Carvex pendulum fix

tsmi243 said:
Gentlemen-

If you do this mod, and the blade eject jams up...... Back it off a couple threads.  JFC that was frustrating to figure out.

I also had to clearance the housing a tiny bit, the 12mm length was a little much.  No big deal.  If I take this god forsaken thing apart again, I'm going to drill a thru-hole so I can adjust the tension without disassembly.

Just did this on my PS 420. My Carvex is from Recon so my warranty is up soon. Why not? The trickiest part was removing the pin but otherwise it's an easy mod. And yeah, the 12mm grub is just a bit too long. I used the tip of a utility blade to carve out a hole for the extra length and to allow front access for the Allen key. The Allen head can be accessed with the chip guard lowered.

I've got lots of extra screws if anyone wants one. PM your address. [member=32478]mcooley[/member] yours will get dropped in the mailbox tomorrow.

[cool]

 

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So, I own a Trion and I like it...I own a Carvex and I hate it...I also own a P1 cc and I love it. For those who've done this modification, what are the advantages? What does this modification provide that a standard Carvex doesn't? What exactly is the itch that this modification scratches?
 
Cheese said:
So, I own a Trion and I like it...I own a Carvex and I hate it...I also own a P1 cc and I love it. For those who've done this modification, what are the advantages? What does this modification provide that a standard Carvex doesn't? What exactly is the itch that this modification scratches?

I'll make some cuts with mine tomorrow and report back to you.

I primarily use my jigsaw for rough cuts to remove material before flushing it up with the router. When I can't use the band saw, I have to use the jigsaw. Historically, I've always had bad jigsaw technique. I can remember trying to cut out skateboard blanks back in the 80s with an old Black & Decker and I got terrible cuts then. I get slightly less terrible cuts now. I don't respect the jigsaw and it doesn't respect me ;)

I assumed the play in my Carvex was normal and I ignored it. As I watched the source video and read other comments about Mafell's jigsaw, I thought maybe something is up. So I figured I'd make the mod and see what happens.

I have low expectations. If I get cleaner cuts without the slop in the blade column, great! If not, then that's fine too. My unscientific thought is that my Carvex sounds like it's running smoother with the screw in place. However, I don't expect to notice much of a difference. I am hoping to be surprised.

Anyway, I've seen other people get really clean cuts with a jigsaw so I know it's possible. Maybe I need to practice holding it upside down?

 
Cheese said:
So, I own a Trion and I like it...I own a Carvex and I hate it...I also own a P1 cc and I love it. For those who've done this modification, what are the advantages? What does this modification provide that a standard Carvex doesn't? What exactly is the itch that this modification scratches?

I never could quite describe why the Carvex "feels weird".  But replacing this pin makes it feel totally different.  Definitely reduces the "I hate this thing" feelings.  I notice that starting a cut takes less conscious effort, which makes sense if the piston has been drifting the whole time I've owned it. 

I'll put a few more miles on it and report back.  But so far, it's a big improvement.  I have a Trion too, so I'll hook em both up and do a side by side.
 
If there is any load at all being placed on that grub screw while the carvex is working, wouldn't the threads give up pretty quickly and create another version of the original problem?
 
Is it just me being cynical - or is it too much to expect that a £400 jigsaw shouldn't need fixing by its owners?

And if you want clean cuts, how about using a downcut blade, a splinterguard, and backing the pendulum action way back? It all seems so simple to me ….
 
bwehman said:
If there is any load at all being placed on that grub screw while the carvex is working, wouldn't the threads give up pretty quickly and create another version of the original problem?

Quicker than the factory press-fit did?  Not likely.

woodbutcherbower said:
Is it just me being cynical - or is it too much to expect that a £400 jigsaw shouldn't need fixing by its owners?

Bought mine used.  If the choice is to either spend ten bucks or pout, I guess I'm spending ten bucks.
 
I spent a bit of time this morning making test cuts in scrap wood. As I mentioned before, my experience with jigsaws doesn't run very deep so take this with a grain of salt, but the Carvex seems to have a more stable feel to it. I backed the screw out to mimic the OEM pin location and it felt like there was a bit more vibration. The cut quality was more or less the same as was the maneuverability cutting curves.

Maybe a placebo effect? I don't really know. If you're a heavy jigsaw user, you'll probably notice the difference much more than I did.

However, the thing that really made a difference in the cut quality was also installing a splinterguard. I believe that's the key to getting really clean cuts with the Carvex and I'll have to spend more time using the Carvex now that I know what it's capable of.

tsmi243 said:
If the choice is to either spend ten bucks or pout, I guess I'm spending ten bucks.

My thoughts, too. I don't feel like I've done any harm to the tool. I have the ability to snug up the column or go back to the looser, OEM setting, with a couple turns of the hex key.

