Considering the boom arm, should I? What does it come with?

[JohnDistai]

I just put one together, but my memory is a little fuzzy.  Doesn't the bottom piece just snap into a holder that screws onto the CT?  I remember that there is a notch that the bottom sits in, but I don't remember there being any bolted connection of the arm to the handle.  Taking the top of the arm off is probably easiest, but I think that bottom part comes off fairly easily too.  Anyone with a better memory or more experience care to comment?

 

[harry_]

John,

from looking at pictures from both Brice and Dan, there is what looks like a metal (crome) ring around the lower section @ the handle and the 'block'. I am guessing it is a 'muffler clamp' of sorts. However I cannot really tell from the images.

It the lower section is a 'tool-less' removal then this entire issue for me is moot and a no-brainer. No brainers are right up my alley

 

[mavrick1903]

I've examined the unit at my local WC extensivly. the lower section is held in place with a wire loop. that wire loop can be pulled out, a Phillips #2 is required to loosen the retaining screw. after that, the bottom pops out easy peasy.

 

[JohnDistai]

I don't recall any clamps for the arm itself.  I believe one did come in the kit, but I'm not sure what it was for.  I do, however, remember the wire loop.  It goes around the bottom pole and attaches to a block on the handle.  The loop is there just to keep the bottom part of the boom arm from tipping over.  It was made to be pulled out.  Aside from that, I don't think there are any other attachments on that lower piece, other than molded plastic parts that the pole either slides or snaps into.  I don't think you'd have to cut anything.

On another note, there are a lot of posts about making your own arm.  I don't know that I'd do that.  This one comes with all the parts, and the hose and pigtail to connect your CT to other hoses and plug-it connection.  Using this would be a huge "no-brainer" over making one.

 

[Corwin]

That wire loop at the top of the handle does look to be readily removable.  I do remember that it was a rather tight fit on mine and wasn't all that easy to put on -- but after reading the above posts I looked and see now how one could just remove that loop to remove the lower tube.

The Boom Arm also includes a hose clamp that is supposed to get installed near the bottom of the lower tube.  Several people were not sure where this clamp was to be installed and what it was for.  That hose clamp is meant to be installed around the lower tube just below the upper bracket that the tube snaps into.  The clamp serves as a retainer to prevent the lower tube from lifting up and coming out of the lower bracket.  This is an important part to assure that the unit does not come apart and failure to install this clamp could prove catastrophic.  So, this hose clamp would have to be loosened to remove the lower tube and reinstalled when you reinstalled the tube.

 

[mavrick1903]

I wondered what the hose clamp was for. at my local WC it's not in a position to do anything. if it's there to prevent lift out, removing the wire loop would still enable the lower portion of the arm to "pop" out of the black plastic block, the hose clamp wont prevent that (at least I cant imagine how it would). ergo, it would not need to be removed to pull the lower arm.

 

[JohnDistai]

That seems like an ad  hoc solution.  You would think that there would be a hole with a retaining pin put through it or something like that.  But what do I know.  I'm not a German Engineer.  Hell, I'm not even an American Engineer....

 

[Corwin]

I wondered what the hose clamp was for. at my local WC it's not in a position to do anything. if it's there to prevent lift out, removing the wire loop would still enable the lower portion of the arm to "pop" out of the black plastic block, the hose clamp wont prevent that (at least I cant imagine how it would). ergo, it would not need to be removed to pull the lower arm.

This is incorrect.  The hose clamp is there to prevent the lower tube from lifting up and unhooking the wire at the top of the handle does nothing to change this.  I just went downstairs to my shop and tried.

So, great news and kudos gain to those Festool engineers -- the lower tube can be quickly an easily removed for transport.  The upper wire can be removed without loosening any screws and therefor the only tool required to remove the lower tube is a screw driver to loosen that hose clamp I mentioned earlier -- that's it.  The black block that the wire fits into has a rather tight grip on the lower tube on my setup, but once you lift the wire retainer up and off and also lower the hose clamp at the bottom the lower tube comes off.  This process should be just as quick as removing the upper portion -- gone in 60 seconds.  Great!

 

[Brice Burrell]

I wondered what the hose clamp was for. at my local WC it's not in a position to do anything. if it's there to prevent lift out, removing the wire loop would still enable the lower portion of the arm to "pop" out of the black plastic block, the hose clamp wont prevent that (at least I cant imagine how it would). ergo, it would not need to be removed to pull the lower arm.

This is incorrect.  The hose clamp is there to prevent the lower tube from lifting up and unhooking the wire at the top of the handle does nothing to change this.  I just went downstairs to my shop and tried.

So, great news and kudos gain to those Festool engineers -- the lower tube can be quickly an easily removed for transport.  The upper wire can be removed without loosening any screws and therefor the only tool required to remove the lower tube is a screw driver to loosen that hose clamp I mentioned earlier -- that's it.  The black block that the wire fits into has a rather tight grip on the lower tube on my setup, but once you lift the wire retainer up and off and also lower the hose clamp at the bottom the lower tube comes off.  This process should be just as quick as removing the upper portion -- gone in 60 seconds.  Great!

Corwin, I never bothered with the hose clamp, never any problems. So I say gone in 30 seconds.

 

[Brice Burrell]

So everyone is on the same page...pictures.

Here's a shot of the back of the vac. You can see how the lower section of the boom attaches to the plastic brackets on the bottom and on the top at of the handle with the wire. No tools needed.
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Here's a shot with another angle on the top handle bracket.
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Like I said, gone in 30 seconds.  

 

[Jonhilgen]

So everyone is on the same page...pictures.

Here's a shot of the back of the vac. You can see how the lower section of the boom attaches to the plastic brackets on the bottom and on the top at of the handle with the wire. No tools needed.
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Here's a shot with another angle on the top handle bracket.
[attachthumb=#]

Like I said, gone in 30 seconds.  

