Countersink use on aluminum?

gsdvorak

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Has anyone tried using the countersink (492521) on aluminum?  It works great on all wood species I have tried, but didn't know if intended for metal. 

Thanks for any feedback!

Regards,
Gerald
 
Yes, I have used it on aluminium, it worked fine. Good hole and no damage to the bit. Aluminium is pretty soft.

Would only use it for the occasional hole though. Not for doing it all day.
 
I've used mine on aluminum from time to time...just go easy. 

As Alex suggested, it can be used on an occasional basis.

If you need to do a lot of counter sinks or really need to hog out some aluminum, purchase some of these. I think they're actually cheaper than the Festool version. They're manufactured by Ford the toolmaker, not the automobile company.
 

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[member=44099]Cheese[/member] are those M A Ford uniflutes? I like mine [big grin]
 
Ya Ron they are. These are over 30 years old and have been sharpened once or twice. I tried using MA Ford's multiple flute version and I always got chatter marks no matter what the speed. So the unflute version is my go-to countersink for aluminum, steel & stainless. Although for stainless I use their TiN coated version.
 
It is called zero flute countersink and they work on metal just fine, probably better than most. It'll cut a single spiral shaving if sharp and used at right speed and feed. If you are worried about your Festool centrotec get one designed for metals from Magafor.
 
Svar said:
Cheese said:
I think they're actually cheaper than the Festool version.

Yes, they were... 30 years ago.  [big grin]

I was actually referring to present day pricing...but you're statement is still hilarious.  [not worthy]
 
Well I just visited the MA Ford website and look what I found.

I do know that KEO also makes their own version. Has anyone tried one of these on a hard material? I'd think they'd be for soft materials only.

 

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They weren't designed for aluminum, but you can use it that way. In fact, we just tested it out here, and it worked well. It's out of focus, but I've attached a picture from our recent experiment.
 

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cheese - M A ford says that zero flute is even ok for hardened steel (35 - 65 Rc)

I use my uniflutes on hardwood as well. Mostly walnut, maple and oak.
 
Thanks everyone!  Yes- I was looking to only use this occasionally for making jigs at this time, but really appreciate the information on some options for more frequent use.  I'll definitely check out the Ford website.

Regards,
Gerald
 
Thanks [member=3192]rvieceli[/member]

That's real good to know. I'll order one and try it out.

I really like the zero flute Festool on wood because you can slice a little or slice a lot and its all very controllable. I've always used the Ford's on wood and was happy until I picked up the 2 Festool zero flutes. I now only use the Festools on wood and the occasional aluminium (heh heh) item. 
 
Cheese said:
Well I just visited the MA Ford website and look what I found.

I do know that KEO also makes their own version. Has anyone tried one of these on a hard material? I'd think they'd be for soft materials only.

I've been using ones like that but made by Hall for a number of years.
Think they are actually for deburring steel but they seem to last well and fit into a standard 1/4 bit holder or a drill chuck.
42637360.jpg

 
I do aluminum glazing fabricating and exclusively use the Weldon style countersinks which is the style that Demographic posted.  You can buy them from any metal fabrication distributor...MSC, McMaster Carr, Fastenal, Grainger et al.  They come in various sizes and are available in 90 and 60 degree.  They do not dull quickly, but after a a couple thousand holes, I roll a sheet of silicon carbide 400 grit put it through the hole and rotate.  They also work well in brass and copper and are available with an appropriate sized centering shaft.
 
rvieceli said:
[member=44099]Cheese[/member] what are you getting in the zero flute?

[member=3192]rvieceli[/member]
I'm looking at the 82 degree C'sk with either a 1/4" or 1/2" shaft diameter, haven't decided yet.

My only thought on the issue is the difference between countersinking in steel and deburring in steel. My gut feel is that it may be better to countersink with the uniflute design, while it may be a lot cleaner to deburr with the zero flute design.

We'll find out...
 
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