I have 6 5 3 2 stamps left so if anyone wants a screw, PM your address and I'll drop it in the mail.
[cool]
 
Crazyraceguy said:
We're cleaning out my grandmother-in-law's house; I haven't seen that many stamps with actual cent values since I cleaned out the junk boxes I still had from my college dorm...  I wonder if I could put 58 of the "makeup" stamps on a single envelope and get away with it...  I think I have the 2-cent makeup stamps, too.  Those'll come in handy this July...
I do this all the time.  I will buy discontinued stamps on E-bay at $.70-$.75 on the dollar, save the interesting ones for a grandchild, and will send out envelopes with 4 or 5 stamps on the envelope at a time.  Working through some $.13 cent Christmas stamps right now.  A bunch of the stamps were from the 1950's, some even 1940's. It takes some research sometimes to figure out how to use the "F" or "G" stamps or the "add on to first class" memo stamp.
 
Cheese said:
So, I own a Trion and I like it...I own a Carvex and I hate it...I also own a P1 cc and I love it. For those who've done this modification, what are the advantages? What does this modification provide that a standard Carvex doesn't? What exactly is the itch that this modification scratches?

Don’t expect an answer to your question [member=44099]Cheese[/member] - just as I never expected a response to mine.  It’s been my overwhelming experience on here that anything direct, anti-grey-and-green, real-world or logical will be ignored by the hobby-shop faithful who don’t have client projects to bring in on time and on budget, but who do have time to dismantle and modify tools which don’t do what they’re supposed to. I also have a P1CC which I use to earn a living, and it’s blade doesn’t wander, it cuts at 90 degrees to the surface all of the time, and it doesn’t need stamps or Chinese Amazon grubscrews so the owners can get it to work properly.

Interestingly enough - my P1CC actually broke down recently. It was eventually repaired FOC out of warranty by the UK importer, but before they played ball, I posted on here seeking advice on possibly replacing it with a Carvex. The answer from the sadly restricted number of unblinkered contributors on here was an almost unanimous ‘don’t’.

I’d rather have a mind opened by wonder, than closed by faith. If you dare to challenge the order, you’re labelled as a ‘pouter’.
 

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Soon your P1CC and your Hilti, woodbutcherbower, will join the bench, as there will be a:
Cordless P1CC - Mafell joined the CAS battery platform - how long do you think they’ll let Carvex dominate the large scale builders out there?  [big grin] Cause they are: Makita and Bosch cordless jigsaws and the Carvex for the more discerning, really dominate the cordless when it comes to pro-use/building sites.

Serious joke aside, I love/hate the Carvex, but it cuts straighter than anything but P1CC and Trion.
 
We have realistically zero presence with Mafell here in the US. So, it not surprising that there a few fans here.  As I have always said, I consider a jig saw to be one step up from a recip saw and don't expect much more from it than that. I rough cut parts to be flush trimmed with a router or small notches and things, that's about it. I bought the Carvex when I needed a replacement after the fire. Previously I had a Bosch (corded) with the ratchet-type screw-lever thing for tightening the blade. I never really liked that mechanism, but it was ok as a saw. I let someone use it one time and they somehow overly unscrewed that thing and it wouldn't tighten after that. I had to send it for repair. The other jig saw I had was the first generation of the Makita 18v cordless. That was the most disappointing tool purchase I ever made. I was very expensive, very heavy, and cumbersome. All it had going for it was "handy". I could pull it out, make a cut and put it back in seconds, no cord to wind up. The new ones may be better, but they will never get a chance. The plug-it system is just as easy to deal with as cordless, so I'm quite happy with mine.
I bought the Carvex, over the Trion, simply because of weight. Have you ever held the two side-by-side? The difference is incredible.
 
woodbutcherbower said:
Cheese said:
So, I own a Trion and I like it...I own a Carvex and I hate it...I also own a P1 cc and I love it. For those who've done this modification, what are the advantages? What does this modification provide that a standard Carvex doesn't? What exactly is the itch that this modification scratches?

Don’t expect an answer to your question [member=44099]Cheese[/member] - just as I never expected a response to mine.  It’s been my overwhelming experience on here that anything direct, anti-grey-and-green, real-world or logical will be ignored by the hobby-shop faithful who don’t have client projects to bring in on time and on budget, but who do have time to dismantle and modify tools which don’t do what they’re supposed to. I also have a P1CC which I use to earn a living, and it’s blade doesn’t wander, it cuts at 90 degrees to the surface all of the time, and it doesn’t need stamps or Chinese Amazon grubscrews so the owners can get it to work properly.

Interestingly enough - my P1CC actually broke down recently. It was eventually repaired FOC out of warranty by the UK importer, but before they played ball, I posted on here seeking advice on possibly replacing it with a Carvex. The answer from the sadly restricted number of unblinkered contributors on here was an almost unanimous ‘don’t’.

