With the use of parallel guides, it is set it and forget it. As many pieces as you need can be cut very accurately.
The parallel guides can also be used for repeat cross cutting.
Tom
Have you tried measuring a 25-50-75 block to see where the line lies?One of the discussions we’ve had at work is reading a tape/rule when do you hit the number? Pulling the tape hooked left, pulled to right, you want 1000mm, reading the tape what point on the tape is 1000mm? Is it the left edge of the line, center of the line, right edge of the line? My contention it is the left edge of the line.
Tom, like you, my contention is the left edge of the line. I use mostly Fastcap True 32 tapes. I calibrated these against rules from Starrett and Woodpeckers which both validated left edge of the line.One of the discussions we’ve had at work is reading a tape/rule when do you hit the number? Pulling the tape hooked left, pulled to right, you want 1000mm, reading the tape what point on the tape is 1000mm? Is it the left edge of the line, center of the line, right edge of the line? My contention it is the left edge of the line.
Tom
The edge depends on which direction you’re pulling from. Unless you’re measuring at an opening, odds are for an inside measurement you wont get the tape to lay flat enough.Does the "left edge of the line" include both outside and inside measurements?
Umm. This is easier than you think it is. While the v2.0 stops are excellent, nothing beats a good old physical reference.However, the problem is actually getting them parallel. Ie, getting both guides set at the same distance. I have the woodpeckers set, and issue (assuming you can calibrate them correctly), is where to set the flip stops on the marker lines. Easy to be off by just a tad. It may be small, but parallel sides are important in cabinet carcases!
I assumed when pulled from left to right the left edge of the tick line should be where the measurement should land. The reason being, once you cross the left edge of the line you are now into the whole number, even if it is just 0.0001.
Thanks! This is with the hook over at the left edge of the block, right?
What if you placed the block against a vertical surface and you did an inside measurement with the tape?
NIST Tape Tunnel:
And a still of them taking a measurement:
View attachment 375980
As you can see, they split the line down the middle.
The closeup isolated above is of what he was calling the zero mark,
Additionally, all of the readings showed slightly strong. If he was going to the center of the line this could explain the strong reading.
If he did go center to center, his center unless he edge found each edge of the line his center is his best guess by eye.Yes, but he was zeroing at something other than actual zero, since most tapes don't have an actual zero. For instance, with the vintage tape, he used 2" as zero. That he used the center of the line, I believe, indicates that is the proper technique.
Since he was going from center to center, that explanation wouldn't seem to be applicable.
In addition, some metal rulers are graduated from both ends. If the intent was to use the edge of the tick mark, then they couldn't share the tick marks from each end, but they do share them.
When I get back to my shop in a couple weeks, I'll try to remember to use a metal ruler doing an "inside" measurement and see where my machined blocks line up.
Umm. This is easier than you think it is. While the v2.0 stops are excellent, nothing beats a good old physical reference.
I.e. just use a reference piece/off-cut to distance both stops from the back of the rail, one can even make reference sticks that base off the rib surface the saw runs on if wanting within 0.001" accuracy for the PGs. Done.
Eventually, having several "standard lengths" reference sticks for setting up the PGs is about as easy as it gets for those common cut widths. One can even cut them from aluminium profile, if wanting to be fancy..
Each cut/setup of the PGs. That is the only sure way to scale/stop accuracy concerns between the two arms as well as between two setups of the arms.Are you talking about initial setup and calibration, or setting the width of each cut?