOOL has some things that are top-of-the-line but I don't drink the Koolaid on everything they sell.
As I've said before, FESTOOL has some things that are top-of-the-line but I don't drink the Koolaid on everything they sell.
