Can't believe I just bought a Kapex!

[hockey_magnet]

I don't think beating the $50 price increase is much of an "excuse". Actually, the reason I bought it was that someone asked me to do a job installing 8" baseboards. My 12" Hitachi, which has been a good saw, is only a single bevel and I've never had to use bevel cutting to mitre baseboard with it and having a single bevel is not the ideal solution.. Given that every review points to the Kapex as being the ultimate for accurate bevel cuts, I bit the bullet (hard) and went for it. At least it will match the C15 and RO 90 so I'll be more colour co-ordinated (although the Hitachi is pretty green too). Going to use it with my good old shop vac but those darn CT's are calling me! [sad].

 

[GPowers]

hockey_magnet i have been look real hard at buying a Kapex, Maybe I will pull the tiger before the end of the month. The the question is do you buy the folding stand and the extensions too?

 

[PaulMarcel]

hockey_magnet i have been look real hard at buying a Kapex, Maybe I will pull the tiger before the end of the month. The the question is do you buy the folding stand and the extensions too?

Do we have to ask you to install 8" baseboards, too?  I'm sure someone can...

 

[GPowers]

hockey_magnet i have been look real hard at buying a Kapex, Maybe I will pull the tiger before the end of the month. The the question is do you buy the folding stand and the extensions too?

Do we have to ask you to install 8" baseboards, too?  I'm sure someone can...

Just finished re-doing  two small bathrooms. I used my old trusty GMC sliding miter saw. Bought it based on price, it was the cheapest sliding miter I could find. Of course that was pre-Festool.  The GMC is a framing grade saw not a finish saw. Might be able to get $100 on CL.

 

[hockey_magnet]

hockey_magnet i have been look real hard at buying a Kapex, Maybe I will pull the tiger before the end of the month. The the question is do you buy the folding stand and the extensions too?

At over $900 The UG stand is way over my budget for a stand, no matter how good it is.

Maybe if it was just a couple of small rooms, I wouldn't have taken the plunge but it's about 400 linear feet, base and 1/4 round, with 30 inside and 20 outside corners - old house, nothing square - so I'm hoping the Kapex will make it a little easier - I'm also going to see if the Kapex will enable inside corners to be mitred instead of coped as the baseboard is just rounded top, no contours.

Chris

 

[TomGadwa1]

Talk to some various dealers and see if they can offer a "package deal" as the price of 900 includes the left and right extensions. I purchased the complete set and the quality is very high. And it can be set up for shop use by adding casters per a prior post I did. That makes it easy to move it off to the side when the saw is not in use. This way it can remain on the UG stand and at a moments notice be converted for portable use on a job site. Once the job is done in five minutes or less the stand can be set back to being suited for home shop use. I bought the best saw so I felt what the heck it deserves the best stand as well. After all it is only your hard earned money that you are investing.

 

[GPowers]

Talk to some various dealers and see if they can offer a "package deal" as the price of 900 includes the left and right extensions. I purchased the complete set and the quality is very high. And it can be set up for shop use by adding casters per a prior post I did. That makes it easy to move it off to the side when the saw is not in use. This way it can remain on the UG stand and at a moments notice be converted for portable use on a job site. Once the job is done in five minutes or less the stand can be set back to being suited for home shop use. I bought the best saw so I felt what the heck it deserves the best stand as well. After all it is only your hard earned money that you are investing.

Package price for the UG cart and the extensions (left and Right) is $800

 

[hockey_magnet]

Talk to some various dealers and see if they can offer a "package deal" as the price of 900 includes the left and right extensions. I purchased the complete set and the quality is very high. And it can be set up for shop use by adding casters per a prior post I did. That makes it easy to move it off to the side when the saw is not in use. This way it can remain on the UG stand and at a moments notice be converted for portable use on a job site. Once the job is done in five minutes or less the stand can be set back to being suited for home shop use. I bought the best saw so I felt what the heck it deserves the best stand as well. After all it is only your hard earned money that you are investing.

