About to click the OF1010 "Buy" button on Bob's site but.....

In regards to the 1010 not accepting 1/2'' bits I am in favor of it not. In many years of seeing the of1000 and the 1010 in use, the vast majority of problems are when the operator has put in too much bit and dogged the tool down by taking too much cut.

By allowing 1/2'' bits the door is wide open for any bit to fit and hurt the tool from to big a bit and cut in one pass. The opening in the base is tempting to put big diameter bits in. This leads to failure and ultimately user discontent and blame on the tool as inferior though truly not the case.

I myself have killed way to many routers this way. Its a expensive lesson learned in haste very quickly.

By limiting bit shank size it helps to keep bits out of the tool that do not belong there in the first place. IMO, I think festool has considered this in the design of the tool with the power available and best use in the long run.

I have broken far to many 1/4'' bits than I care to mention. I do use bits hard and what I cut is very abrasive and generates heat quickly, destroying carbide ( a amazing formulation for cutting tools) and will opt for 8mm or 1/2'' at first choice.

Use the proper bit at the proper speed in the proper tool for the optimum performance for the best results for the tool and the bit. Use the slowest speed needed for the best result and with dust extraction (helps keep bit cool as well) You will notice longer tool and bit life. Don't forget to keep your bearings lubed on the bits. This is often overlooked and causes tremendous failure rates on bits. These sealed for life bearings on the bit mean the bearings life and if you over heat them, life span drops drastically.

 
Bill I am the WORST. I beat the crap out of my tools. I use them I do not baby them.

If Festool felt that a 1/2" bit would ruin the unit you are totally correct in what you are saying. Because I am putting in a 1/2" bit and than plowing out Brazilian cherry and not backing off.

That being said I have never broken any of my routers and I push them to the limit.

I have personally cut up my Hitachi and run 3.5" bits in it for 8 years and the unit never skipped a beat, so I am not so sure that would be an issue unless the manufacturer was building to minimum specifications. But it was not an expensive Festool router either. Which makes a difference in whether I would modify it. It was a no brainer to enlarge the hole on a router I got new for 135.00. I do not think I am cutting up any of my Festools, they seem fine the way they are.

 
Hi Bill

I don't think you really need an 8mm shank for edging bits. You should be okay with 1/4"

The OF1010 is a great little router. I like it for the small light compact size and it is very much like an edge trimmer with plunge action.

Bill's comments regarding Festool not selling a 1/2" collett for this router is a good thing as it really is not designed for heavy work

Dan Clermont

 
Dan Clermont said:
Hi Bill

I don't think you really need an 8mm shank for edging bits. You should be okay with 1/4"

The OF1010 is a great little router. I like it for the small light compact size and it is very much like an edge trimmer with plunge action.

Bill's comments regarding Festool not selling a 1/2" collett for this router is a good thing as it really is not designed for heavy work

Dan Clermont

That's exactly correct - the 1010 was designed for smaller bits, not the 1/2" bits. Have to agree, great small router, just sooooooooo well balanced; it's my first choice most times too.

Bob
 
Overtime said:
It was Porter Cable  - has the dark red color on insides of cutters. Still have and use ( it's brother ) an identical bit of same. No problems.
  Yea I was plowing away taking about a 1/16 th to an 1/8 th per pass and all was good till I got greedy.

Who has both the 1010 and the 700 ? . How do you compare the two as far as usefulness per dollar spent or value for engeneering and performance within the Festool lineup ?

I had the 700 and returned it in exchange for the 1010 plus edge guide, edging plate, and put the change towards a sortainer.

The 1010 and edging plate does everthing the 700 does and more. IMO in usefulness/$ goes 2 to 1 for the 1010.

Eiji
 
JeromeM said:
Daviddubya said:
It is a bummer that Festool does not offer interchangeable collets on their various routers.  Oh well.

But they do. Are 6 enough...

Jerome - You are correct, of course.  However, the OF2000 is not shown on the Festool USA web site now.  I was wishing for a 1/2" collet option for the smaller routers.
 
