Cedar Cladding

J

jmbfestool

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Joined
Jan 9, 2009
Messages
6,646
Looking at this job I hope ill be working on oak roof oak everything any way!      The building is going to be part cladded.  

I was asked whats the best stuff to clad the building with I suggested Cedar cladding.    I aint done it before my self!  sooooo

few questions!

Is it the best stuff to use?

How do you fix it to the building it aint been built yet! So it will be part brick or something  then I assume block work and then cladding.   Would you suggest to battern it and then clad it.  

Is der something I need to watch out for?  like movement shrinking. What type of fixings  copper nails?  What about allow ventilation does it need to breath all round?

How woud you suggest I do the corners?    

Where is the best place to buy the stuff from in the UK?  

Do I need to felt it like a roof like an extra precaution dont see the need just asking.

JMB
 
jmbfestool said:
Looking at this job I hope ill be working on oak roof oak everything any way!      The building is going to be part cladded.  

I was asked whats the best stuff to clad the building with I suggested Cedar cladding.    I aint done it before my self!  sooooo

few questions!

Is it the best stuff to use?

How do you fix it to the building it aint been built yet! So it will be part brick or something  then I assume block work and then cladding.   Would you suggest to battern it and then clad it.  

Is der something I need to watch out for?  like movement shrinking. What type of fixings  copper nails?  What about allow ventilation does it need to breath all round?

How woud you suggest I do the corners?    

Where is the best place to buy the stuff from in the UK?  

Do I need to felt it like a roof like an extra precaution dont see the need just asking.

JMB
Click to expand...

google silva timber, i would use stainless steel screws, silva sell grks
 
Thats the site I have been looking at!  I like the Cedar Channel is more like it. 

Is it a good company?

JMB
 
Not to far from me only 1 hour 20 mins!  Could get the client to have a look they have a show room!

JMB
 
i know someone that bought there decking and said it was very good, and very clear.
 
Deansocial said:
i know someone that bought there decking and said it was very good, and very clear.
Click to expand...

Done a little research and its seems alrite to me.

You on COD laters?  Need to try out new Zombies!

JMB
 
Hi mate,
Have done several projects with Cedar cladding and the most recent was a Devon longhouse a few weeks back.
It was the first time I had used Thermowood though and was very impressed with it. It was on a Timber frame which had breather membrane then battons (2 by 1 treated) Batons were just pasloded straight into the Ply wrapping the timber frame. Thermowood link http://www.finnforest.co.uk/products/exteriorcladdings/Pages/ThermoWood.aspx
I would like to use this stuff again. Its heat treated so is very very light to work with and also can be brittle close to the ends. We used bright stainless steel paslode nails to fix them on.
You have to keep the nails in line with each other and it also acts as a nice feature! You can buy a protector to stop the sharp point of the paslode damaging the face of the boards when you fire them on. But we made our own with strips of lead the roofer had left behind and some duct tape!
Have used several different types of cladding and fresh sawn wany edge cedar boards are lovely with Oak frames. Again just put on batons.
We use insect mesh around the windows and tops and at ground level. Building control love this stuff! stops insects and rodents (probably LOL). You just but it on a roll and staple it on where needed. Try and keep the cladding off the ground a bit around the base of the buildingc cos it can get messed up from rainfall etc. All the best and have fun with your cladding! Ps. if you dont have paslodes just buy the paslode nails (70's) and hammer them in by hand.
 
lol  Thank your for your advice!

I dont think you know me very well lol!

Of course I have a Paslode and I also have the rubber tip your on about for the paslode!  I hate using it as when it becomes slightly wet its very slippery on wood and if you have your gun on a angle it slide from underneath you!

I didnt think of using Paslode I was more thinking screwing to be honest but if paslode is good enough I rather use that.

No way would I be buying paslode nails to nail by hand .  I would get loose nails as I dont want to be pulling nails from strips take ages! and cost more for 1 and 2 I dont do hand stuff well I do but I wouldnt be doing alot of cladding by hand. 

