Anyone experienced with Flashing?

[Tinker]

One responder mentioned using Copper flashing.

I have not flashed something like your problem, but i have done lots of chimney flashings.  One thing I have always been told by my mentors as well as the flashing contractors i have hired to flash my larger jobs is to never mix copper and aluminum where water can come in contact between the two metals.
Tinker

 

[tjbnwi]

One responder mentioned using Copper flashing.

I have not flashed something like your problem, but i have done lots of chimney flashings.  One thing I have always been told by my mentors as well as the flashing contractors i have hired to flash my larger jobs is to never mix copper and aluminum where water can come in contact between the two metals.
Tinker

Your'e correct, no copper against aluminum. You have to be careful with aluminum against treat lumber as it contains copper.

Tom

 

[skids]

This should make things a little easier with this project. ; )

 

[erock]

For taking the door out?  [tongue]  [tongue] [poke] [poke]

Eric

 

[Old School Carpenter]

For taking the door out?   [tongue]  [tongue] [poke] [poke]

Eric

x2    [poke] [poke] [smile]

 

[skids]

For taking the door out?  [tongue]  [tongue] [poke] [poke]

Eric

Yes if you can believe, thats one task for it..Cutting the siding out around the door, nice and square..Also, cutting the decking off at the ends, and....Wait for it, wait for it..Cutting the plywood out of the house thats rotted.

Isn't that enough reason to spend $500 on saw? Cmon!

I needed it for my MFT 3 anyway

 

[Deansocial]

One responder mentioned using Copper flashing.

I have not flashed something like your problem, but i have done lots of chimney flashings.  One thing I have always been told by my mentors as well as the flashing contractors i have hired to flash my larger jobs is to never mix copper and aluminum where water can come in contact between the two metals.
Tinker

Your'e correct, no copper against aluminum. You have to be careful with aluminum against treat lumber as it contains copper.

Tom

Why's that then?

 

[skids]

OK I have a question as I release these joist from the joist hangers in order to drop the ledger being that this is a cantilevered deck (24" cantilever).

I have shored up with doubled temporary 2x8 joists sitting on 4x6 posts sitting on concrete blocks, Toe nailed this together.

My question is, and this is probably being a little overly paranoid..Once I release all the joists is there any chance of the deck flipping upward due to the cantilever? SHould just throw a support under the end of the cantilever just in case? I feel like once I release the band joists of the existing deck thats where all the load is something could happen. GIven the staircase is hanging off the cantilever end, I suspect this will work against me but also act as a support to prevent that. I thinking I could put a post at the opposite corner where the stair case is and it will take care of this concern.  I am working from the inside joists outward right now removing the hangers one by one.

Any advice is appreciated. I will post a pic of the configuration.

 

[skids]

Here's a pic of the cantilever and stairs. I think I need supports down this end

 

[skids]

Let the surgery begin

 

[oldie]

Dean:
If you're asking about not putting copper next to aluminium - possibility of corrosion.
Google: 'copper aluminium batteries' &/or 'copper aluminium corrosion.'

If, why copper in the timber, don't know, kills bugs I suppose.

Richard.

(edit:  took word out & changed another word.)

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Aluminum below copper will corrode, older PT lumber had high copper content and would eat away at aluminum flashings.

The grace on top of individual joists was a waste of money and time.  10 year old house with no flashing?  Typical anymore, was it built in a big housing addition/tract by some big tract builder? 

Every 10 to 15 year old house around here are falling apart, they need everything. Built with cheap junk by cheap builders who paid so little the guys doing the work had to slap the crap together.

 

[skids]

Aluminum below copper will corrode, older PT lumber had high copper content and would eat away at aluminum flashings.

The grace on top of individual joists was a waste of money and time.  10 year old house with no flashing?  Typical anymore, was it built in a big housing addition/tract by some big tract builder?  

Every 10 to 15 year old house around here are falling apart, they need everything. Built with cheap junk by cheap builders who paid so little the guys doing the work had to slap the crap together.

This is New England they don't tract build up here but for the  most part yes these aren't custom homes. This house was built in 2003 when people would pay top dollar for a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I have done alot of corrective work. This job takes the cake.