I actually wasn't advocating the addition of a 1/2 collet to the 1010....just wish there were more sources for 8mm bits.

As far as bit size though and over taxing the 1010, it isn't the shank that is the issue it is the bit diameter and you can limit that with the throat opening, not shank.  There are plenty of small diameter 1/2" shank bits, I know cuz I own many of them, that would work just fine in a 1010 if there was a 1/2" chuck.  Thinking about it now, I would rather see a 1/2" chuck and a smaller throat diameter if Festool was trying to limit the size.

The 1/2" chuck would provide for an economy in bits because you could use them in both the 1010 and 1400.  Since my 1400 didn't come with a 1/4" chuck I would probably use a reducer in the 1400.

Having used 8mm bits with my Leigh jig I really like the way they work, either real or perceived, they feel better than 1/4" bits and just like 1/2" ones.  I do wish there were more options there as that could be almost a one size solution.

So OK, you've convinced me.  Examining at what I will be using the 1010 for (and now I would actually have a router that fit without a kludge into the LR32sys :)) I think I'll order it.  The US version is packaged with the guide stop and edge guide so I can both use it on the guide rail and with the edge guide.  What is the micro adjuster accessory?  Doesn't the 1010 guide stop work the same as the 1400? 
 
Notorious T.O.D. said:
I think I agree with Brice on this one as in 25 years I have never broken a 1/4" shank router bit; not even a cheapo one from Sears...

Maybe I just need to be like Avis and "try harder"...

Best,
Todd

I have worn out and broken several 1/4 inch shank carbide tipped straight bits, but not when routing wood.  I was using them to cut ~14 inch to ~16 inch circles from 1/2 inch thick PVC plate for use as end plates of vacuum tanks I was building.  An individual bit would only last 1 1/2 to 2 lids because the fillers in the PVC rapidly dulled the bits.  Back then the cutting edges of the bits were straight, they didn't have the shear angles many modern bits do.  I was using a single speed 11A Stanley industrial router which still runs fine.

I would love to have an updated 1010 router with 1/2 inch shank capability.

Dave R.
 
Daviddubya said:
JeromeM said:
Daviddubya said:
It is a bummer that Festool does not offer interchangeable collets on their various routers.  Oh well.

But they do. Are 6 enough...

Jerome - You are correct, of course.  However, the OF2000 is not shown on the Festool USA web site now.  I was wishing for a 1/2" collet option for the smaller routers.
Neither is the OF2000 on th UK one. Where you see 2000 substitute 2200 as the place the collet fits is the same.

and there are 2 smaller collets for the 1010 a 1/4" and 8mm
 
Overtime said:
...........Who has both the 1010 and the 700 ? . How do you compare the two as far as usefulness per dollar spent or value for engeneering and performance within the Festool lineup ?

I have both the 1010 and 700, I find the 1010 to be a more versatile tool overall so that makes it a better value for me. While I don't mind doing basic routing jobs, like round overs, with the 700 I do prefer the 1010. The 1010 has much better visibility but I like the wide base of the 700. For light duty routing reach for the routers in this order, the 1010 first then the 700 and the 1400 last.

For edge routing I've come to prefer the 700 over my 1010 with the edge routing setup. However, the 700 is limited depth of cut in the horizontally, about 5/8" so I still use the 1010/edge setup.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Bill-e, just a heads up, the edge guide is no longer included, it's sold as an accessory.
Brice, I'll be kinda ticked if it doesn't.  When did this change happen?

"Includes: 1/4" (6.35 mm) and .31" (8 mm) collets, guide stop, edge guide, guide bushing adapert, chip catcher in Systainer 3. "
 
nickao said:
Oh they are appealing and if the OF 2200 draws 19 amps good luck using it in many homes.

But that does show the thing has more power than a PC or Milwaukee unit.

That number is suspect and is probably a start up spike, which many routers show when the units are first turned on.

I wish I had one so I could make some direct measurements.