Dont tell me you have bought paslode nails and stripped them down to use as single nails?  Thats not very cost affective  no?  Okay I some times take 1 or 2 nails from a strip of nails but not to do an entire job.

Ill look into the Thermowood more though

cheers dude

JMB
 
Instead of Cedar or other wood I would suggest Siberian Larch or Pine. They are slow growing and incredibly dense fibre plus lots of resin (though not like in resin pockets)
Only downside is price.
I am not sure if paslode is good idea - if you really have to go for ring nails (galvanized)
IMHO I think better wood be decking screws...
Arek
 
yeah me n jmb spoke about it lastnite and agreed decking screws would be best, stainless uns was what we was looking at.
 
when you nail close to a butt joint on the thermowood it is advisable to hand nail as the  impact can shatter the board. in cold temperatures the paslodes dont work too well so stripping them to hand nail becomes important. screwing cladding would take longer than pasloding it or even hand nailing it   plus nails look better. you would have to pre drill the butt joints to take screws.
 
but nails like popping out after a while. I would say depending on price you can do it in various ways. If it would be for me I would not only predrill holes but also sink them in and cover with dowel. That way you have no trace of fixings and looks awesome. But as I said depends what customer wants and can afford to pay...

 
you can get a clip system for cladding so there are no visible fixings.in devon cladding is mostly face nailed.
 
well kreg released their pocket hole system for desking but...
If you go for t&g then forget it...
 
Grey Heron said:
but nails like popping out after a while. I would say depending on price you can do it in various ways. If it would be for me I would not only predrill holes but also sink them in and cover with dowel. That way you have no trace of fixings and looks awesome. But as I said depends what customer wants and can afford to pay...
Click to expand...

Thats what I am thinking of doing if I do the job.  I much rather drill and pellet every screw I dont want to see any fixing really.  Glueing the pellets in what would you use? Would glue good enough?  I dont know if they will be treating the wood or just letting it weather I like wood to just weather but it will just turn grey over time and some people like it to keep its rich colour. 

I think I will definitely be screwing it as I just dont like using paslode for stuff like this CANT BELIEVE IM SAYING THIS lol  I use to be Paslode mad! Everything I did involved paslode! I use to fix skirting with First fix paslode  haaahaa Crazy!  I wouldnt think of doing it now only second fix!

JMB
 
jmbfestool said:
Grey Heron said:
but nails like popping out after a while. I would say depending on price you can do it in various ways. If it would be for me I would not only predrill holes but also sink them in and cover with dowel. That way you have no trace of fixings and looks awesome. But as I said depends what customer wants and can afford to pay...
Click to expand...

Thats what I am thinking of doing if I do the job.   I much rather drill and pellet every screw I dont want to see any fixing really.  Glueing the pellets in what would you use? Would glue good enough?  I dont know if they will be treating the wood or just letting it weather I like wood to just weather but it will just turn grey over time and some people like it to keep its rich colour. 

I think I will definitely be screwing it as I just dont like using paslode for stuff like this CANT BELIEVE IM SAYING THIS lol  I use to be Paslode mad! Everything I did involved paslode! I use to fix skirting with First fix paslode  haaahaa Crazy!  I wouldnt think of doing it now only second fix!

JMB
Click to expand...
I would go for very good exterior glue. If I am not wrong Titebond III is at least way to go. I don't think you would go for epoxy resins or formaldehyde glues.
Second thing is to get plug cutters slightly tappered so you hammer them in really tight with dab of glue and then they will sit forever.
LOL Paslode is for site joinery only and sometimes even not for that...
I prefer sunk screws and dowels or proper joins without nails. If you do them right -> no need for any steel in it.
In log cabin I am building only sarking boards and trusses have some bits of steel (trusses have bolts to anchor them on beams) apart from that there is no nails or bolts or any other fast fixings.
My great grandpa used to say: If you are doing something either do it well from start to the end or don't bother doing at all...  [big grin]
 
Grey Heron said:
My great grandpa used to say: If you are doing something either do it well from start to the end or don't bother doing at all...  [big grin]
Click to expand...

+1
 
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