Best cabinet construction method?

[jaguar36]

I'm starting a project for some Living Room built-ins that the cases will be painted maple plywood.  I've tried a few different cabinet construciton methods in the past and am trying to decide the best one to use.  I know *best* is always debatable, and have read a few different threads here where everyone seems to have their favorite method.  I'll be doing it in a small shop, so no fancy pneumatic case clamps or anything.

The methods I'm kicking around are:

Dominos: I did this on the last set of cabinets I made and wasn't super pleased with it.  It seemed time consuming and fiddly.  Could just be that my technique needs refinement though.

Pocket screws:  Everyone's favorite love/hate!  Seems quick and easy, should be able to hide almost all of them too I think.

Screws + Dado's: Norm's method, seems quick, easy and strong.  Make the dado's on the MFT with a router on the guide track, throw some screws and glue in it and done.  I'm leaning towards this way now.

Anyone have a better method?

 

[bobfog]

I'm embarking on something very similar myself in the near future, but using pre-lacquered oak veneer.

After making some sample joints from scrap, I've settled on Dominos + pocket screws.

My chosen method for the main body/carcass is going to be a 6mm domino every 12" (no glue) for keeping all the parts aligned and two side-by-side pocket screws between every domino for clamping.

 

[Holmz]

Lamello zetap2 with tenso would be the quickest.
ClampX would allow you to break them down.

 

[jaguar36]

Lamello zetap2 with tenso would be the quickest.
ClampX would allow you to break them down.

A Lamello would be awesome, I don't build enough cabinets to justify its purchase in addition to the domino though.

 

[nickao]

I use a combination of methods and it definitely changes depending on the job. I like pocket screws for face frames(if you are using face frames), but I dont use them for some high end cabinets.

I always liked the system sommerfeld uses to make cabinets, check out his site:
http://sommerfeldtools.com/woodworking-made-easy/cabinet-plans
http://sommerfeldtools.com/

I have used all his stuff, from his router table to the DVD's. I  made the raised door panels and carcasses his way, it's a fast, simple and easy to learn system. And the results are rock solid.

 

[Holmz]

Lamello zetap2 with tenso would be the quickest.
ClampX would allow you to break them down.

A Lamello would be awesome, I don't build enough cabinets to justify its purchase in addition to the domino though.

Yes - but the Domino seems "forced" in that application.
Ideally we would have friends, and not all have a limited selection that was all the same.

I am thinking about selling the DX700, as I have more use for the Lamello.
But I now see how sheets can be done nicely and not stapled or looking badly constructed.

 

[QuailRider43]

I chose confirmat style screws placed every 5" for my current build (euro style cabinets with full overlay back), and am very pleased with the results.  Very strong, can take apart and redo if you make a mistake, uses simple butt joints, and doesn't require expensive equipment.  Just a step drill bit which can be had for ~$20.  The screws were a bit of a pain to source in Canada, but I found a supplier that sold in bulk for $0.11 each.  Avoid the orange box store - they sell them but are overpriced.  The key to this method is clamping everything square as you drill and screw, for which I rely on the Festool MFT with fence, clamping elements, and QWAS dogs.  Easy, cheap (except for the Festool stuff!), forgiving, and strong... that makes it the best in my books.

 

[sancho57]

2 dominos per joint and 2 screws., if ya don't have a domino 4 screws per a joint will work. PH take to much time


Now the assy there is a video in between this one below and the one above.


You also need to consider how are your going to secure your shelfs, you could just screw them to if you want fixed shelves

 

[bobfog]

2 dominos per joint and 2 screws., if ya don't have a domino 4 screws per a joint will work. PH take to much time


Now the assy there is a video in between this one below and the one above.


You also need to consider how are your going to secure your shelfs, you could just screw them to if you want fixed shelves

Pocket holes take too much time?

Sure, it's not quite as quick as driving a screw straight into a butt joint, but it's hardly a slow method. Especially if you consider the need to pilot drill anyway.

 

[woodsmann]

I like a mix.

• For inside sides, biscuits (for alignment) and screws
  
• For outside sides, biscuits and pocket holes

 

[pettyconstruction]

So,I don't want to derail the op's thread,but I have a noob question.

Looking at the pics of cabinet construction on this site,I have seen several pics of cabinets with 2 pocket holes next to each other.
Why is that? Added strength ?
Ease of construction?
Thanks in advance,Charlie

 

[erock]

So,I don't want to derail the op's thread,but I have a noob question.

Looking at the pics of cabinet construction on this site,I have seen several pics of cabinets with 2 pocket holes next to each other.
Why is that? Added strength ?
Ease of construction?
Thanks in advance,Charlie

That could be because of the way the jig is set up.  Some of the Kreg jigs have 3 hole locations, like the K4 and K5.    If the guy drills out two holes while the piece is clamped into the jig, you'll get two holes next to each other.    My opinion, it's not needed.  I try to keep my pocket holes 6 - 8 inches apart.