Does any of the info actually say 19 amps or just say 2200 watts, it makes a HUGE difference. Watts is an arrived unit, not an actual directly taken measurement, like current draw. Without the direct measurement I do not believe any of the manufactures, HP- Horse Power is the same, it is a bunch of crap.

Nick, I talked at length with the Festool staff about the current the 2200 draws both at startup and while running at max power. Turns out the 2200's electronics play a big role in allowing it to run at or below 15 amps for all but the most demanding jobs. In fact the 2200 can be used plugged into a vac for most routing normal jobs.

The soft start prevents a big draw at startup together with the MMC controlled electronics is what allows this. When routing with larger bits the speed of the router is turned down this reduces some current draw, it's not until the router is pushed hard that is draws more than 15 amps, really hard. For tough routing jobs you'd plug the 2200 into a separate circuit from the vac.  
 
bill-e said:
Brice Burrell said:
Bill-e, just a heads up, the edge guide is no longer included, it's sold as an accessory.
Brice, I'll be kinda ticked if it doesn't.  When did this change happen?

"Includes: 1/4" (6.35 mm) and .31" (8 mm) collets, guide stop, edge guide, guide bushing adapert, chip catcher in Systainer 3. "

Bill, this happeded over a year ago, check out the Festool USA site, OF 1010.
 
bill-e said:
Brice Burrell said:
Bill-e, just a heads up, the edge guide is no longer included, it's sold as an accessory.
Brice, I'll be kinda ticked if it doesn't.  When did this change happen?

"Includes: 1/4" (6.35 mm) and .31" (8 mm) collets, guide stop, edge guide, guide bushing adapert, chip catcher in Systainer 3. "

Bill
Don't be ticked about the edge guide not included, as far as I can remember back ten years or more for the 1010 or 1000. I looked at some of my festool books from 96/97/98/99, and it was never included. The guide rail adapter IS included and has been.I would go ahead and click away and if you need the edge guide order it as well.  This item has been a confusion for many years.

The of 1400 and the 2000 routers came with the edge guide BUT not the guide rail adapte interestingly enough. The edge guide was dropped out of the 1400 several years ago to lower the price and help more people afford it. The 2200 followed suit and dropped the systainer as well and shipped in a box instead. This also help lowered the price and sell more. 
The 2000 is not listed in the current book as it is being discontinued but there are still many available. Still a option if people are looking for a alternitive to the of2200 beast.
I run three of the 2000's in addition to the 2200's and do like the power and stability. They purr very nice and I usually run them at 1/2 to 2/3 power settings even with big bits as the mmc ensure enough current is there for the demand. The bits run cooler at the slower speeds and stay sharper longer as well.
 
Bill:

The OF 1010 doesn't come with the edge guide or the micro-adjuster you mentioned earlier in this thread.

Thanks, Brice!

For those that aren't aware, MMC electronics (Multiple Material Control) offers the user several advantages:
  • Soft Start (good for control and controlling starting current spikes)
  • Variable Speed
  • Thermal Overload Protection
  • Constant Speed Under Load
  • Trigger Overload Protection (power spike protection)
  • Electronic Braking (NAINA)
This list is significant because combined, they protect you, the work piece, and the tools.

watts = amps x volts. Typically, you would expect an average of 115 volts, which is how I arrived at ~19 amps. The OF 2200 would normally be thought of as about a 3 HP class router.

Tom
 
Bill in seattle said:
Bill
Don't be ticked about the edge guide not included, as far as I can remember back ten years or more for the 1010 or 1000. I looked at some of my festool books from 96/97/98/99, and it was never included. The guide rail adapter IS included and has been.I would go ahead and click away and if you need the edge guide order it as well.  This item has been a confusion for many years..........

Bill, I remember this change taking place about a year ago, I bought my 1010 two and a half years ago and it came wth the edge guide.
 
Thanks for the info.  I ordered this morning when I typed "click" in a post :)  I was just taken by surprise tonight cuz Bob's site still has the edge guide included.
 
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