It had flashing but it was back wards. Wall leg is behind that ledger. Complete idiots. I cut out the ledger to be sure the sheathing and rim joist were good. No such luck. Rim joist has a small area of mushy wood. I am none too happy bout that

 

[skids]

Here's a first look at the rim.. Can I live with this or should I cut it out? There is one other area similar to this rest is dry.

 

[tjbnwi]

One responder mentioned using Copper flashing.

I have not flashed something like your problem, but i have done lots of chimney flashings.  One thing I have always been told by my mentors as well as the flashing contractors i have hired to flash my larger jobs is to never mix copper and aluminum where water can come in contact between the two metals.
Tinker

Your'e correct, no copper against aluminum. You have to be careful with aluminum against treat lumber as it contains copper.

Tom

Why's that then?

The copper is a much more noble metal (20 -22 step separation). The less noble metal will become the anode and be consumed in in the reaction process.

Here is a chart that shows the metal separation, the closer they are on the chart to each other the less reactive they are, the farther apart the more reactive.

http://www.grabberman.com/Media/TechnicalData/127.pdf

I've seen holes in flashing in less than a month in wet weather with uncoated aluminum.
Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

If, why copper in the timber, don't know, kills bugs I suppose.

Richard.

(edit:  took word out & changed another word.)

Cooper is a fungicide, there to prevent wood fungus.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

As Darcy said, the Vycor is not needed on top of the joists. If you want to put a small piece on top of the intersection between the ledger and joist to act as a cap do that.

There should be Vycor across the top of your built up beam or any doubled joists. Gotta keep the water out of the seam. Do not seal the bottom.

Poke the rim and sill plate with a screwdriver, if it feels solid leave it. It will dry out. If it is mushy replace it.

Now that the joist hangers are released it appears as if the wrong nails were used. (I'll be back after I look at the first pics.)

The hangers appear to be Simpson LUS28 hangers. The reason I believe the used the wrong nails is I do not see the nail holes for the double shear nails in the ledger. From the looks of it they used N10 or N8 nails in all the holes (there is no such thing as a joist hanger nail). The angled holes should have received 3" (4-10d)  HDG nails. The flange to ledger should have been 3" (6-10d) also. The hanger will have the nail type and count on it.

Tom

 

[skids]

As Darcy said, the Vycor is not needed on top of the joists. If you want to put a small piece on top of the intersection between the ledger and joist to act as a cap do that.

There should be Vycor across the top of your built up beam or any doubled joists. Gotta keep the water out of the seam. Do not seal the bottom.

Poke the rim and sill plate with a screwdriver, if it feels solid leave it. It will dry out. If it is mussy replace it.

Now that the joist hangers are released it appears as if the wrong nails were used. (I'll be back after I look at the first pics.)

The hangers appear to be Simpson LUS28 hangers. The reason I believe the used the wrong nails is I do not see the nail holes for the double shear nails in the ledger. From the looks of it they used N10 or N8 nails in all the holes (there is no such thing as a joist hanger nail). The angled holes should have received 3"  HDG nails. The flange to ledger should have been 3" also. The hanger will have the nail type and count on it.

Tom

Wow! You have a sharp eye! You are correct wrong nails through the hangers, they used 1.5 inchers for the joist/ledger connection. Just tonailed the joists to the ledger instead. Basically anywhere they could shoot a nail they did.

When I go back I will use the 3 inch nails for that connection and 1.5 inchers for the ledger connection.

There is a small amount of surface mush on that area but not deep. Should I scrap cutting it out?

You are good Tom!! Thanks for following this and helping me out

 

[tjbnwi]

The ledger connection is 10-d also. 10-d HDG in all hole on that hanger to meet the load spec. No N10 or N8.

If it is just on the surface, don't bother cutting it out. If you could let it breath over night it may help it dry out.

Tom

 

[skids]

The ledger connection is 10-d also. 10-d HDG in all hole on that hanger to meet the load spec. No N10 or N8.

If it is just on the surface, don't bother cutting it out. If you could let it breath over night it may help it dry out.

Tom

I will know more about the sill tomorrow as I cut back all the sheathing under the slider to get a full view. If its all like this I will leave it.

Is it worth replacing the sheathing with PT sheathing? Or zip wall?

Once I get the new plywood in first step is to vycor before ledger correct? That's how Gary Katz did it.

Thanks again