Eric

 

[pettyconstruction]

Thanks Eric,
I didn't get the idea,seems a bit to much.

My kreg jig has 3 holes,but only use one at a time.
Charlie

 

[Billedis]

I use the Sommerfeld tongue and groove method to attaching face frames to side panels.  Bill

 

[bobfog]

So,I don't want to derail the op's thread,but I have a noob question.

Looking at the pics of cabinet construction on this site,I have seen several pics of cabinets with 2 pocket holes next to each other.
Why is that? Added strength ?
Ease of construction?
Thanks in advance,Charlie

It's just a little bit of extra security.

A single screw won't put up much of a fight when it comes to expansion/contraction in sheet materials, but two side-by-side screws will stand a better chance. Especially if the cabinets are painted, then taking the time to drill an extra screw whilst the jig is in place and driving a second screw might make the difference between a crack forming in the paint where the joints meet.

Seems like a no brainer and a quick win to me.

 

[morgan]

So,I don't want to derail the op's thread,but I have a noob question.

Looking at the pics of cabinet construction on this site,I have seen several pics of cabinets with 2 pocket holes next to each other.
Why is that? Added strength ?
Ease of construction?
Thanks in advance,Charlie

Having 2 pocket holes next to each other works well so you can use the 90° Kreg clamp to keep everything aligned while driving a screw in the adjacent hole. I only do this near the front and back of my casework, in the middle I only drill 1 hole. 

 

[webfarmer]

Two pocket holes in proximity, allow the use of a Kreg clamp to close the joint while one drives a screw into the adjacent hole.  Less movement, more stability.

If you are talented holding the pieces in place, true, and flat; then I guess a single hole is fine.  If one is using dominoes to align the joint, then a single screw would also suffice.

 

[sancho57]

Since getting into the 32mm system I don't use face frames much. But when I do then I'll pocket hole them to the cab.

In this case there are a couple of rules of thought on cab construction. One is to build the cab box and PH the f/f to the box.

The other is to build the f/f and pocket hole the cab in PCs side to f/f other side to the f/f then bottom etc etc.
The thought of this method is the cab will fit the f/f precisely with little or no sanding.

When using face frames I prefer attaching the f/f to the box and using a router to flush it up if necessary.

Or you can just nail the f/f to the cab if ya can match the filler to the stain or if it's paint grade

It's a lot of extra work which is why I per the 32mm system.

 

[JimD]

I do not have a domino but if I had one, I think it would be a good way to keep the pieces from sliding when using pocket screws.  I could probably do the same thing with biscuits but haven't tried it.  With a kreg clamp on the joint, it doesnt' move much.

I've built shop cabinets and one complete kitchen, so far.  I've also used conformat screws on a kitchenette and liked them.  In melamine particle board I would do that again.  The particle board does not hold a drywall screw or woodworking screw well.  I built a kitchenette of melamine with conformant screws and was happy with the result - for a kitchenette in the basement.

My kitchen build was of 3/4 oak plywood without face frames.  Cabinets were all glued and through screwed together.  Screw holes were plugged where they showed.  Doors were raised panel solid oak.  I found shallow dados (1/8 or a bit less) very handy for lining things up.  I still use them when I think to take the time.  A router on the tracksaw track is a good way to make the shallow dados.  3/4 is about right for the typical 23/32 plywood.  You need a little clearance to get things to go together before the glue starts to set up.  To plug screw holes where they are not noticeable, I use a little bit that drills a 3/8 countersink to make the screw hole and then cut plugs out of a piece of scrap on the drillpress.  If you align the grain and sand the plug flush, the plug does not stand out and we think it looks fine.  If you are painting, my favorite way to fill the plug holes is with bondo. 

Through screws or pocket screws with glue is kind of crude but plenty strong.  With shallow dados it is easy to line things up during assembly.  I usually use a picture frame clamp to hold the pieces square when screwing the joint but plan to switch to a squaring jig on my Paulk style workbench.  I don't see a reason to make things more complicated than this when screws and glue work so well.

I don't normally do it but another reason for two screws close together is in case one strips out or doesn't hold well.  It's pretty hard to go back and drill another hole once you start assembly.  My biggest gripe about pocket screws is not that they don't hold well but that it's too easy to sink them too deep where they poke out the finished side.  Especially in plywood.  Through screws do not have that risk.

Lastly, if you have a spot where you really do not want a plugged screw to show, you can just glue the joint, possibly with a bit deeper dado, and clamp it until the glue sets.  A couple brads at shallow angles across the joint on the inside can also pin it while you're waiting on the glue.

 

[jaguar36]

I'm surprised that nobody seems to like the rabbet/dado and screw method.  My thought is that with the router setup on the guide track, and a plywood width straight bit, making dados on the MFT will be quick and easy.  Then just drop a couple regular screws in it.  Obviously won't work where the screws would show, but they aren't going to 95% of the time.  The rest of the time I can use dominos.