Thanks Brice!  Making it easy to justify the purchase for me too.

Question:  How long do you clean up your shop prior to snapping pictures! [poke]  The floors are spotless...

 

[RONWEN]

I wondered what the hose clamp was for. at my local WC it's not in a position to do anything. if it's there to prevent lift out, removing the wire loop would still enable the lower portion of the arm to "pop" out of the black plastic block, the hose clamp wont prevent that (at least I cant imagine how it would). ergo, it would not need to be removed to pull the lower arm.

This is incorrect.  The hose clamp is there to prevent the lower tube from lifting up and unhooking the wire at the top of the handle does nothing to change this.  I just went downstairs to my shop and tried.

So, great news and kudos gain to those Festool engineers -- the lower tube can be quickly an easily removed for transport.  The upper wire can be removed without loosening any screws and therefor the only tool required to remove the lower tube is a screw driver to loosen that hose clamp I mentioned earlier -- that's it.  The black block that the wire fits into has a rather tight grip on the lower tube on my setup, but once you lift the wire retainer up and off and also lower the hose clamp at the bottom the lower tube comes off.  This process should be just as quick as removing the upper portion -- gone in 60 seconds.  Great!

Corwin, I never bothered with the hose clamp, never any problems. So I say gone in 30 seconds.

When engineers add cost (screw clamp) to a product it is most often because of an issue found in testing or in the field.  The screw clamp won't make removing the boom take any longer so there really isn't any reason not to use it. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

Thanks Brice!  Making it easy to justify the purchase for me too.

Question:  How long do you clean up your shop prior to snapping pictures! [poke]  The floors are spotless...

John, my work space at home always looks like this. If you look in the background of some of my pictures you'll see I keep my floor sweeping attachment ready to go. I clean fairly often while working on a project. I'm used to working someone's home so I know how to run the vac and push a broom. Beside, keeping things clean and organized helps me work more efficiently. 

 

[Brice Burrell]

When engineers add cost (screw clamp) to a product it is most often because of an issue found in testing or in the field.  The screw clamp won't make removing the boom take any longer so there really isn't any reason not to use it. 

No question, the hose clamp is there for a reason. As Corwin pointed out, the clamp prevents the tube from lifting up and out of the brackets. You can probably pop the lower tube out with the clamp on. It's much easier without it. I've moved my vac/boom around for a couple of years with no problems with the clamp off. I'm not suggesting anyone else has to do this too. It's better to be safe than sorry and if you don't move your vac/boom often then there is no reason to take the risk of not using the clamp.

 

[Corwin]

Once again, you cannot remove the lower tube without first removing or at least loosening that hose clamp.  When properly installed, the hose clamp will prevent the tube from lifting up -- and if the tube cannot lift up, it is not able to be removed from the lower bracket.  About three years ago someone here on this board had not installed the hose clamp and had the problem of the tube raising up which caused a problem.  As Ron pointed out, a manufacturer would not provide an unneeded part.

 

[HowardH]

If your boom arm is sagging, be sure to call the service guys and they can send you a replacement aluminum connector that connects the two tubes.  Every one of the Woodcraft's I have visited still have the plastic connector and the arm's are sagging at least 4-5 inches lower than they should.  I don't know if they are a cost item yet, mine wasn't, but it's worth asking about. 

 

[Corwin]

The plastic connector that Howard mentioned above is something that was an issue for me three years ago when I first got my Boom Arm.  It was within the first week or so that the upper portion began to sag.  I received the aluminum replacement when it became available and it solved the problem.  Shorty after that Festool announced that the replacement part would be available through Service for those experiencing the problem.  It is amazing how much that plastic connector had bent.  The replacement part has worked perfectly.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Like Corwin, I had the plastic rotator on the arm and it sagged a lot.  I called and left a message to Festool service.  Next day, I had a voicemail saying "this is Festool service; yes we have since replaced that part with an aluminum version. I have blahblahblah on file as your address for the registration and have posted the part to your address; if that's no longer your address, please call me back".  Whoa... that's service.  And it is sooo much nicer now with the aluminum part.

Thanks, too, Brice for the idea of lowering the boom arm onto the outrigger assembly.  Sa-weet cuz sometimes you need to reach the floor (though I somehow got an extra AS hose I use for that now).

As for the clamp at the bottom... sure, use it if you think it is safer... actually, get the version of that clamp from Rocker that has a nice thumb screw on it to make it even faster (tool-less!).  As for needing it, uhm, I uninstalled the 'necessary' outriggers on day 4.  Never had it tip or be the least bit unstable.

Now, where did I leave those outriggers for Brice's cool idea...

 

[Dave Ronyak]

I have had a Boom Arm on my CT 22 vacuum machine >two years.    Similar to the experience of many others, the plastic junction piece quickly warped, likely aggravated by my installation of a 35mm A/S hose on the Boom Arm which is heavier than the 27mm hose.  Because I only work around my home, when I need to move my machine from one room to another, I only take off the upper section of the Boom.  To facilitate removal, I do not install the through bolt in the rotary joint.  Elimination of this bolt also allows me to rotate the Boom Arm further when in use which I find useful for switching between some operation in my garage/shop.  Because I keep a couple of loaded Sortainers on top of my vacuum machine, I have never had any problems with tipping of the machine.

Here's a link to a thread in which I discuss my Hose Adapter -- to go from 36mm to 27mm hose
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-tools-accessories/ct-hoses/?action=post;quote=73834;num_replies=7;sesc=997ca3961814bcdee7f230493b235310

Dave R.

 

[JohnDistai]

The aluminum junction point is now included in the boom arm kits so you don't have to go through the hassle of replacement.