Changing lock sets on an interior door.

[Packard]

Typically, changing a lock set on an interior door is a simple matter.  You remove the old lock set and replace it with the new one.

However, on my 1950s era home, the original lock sets required a smaller diameter, and with a slightly different set back.

Lacking anything for the center drill on my hole saw to drill into, the hole saw is unusable. 

Before I figured out how to do this, I used a rasp to remove the crescent shaped piece to allow the new lock set to fit.  Needless to say this was a lot of work (about an hour of filing and fitting).

For the second door, I figured out how to do this efficiently.

All lock sets are sold with a paper drilling pattern.  You tape the pattern to the door and use the center mark for your hole saw’s center bit.  Drill and you are ready for the latch cross drill. 

Instead of applying this pattern to the door, I applied it to a 12” square of 3/4” thick particle board (plywood or MDF will work also).

Important:  Draw the center line of the hole across the sheet and down the edge.  You will need that to locate the cross drilled hole. 

After applying the template and drawing the centerline, I drilled the hole through the plywood. 

Once that is done, I clamped the plywood over the older hole.  It showed a crescent shaped bit to remove.

At that point is is simply a matter of using the plywood as a jig for the hole saw.  Drill through.

Also important:  Make sure the centerline you drew aligned with the center of the existing cross drilled hole. 

Once the template is made, execution takes just minutes.  If you are replacing the lock sets for all the interior doors, it makes sense to do them all at the same time or to save the template for future use.

Note:  You need a fairly sizable piece of plywood as you will need to apply two clamps to hold it in place and still leave room to drill. On the first jig I made, I added a strip of wood to the edge of the plywood to locate the jig accurately.  That proved to be unnecessary.  It is easy enough to align it visually. 

It seems so obvious now, that I wonder why I ever tried to use a rasp on the first door. 

Maybe this will save one of you some time for your lock set replacement.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have done that a couple of different ways, depending on whether the hole just needed to be bigger or if it need to move off center.
There are a couple of approaches to moving it over. One is a simple jig made from drilling the new sized hole into a piece of plywood (or other sheet goods) and clamping it in place over the new location. The sides of the hole will act as a guide, rather than the centering drill bit.
It can also be done but plugging the original hole and drilling the new location with the normal pilot bit. This method is better if the hole needs to move far enough to expose part of the original hole.

For simply enlarging the hole in the same location, there is a little adaptor/tool that allows you to use a second (smaller) hole saw on combined with the larger one. The smaller saw has to be the same size as the original hole, then it becomes the pilot for the larger one.
IIRC it's call "oops arbor". I had one before the fire, but never replaced it, since I don't do installs anymore.
I just looked it up. The Starret version is about $20, but I'm sure there are others. Rockler also has one they call "CoPilot" $22?

 

[Packard]

I never heard of the “copilot”.  But the jig I made took 10 minutes and was made from scrap.  And I don’t have to worry about finding it in 5 years when I need it again (I threw it in the trash).

Even knowing about the copilot, I would make the jig again.  It cost nothing, took minutes to make and worked perfectly.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

At home, or in the shop, I would do the same. The advantage of the oops arbor or CoPilot things is mainly for installers. You keep it in a known place, like with the saws or maybe a drill bit case, then it's always ready. No scrap or clamps required. It's one of those expedient/handy but not required things, that you hope to not need very often.

 

[thudchkr]

At home, or in the shop, I would do the same. The advantage of the opps arbor or CoPilot things is mainly for installers. You keep it in a known place, like with the saws or maybe a drill bit case, then it's always ready. No scrap or clamps required. It's one of those expedient/handy but not required things, that you hope to not need very often.

I have the “oops arbor” and agree that it’s quite useful. It resides inside the case of my Lenox Big Daddy hole saw set.  It’s small enough that it can be stored in the space for spare pilot bits.

 

[luvmytoolz]

I used to hate changing locks at times, on many occasions they were done by a handyman who probably used the bluntest holesaw he could find, and would go in from both sides at an angle so they didn't meet up cleanly. I'd try and clean it up as best as possible with my lock jig and a forstner, but it really screwed with my mild OCD!

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have seen the same thing. Some handy men aren't so handy.

 

[Cheese]

I have the “oops arbor” and agree that it’s quite useful. It resides inside the case of my Lenox Big Daddy hole saw set.  It’s small enough that it can be stored in the space for spare pilot bits.

Here's a Starrett Oops arbor, it works really well for enlarging holes in thin sheet materials. An inexpensive $10 accessory that's come in handy a half-dozen times.  [smile]

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

 

[Packard]

It looks like it can only enlarge a hole that is concentric to the original, or perhaps I don’t understand how it is used.

 

[rst]

The adapters, as noted, only work if the new backset is the same as there are two available.  While commercial and many other locks are 2 3/4, 2 3/8 is also common, especially for interior doors.  Another consideration is, will the escutcheon over the new larger hole.

 

[Packard]

In my case, the holes would not be concentric.

The circumference of both holes meet at the point closest to the edge of the door.  That means that the larger hole removes a crescent that runs from due north and due south and the biggest chunk removed is the furthest from the edge of the door. If that device would only make a concentric hole that is larger than the existing hole, then that would not work.

 

[Cheese]

It looks like it can only enlarge a hole that is concentric to the original, or perhaps I don’t understand how it is used.

No you're correct, it's used for enlarging existing holes rather than moving holes.

 

[Packard]

So that device would not work for my situation.  The older hole was smaller, but the distance the latch is from the edge is fixed.  In that instance, the makeshift jig works perfectly. 

Just something to keep in mind if you ever come across that situation.

I recall going at the first door’s hole with a rasp.  No fun (though it worked).  I’m glad I figured out how to do this more easily.  I’ve only replaced four of the doors’ lock sets and two I replaced with barn doors. 

That leaves three more I will do at some time in the future.

 

[Michael Kellough]

I used the cordless Milwaukee router to move/enlarge a hole recently.
With a small bit the dust collection is very good and the led light makes it a lot easier to follow a line.

In the past I always used the pilot hole in scrap method to guide the hole saw.

 

[Packard]

I think you will find that the home made template method will be easier.

I mentioned I have additional door hardware to change and I forgot to include an additional 7 for the closets.  I am changing them as I repaint those rooms.  So 2 - 3 at a time.