Package price for the UG cart and the extensions (left and Right) is $800

$900 in Canada [smile]

 

[erock]

Hockey,  

  You lucky dog.   I am in the process of saving some cash for a Kapex.   I have a nice side job starting next weekend.  And I plan on saving
up until June or July.  I hope you enjoy your new toy!  Have fun cutting that baseboard!

Eric

 

[sancho57]

My Kapex is stationary in my shop, I use a shop vac for dust collection a 9 gal rigid, works just fine.  I got tired of unplugging moving and plugging/ unplugging my CT 26 all the time

 

[Kevin Stricker]

hockey_magnet i have been look real hard at buying a Kapex, Maybe I will pull the tiger before the end of the month. The the question is do you buy the folding stand and the extensions too?

- old house, nothing square - so I'm hoping the Kapex will make it a little easier - I'm also going to see if the Kapex will enable inside corners to be mitred instead of coped as the baseboard is just rounded top, no contours.

To me that is the ideal base to cope.  Why go through the brain damage mitering out of whack corners when coping is easier and faster( and produces better results?  It also cuts the number of beveled cuts in half.  Here is a trick for coping simple base, once you cut your inside miter ( to outline your coped edge) bring the saw back up to a -5 degree angle and place a spacer behind the base to get it away from the fence and back bevel the bottom square portion of the base.  Now you only have to deal with coping the top profiled section. 

Get used to playing the clamp swapping game, but try to clamp every cut if you can.  8" on the bevel is asking for some creep.  Also remove the aux fences and leave them at home.

 

[mike metz]

I Just ordered one tonight!!! been saving for a little while and i just landed a nice side job today... So why not!!

 

[hockey_magnet]

hockey_magnet i have been look real hard at buying a Kapex, Maybe I will pull the tiger before the end of the month. The the question is do you buy the folding stand and the extensions too?

- old house, nothing square - so I'm hoping the Kapex will make it a little easier - I'm also going to see if the Kapex will enable inside corners to be mitred instead of coped as the baseboard is just rounded top, no contours.

To me that is the ideal base to cope.  Why go through the brain damage mitering out of whack corners when coping is easier and faster( and produces better results?  It also cuts the number of beveled cuts in half.  Here is a trick for coping simple base, once you cut your inside miter ( to outline your coped edge) bring the saw back up to a -5 degree angle and place a spacer behind the base to get it away from the fence and back bevel the bottom square portion of the base.  Now you only have to deal with coping the top profiled section. 

Get used to playing the clamp swapping game, but try to clamp every cut if you can.  8" on the bevel is asking for some creep.  Also remove the aux fences and leave them at home.

Thanks for the advice Kevin. I thought the mitres will look better as it's a solid straight 1" thick base with just a top curve, no contours in the profile, BUT if the corners are as bad as they looked at first inspection, you are probably right. I picked one of these up at Lee Valley  Easy Coper - I was looking at the Collins Foot as well but this seems like it might speed things up as opposed to hand coping. Any opinions?

Chris 

 

[Kevin Stricker]

That looks interesting. I don't do a lot of crown so no coping foot. I tend to just use a coping saw,grinder,rasp, and chisel.  The big thing to remember is not to nail the corner you are coping to so you can shim it out if your cope is not tight enough. With a miter it can look perfect tell you nail it and then it opens and you don't have a lot of options. I think this job would be a good one to practice your coping skills. I mitered everything for years, and used lots of caulk in the process.

 

[sl_1800]

You will love your Kapex.  I bought one this winter and I'm installing new base and crown in my master bedroom and living room as we speak.  This saw is fantastic!!!

 

[hockey_magnet]

Thanks Kevin, useful information as I never thought to not nail the board I'm coping to.

That looks interesting. I don't do a lot of crown so no coping foot. I tend to just use a coping saw,grinder,rasp, and chisel.  The big thing to remember is not to nail the corner you are coping to so you can shim it out if your cope is not tight enough. With a miter it can look perfect tell you nail it and then it opens and you don't have a lot of options. I think this job would be a good one to practice your coping skills. I mitered everything for years, and used lots of caulk in the process.