Any advice on how to make this cut?

[bwehman]

Hey all! At a client's and in a bind. I'm fitting a new oven and the past cabinet installer didn't do a great job with final fit. The face frame is wavy and needs to be trimmed back to the sharpie line. I have all the Festool system available. Any ideas? My first thought is clamp a rail, TS55 as much as I can, and block plane the rest but that seems clunky.

 

[Cheese]

I’d take as much with the TS 55 and rail as you can and then touch up any small areas with the RAS held at a back angle.

 

[semenza]

I don't think you will be able to trim much of that with the TSS55 unless the cabinet is loose. Even then clamping and rail support seems a little iffy. Might be the way to go if the cabinet can be set on it's back and then really make a solid rail set up. Make certain your splinter guard is dead on to the blade.

If the cabinet is in place and being such a short run, I would sand it to the line with a back bevel. Do you need to take the line or leave the line. If you need to take the line, then mark again to make the line double wide to keep your reference when sanding. What sanders do you have with you?

Seth

 

[ChuckS]

Palm router with a flush trim/pattern bearing bit and a straight edge clamped (or double-face taped) to the face frame. The rest with an oscillating multi tool against the straight edge.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

That is not so great of a situation for a guide rail and track saw. The worst of it is down at the bottom, exaclty where the saw i going to be the least effective. You are going to have real trouble getting it that close to the floor, not even considering how difficult it is to clamp it in place.
You might get by with clamping a straight piece of plywood in place and using a pattern bit and router.
It would reach the bottom, but not all the way to the top. One way or another it is going to require some sanding or chiseling because the countertop will obstruct a block plane.
The likelihood of an RAS is minimal, so maybe an RO? That's how I would proceed, with some back-bevel, as suggested above.

 

[Coen]

Jigsaw, router? I guess it has to be cut flush with the side panel?

Looks moldy btw.

 

[bwehman]

I don't think you will be able to trim much of that with the TSS55 unless the cabinet is loose. Even then clamping and rail support seems a little iffy. Might be the way to go if the cabinet can be set on it's back and then really make a solid rail set up. Make certain your splinter guard is dead on to the blade.

If the cabinet is in place and being such a short run, I would sand it to the line with a back bevel. Do you need to take the line or leave the line. If you need to take the line, then mark again to make the line double wide to keep your reference when sanding. What sanders do you have with you?

Seth

Agreed on the TS plan. I think what I might do is make a piece of wood and attach to the backside of the face frame. I'll make the strip as thick as I need to basically ride a flush cut bit against, and then use the 1010 or MFK to get the lion's share. From there I'll use the Vecturo and reference a blade against that same strip for the rest. Wish me luck!

 

[Imemiter]

I'm with ChuckM wrt using a router. If you don't have double-sided tape Supergluing the guide stick to blue painters tape works just as well. If I was in a hurry I might look to flush trim the face frame all the way back to the cabinet side. Super fast setup and it could give you a little more breathing room. Finish the couple of inches at the top with a sharp chisel.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Palm router with a flush trim/pattern bearing bit and a straight edge clamped (or double-face taped) to the face frame. The rest with an oscillating multi tool against the straight edge.

+1 for this being the easiest and simplest way to fix it.

 

[usernumber1]

i thought cabinet installers do these cuts all day long free hand on a table saw

 

[wking]

How about a sharp block plane; that's what I've done in the past

 

[bwehman]

Welp, this worked perfectly. The only part I couldn't get to was the last inch at the top near the counter, but was able to knock that out with a block plane. Thanks for processing this with me everyone!

(also yes, added the little chip deflector after taking the photo haha)

 

[derekcohen]

Hey all! At a client's and in a bind. I'm fitting a new oven and the past cabinet installer didn't do a great job with final fit. The face frame is wavy and needs to be trimmed back to the sharpie line. I have all the Festool system available. Any ideas? My first thought is clamp a rail, TS55 as much as I can, and block plane the rest but that seems clunky.

View attachment 376074

View attachment 376075

Block plane.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[SoonerFan]

@bwehman that worked great. Thanks for sharing the final solution. Glad it worked out for you!