About to click the OF1010 "Buy" button on Bob's site but.....

[bill-e]

The price of 8mm bits is just scaring me off.

I really want the OF1010 but I'm not a big fan of 1/4" bits.  I've used the 8mm Leigh dovetail bits and I really like them, they feel and work as well as 1/2" shanked bits IMIO.

Is there any other source for 8mm bits?  I've Googled but have not come up with anything.  I'm not looking for a set, but a couple of roundovers, chamfer, edge trim bits is all I need at the moment but I'm having a difficult time convincing myself  to spend 50 bucks minimum every time I need a bit.

 

[maxtool]

I went through the same thing. I already have an excellent collection of 1/2" bits. So I ended up with the QF1400 (which has collets for each size including 1/2") and love it.

 

[bill-e]

I have the OF1400 (and 5 other routers ) but I'm looking for something smaller and more comfortable.  I'm not one to spend a lot of money on common bits no matter what size they are...I don't own any $50 edge trim bits.

This is definitely a luxury item for me as I don't really need it but I do want it

 

[nickao]

Well you can use the collet to change the 8 mm to 1/4", I know you are not a fan but its a cheap way to go. I have had no issue with it.

I have some sources for 8 mm, what bits are you looking for exactly? Oops you probably have the 1/4" collet.

Nickao

Here is the simple one I have others:

8MM shank dovetail and straight bits

Another easy find:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17399

Are you willing to pay shipping overseas if the price is right?

 

[PeterK]

I asked a similar question about 3 weeks ago asking about 8mm bit sets but none available in the US other than for the Leigh jigs. Also virtually no 8mm bits in the US from the normal suppliers other than Festool. I have the 1400 and several other routers and wanted to take advantage of the 8mm shanks but just not possible without a huge investment in bits. So - I have purchased several 1/4" shank bits from Freud and Bosch to use. I really like the size and weight of the 1010, just a shame it won't take 1/2" bits or that 8mm bits can't be found here. Like you I just could not justify spending $50 and up for the Festool bits to start. If I find specific needs, I will purchase a few but not yet.
Pete

 

[nickao]

Guys get the 8mm bits here it is probably the best deal you can find for now:

http://www.apworkshop.com.au/

I have ordered here it is less than it looks.

First us dollars are only about .67 of the cost shown. Then you get to deduct another 9% because of a tax we need not pay, than deduct another 10% if the order is over 100.00.

They have like one or two 8 mm bits of each type. So you need to look around. Its a bit of a hassle but the bits are good and I believe still less than the Festool bits overall depending on what you order.

If nothing else you can compare the Festool bit price. Still even they do not have a great amount of 8 mm bits.

 

[Daviddubya]

Bill - It sounds like you are between a rock and a hard place.  For edge trimming bits, like roundover and chamfer bits that you mentioned, I think that quality 1/4" shank bits are just fine.  There is not a lot of stress on the bits doing edge work.

It is a bummer that Festool does not offer interchangeable collets on their various routers.  Oh well.

 

[JeromeM]

It is a bummer that Festool does not offer interchangeable collets on their various routers.  Oh well.

But they do. Are 6 enough

Collet SZ-D 6.35/OF 1400/2000 - 492141
Collet SZ-D 8/OF 1400/2000 - 492005
Collet SZ-D 9.53/OF 1400/2000 - 492142
Collet SZ-D 10/OF 1400/2000 - 492139
Collet SZ-D 12/OF 1400/2000 - 492140
Collet SZ-D 12.7/OF 1400/2000 - 492143

http://www.fixy.co.uk/products/department158.cfm

 

[Brice Burrell]

Warning not completely on topic:

I think 1/4" shank bits are greatly underrated. Sure the 1/2" and 8 mm bits are technically "better" because of the extra mass, but are they really better for daily use? I say no, I'd bet you wouldn't be able to tell the difference in cut quality between a 1/4" shank bit from a larger shank (of course I mean in the context of the OF 1010's capabilities). The only time you'd see a difference is if the 1/4" shank bit is of low quality or if you're plowing off a lot of material (too much) per pass. Any cutting you'd actually need a 1/2" shank bit for it's going to be too big of a job for the 1010. For you're basic, everyday routing jobs 1/4" shanks bits are fine and the 1010 is perfect for this type of routing. So next time someone says 1/2" shank bits are better because they have mass and this mass reduces chatter and dissipates heat more efficiently ask them how often this comes into play.

 

[Overtime]

Just used the 1010 on some solid Teak 10 minutes ago.

Used a 1/4" shank 3/8" roundover  - Tool Shop cheapo brand and it was perfect. Full cut depth pass. The OF1010 rocks,  period.
I have yet to have problems with any 1/4" shank bits using the 1010.
 