I’d rather have a mind opened by wonder, than closed by faith. If you dare to challenge the order, you’re labelled as a ‘pouter’.

You're not "challenging the order".  You're pouting.  Comment stands.
 
FestitaMakool said:
Serious joke aside, I love/hate the Carvex, but it cuts straighter than anything but P1CC and Trion.

You haven't tried many jigsws then, have you? The Carvex is worse then €25 big box store jigsaws.

Just because of the problem we talk about here in this thread. The shaft is allowed to go wherever it wants. It lacks a roller in the back as support, and the adjustable jaws on the side of the blade just lead to a sparkfest.

My 25 year old Metabo is 25 times better. Not one hitch in 25 years and still working as on the day I bought it. My used Carvex is 4 years old, strobe light is permanently on on one side, and the blade change mechanism jams all the time. Sometimes, when fiddling with the mechanism, the spring releases, almost taking out your eye when the blade ejects with force. Honestly??

I only keep my Carvex because it came for free and I can use a cordless jigsaws for some things. It works fine with laminate flooring, you don't need much precision there.

I got the saw basically for free because it was part of a lot of Festools I bought. Resold some of them I don't needed, kept a few, and figured I'd try out the Carvex and sell it off if I didn't like it.

To be honest, I dare not sell it with a straight face.
 
I never realized it was that bad. Happy I got the Trion.  [tongue]
 
I have two Carvex's a PS 420 EBQ this is an older unit "not under warranty" and a newer PSQ 420 EB. The older saw the blade shakes and will not start a straight cut unless I push the saw into the material prior to starting it then it will cut straight but not a safe way for me to do it. The newer saw has no looseness in the blade it is held in place against the carbide at all times I do not even have to pull the blade back to adjust the carbide, this is the way my old Bosch Swiss made saw is, so I installed a 4mm x 10mm grub screw in my older saw and adjusted it so that it is under tension when I install a new blade and loose enough to eject, it is held against the carbide with a light tension from the grub screw but still has room that I can take the blade and pull it away from the carbide with my finger under grub screw tension. it now works like my new saw and my older Swiss made Bosch. But because of the thicker Festool blade it will cut a better 90deg than my old Bosch does. I truly believe the thicker Festool Carvex blades are a game changer for me.
 
Alex said:
FestitaMakool said:
Serious joke aside, I love/hate the Carvex, but it cuts straighter than anything but P1CC and Trion.

You haven't tried many jigsws then, have you? The Carvex is worse then €25 big box store jigsaws.

A few.. Bosch blue and green, Makita, DeWalt and Festool’s + listening to the people that bash these tools daily where Bosch triumph for price/performance

Just because of the problem we talk about here in this thread. The shaft is allowed to go wherever it wants. It lacks a roller in the back as support, and the adjustable jaws on the side of the blade just lead to a sparkfest.

If it sparks it’s wrongly or not adjusted properly (Yes it’s a PITA to do this, but it works - better keep to the same blade thickness..) Do you use Festool blades? Mafell too will perform much worse with thin blades, if they even fit? - all jigsaws will do…

My 25 year old Metabo is 25 times better. Not one hitch in 25 years and still working as on the day I bought it. My used Carvex is 4 years old, strobe light is permanently on on one side, and the blade change mechanism jams all the time. Sometimes, when fiddling with the mechanism, the spring releases, almost taking out your eye when the blade ejects with force. Honestly??

Yes, it’s a high maintenance tool to get the most of it - They made the tools better in the past, at least some - if I spot an old Metabo for sale I’ll see if I can jump on it!  [big grin]

I only keep my Carvex because it came for free and I can use a cordless jigsaws for some things. It works fine with laminate flooring, you don't need much precision there.

Yes you do, that material chips like nothing else, unless the skirting is very thick.. but any jigsaw can cut relatively straight in so thin material

I got the saw basically for free because it was part of a lot of Festools I bought. Resold some of them I don't needed, kept a few, and figured I'd try out the Carvex and sell it off if I didn't like it.

To be honest, I dare not sell it with a straight face.

Off course you can, but are your saw well? Judging by your experience it’s seems well worn?

Good to have you swinging again Alex  [big grin]
Well, we might not be agreeable in all aspect’s, but see above.

Used with the thicker Festool blades, carbides adjusted properly, I get much better cuts than any other jigsaw I’ve used before.
Handling: None of the Carvex’s are pleasing to me, but I like mine D handle better than the barrel grip which is too long and back heavy.
 
FestitaMakool said:
[member=5277]Alex[/member]
- Why don’t your Carvex have a rolling back guide?
Mine has..

They do, but by default the blade starts out not touching the roller. That is part of the problem.
 
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