I think it really does depend on what you're looking to do. If you're just goofing around with straight bits and occasional pattern work, I think I'd probably go with the 1100. I found it to be a sporty little unit that does smaller work well, and in conjunction with a 1/4" spiral flush bit, and the edging plate, it's unbeatable. I've never found the need for a sub-base, since it doesn't handle any of the heavy duty 1/2" shank bits that are used for serious edge profiling. If you're not a guy who used routers in your day to day, I think it's a great place to start. But, as with the other routers, you'll want to invest in accessories, so budget for that. It's a huge part of what makes the Festool routers worth the price. Edge guide, guide stop, edging plate, and possibly the fine depth adjustment.
I think that if you were going to need the benefits of the 700, you'd already have bought one. Likewise with the 2200.
Again, I think it's all about the router and the accessories, so I'm assuming you'd buy the 1400 with an edge guide AND the guide stop blocks. I use a guide stop as an outrigger in conjunction with the edge guide to keep it stable when I'm routing edge profiles, so I don't see the need for a sub-base. But I'm also told that if you have a need for the hole drilling kit, that it's a direct bolt-up, and holds the base alignment very well. Once you're used to the adjustment process with the guide stops, it's great for running dadoes in conjunction with the guide rails. It's good for all around plunge work, too. And while I'm not a fan of using plunge routers with dovetail or other trapped bits, the plunge lock is sufficiently solid that you could get away with it. So, for heavy duty stuff, the 1400 is an all around workhorse. So I think that it could be a good choice. But it might be overkill if you're not typically a router guy.
I have a lot of tools that I purchased because they were cool. I'm in the middle of trying to decide between selling off tools that are paid for, but not regularly used, and keeping them, but accepting that it means more hours lost to learning curves, and not to productivity. The router is a pretty fundamental tool for a lot of guys, but if you're successfully running a shop or a site business without one, my current position is driving me to warn you that if you don't need one yet, I'd only invest in one if you really think it will add to your business. A good router is, at heart, just a motor. The job determines the shape and type of tooling, and the accessories you'll need to help present the tool to the work in a safe manner. The moral of the story is that you don't really need to learn how to use a router. You need to learn how to use all of the bits and sets and accessories. And there are a LOT of bits and sets and accessories, that will (long term) cost you several times what the router does. If you include a box that will properly hold and protect your bits, and a box to hold and organize all of the bases, fences, fence accessories, collets, wrenches, hex keys, dust collection thingies, and other stuff, and a box for the work holding stuff, and a place to do the work... you're looking at 2 or 3 full systainers worth of "stuff," that will populate the work area. And the process of learning how it all works, and how to wrap your mind around it, and how to put it to productive use, will take a long time to be as profitable as it should.
I'm not trying to say that a router is a bad idea. It's the leatherman of the woodworking world... it can do all kinds of things, and it is extremely useful. I'm just trying to give you a realistic mental image of what you're getting yourself into. If you're only using it to cut a few dadoes once in a while, a small laminate trimmer may be all you need.