 I would like to see a line of decently priced 8mm bits of the same category (roundovers, flush trim bearing) thats what I thought, now after using the 1010 for 2 years it's been great with the 8mm bits for the LR 32 and the VS600 and just fine with any 1/4" bit as well. Festool bits are quality all the way but a little spendy.

Don't let that stop you from getting the 1010, it may quickly become your favorite go - to router.
I think I use it two times as much as the 1400.

 

[Brice Burrell]

 
 I would like to see a line of decently priced 8mm bits of the same category (roundovers, flush trim bearing) thats what I thought, now after using the 1010 for 2 years it's been great with the 8mm bits for the LR 32 and the VS600 and just fine with any 1/4" bit as well. Festool bits are quality all the way but a little spendy.

Don't let that stop you from getting the 1010, it may quickly become your favorite go - to router.
I think I use it two times as much as the 1400.

Same here, except for the VS600 part.

 

[Notorious T.O.D.]

I think I agree with Brice on this one as in 25 years I have never broken a 1/4" shank router bit; not even a cheapo one from Sears...

Maybe I just need to be like Avis and "try harder"...

Best,
Todd

 

[nickao]

Yeah me too.

I never use to buy 1/4", but now I have over 100 of them and NEVER have had a broken one. And I do not get chatter or anything else.

I really think this old rule is from when routers first came out and some 1/4" bits way back when were substandard. I just see no difference in the final results. I have Whiteside 1/4" bits that are better than no name 1/2" bits.

On the router forum that would be blasphemy, but I have never seen proof in my shop that the 1/4" bits do not "cut" it.   

 

[Warrior]

Bill,

Get the 1010 and if you dont want to spend the jing on the festool bits, then dont. I run the 1010 all the time and have never had a problem with 1/4" shank bits. I have to agree with Brice. The 1010 is a sweet lil humr.  ;D

Eiji

 

[Overtime]

Broke a 1/4" shank x 1/4"width  x 1" long straight flute cutter while using a router table.
High speed - hardwood too deep a cut on dado. Good thing the board and dado slot was covering the mess.

Operator error, Taking too deep a cut ( about 1/4" ) on a single pass while pushing the stock a little to fast.  Was Bubinga or hard maple ??

 

[nickao]

Well I never tried to break one on purpose!  What brand?

Yes to fast, too hard of a wood and too much cut, all of the above!

Although I have a Whiteside like that and routinely take 1/4 chunks out.

 

[Overtime]

It was Porter Cable  - has the dark red color on insides of cutters. Still have and use ( it's brother ) an identical bit of same. No problems.
  Yea I was plowing away taking about a 1/16 th to an 1/8 th per pass and all was good till I got greedy.

Who has both the 1010 and the 700 ? . How do you compare the two as far as usefulness per dollar spent or value for engeneering and performance within the Festool lineup ?

 

[nickao]

Well I have had good luck with the porter cable so probably a combination of depth, speed and the wood. The hard woods I use make a huge difference.

Sorry, no MFk 700 for me, it did not seem to plunge deep enough. Heck, even my 3 hp DeWalt 625 does not plunge deep enough  for many things though, so maybe its me.

 

[tbellemare]

Interestingly, there's a parallel thread about the OF 2200 and how much current it will draw. You would have to be a REALLY big dude to stop it or make it come close to its 2200-watt (~19-Amp) rating.

Anyone can cut with a sharp bit cleanly with a well balanced router that is controllable for the cutting situation. The key is whether the router is smooth with the chosen bit and controllable for the desired cutting task. Just like anyone can cut cleanly with a small shank, sharp router bit, anyone can also break a small shank, sharp router bit.

The latter, controllable for the desired cutting task, can depend on the router design, the configuration(s) that are possible, the workpiece, and the operator. The two areas where the router manufacturer obviously makes a difference, the router design and the configuration(s) that are possible, are where I would defend Festool Routers any time.

The former, a well balanced router, is an area where Festool Routers ALWAYS excel and others can only occasionally.

When the other superior aspects of the Festool Routers are included in the equation, like dust control, plunge smoothness and squareness, MMC electronics, balance, ergonomics, and safety, it is easy to see why Festool Routers are appealing.

Tom

 

[nickao]

Oh they are appealing and if the OF 2200 draws 19 amps good luck using it in many homes.

But that does show the thing has more power than a PC or Milwaukee unit.

That number is suspect and is probably a start up spike, which many routers show when the units are first turned on.

I wish I had one so I could make some direct measurements.

Does any of the info actually say 19 amps or just say 2200 watts, it makes a HUGE difference. Watts is an arrived unit, not an actual directly taken measurement, like current draw. Without the direct measurement I do not believe any of the manufactures, HP- Horse Power is the same, it is a bunch of crap.