Custom MFT Bench

[Daniel329]

I have had to downsize my work shop and I am giving up my Cabinet Saw and my Miter station. I want to convert my ~30”x60” out feed table into a MFT style table. 

It’s a cabinet I made out of high grade 3/4” Baltic birch.

I’m trying to find a MFT style top but I don’t know where to start.

Anyone in the St. louis area that can machine one? 
or what terms I need to search to find cnc company?

What material?
Baltic Birch
MDF
MDF with Melamine / Laminate skins 

I already decided to go with Benchdogs UK fence, rail square, and parallel guides.

 

[Peter_C]

3/4" is what you want for an MFT style top, so I would just drill what you got with a Parf guide system.https://tsoproducts.com/tools-equipment/ujk-parf-guide-system-mark-ii/

 

[jjowen]

If you really want to downsize your MFT...
[attachimg=1]

 

[afish]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues. 

 

[squall_line]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

Birch in hand reclaimed from an unused piece is still cheaper than MDF purchased new.

 

[afish]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

Birch in hand reclaimed from an unused piece is still cheaper than MDF purchased new.

Perhaps I have a poor grasp on the English language but I did not get that the OP already had Birch in hand for the "top"  sounded like he already had the "base" or cabinet section built in Birch but still needed to source a "top".  Even if I had some Birch on hand "personally" I would save use that for a different project that is better suited for the material.  However, that all really boils down ones personal financial situation.  My comment was based on all things being equal and an individual needing to "purchase" material for a "top"  I dont factor in someone's personal budget  "cost or finances" in my replies as I have no idea what the posters financial situation is unless they state it.  Which he did not.   

 

[Rick Herrick]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

Thanks [member=73094]afish[/member] .  Any recommendations on sealing?  I already have a 4x8 work top that I used the Parf system on.  All is well but I put way too many 20mm holes in it.  I am planning to make another table, probably smaller and want to try MDF.  Just looking for a sealing suggestion.  I realize that after I drill the holes, then I have opened up more areas that could be an issue, humidity wise.  Thank you.

 

[squall_line]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

Birch in hand reclaimed from an unused piece is still cheaper than MDF purchased new.

Perhaps I have a poor grasp on the English language but I did not get that the OP already had Birch in hand for the "top"  sounded like he already had the "base" or cabinet section built in Birch but still needed to source a "top".

Fair point.  I've re-read it a third and fourth time and see where you're coming from and agree with your interpretation.  I think your grasp on the English language is just fine.

 

[afish]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

My High school English teacher might disagree but... that's another issue.

Birch in hand reclaimed from an unused piece is still cheaper than MDF purchased new.

Perhaps I have a poor grasp on the English language but I did not get that the OP already had Birch in hand for the "top"  sounded like he already had the "base" or cabinet section built in Birch but still needed to source a "top".

Fair point.  I've re-read it a third and fourth time and see where you're coming from and agree with your interpretation.  I think your grasp on the English language is just fine.

 

[afish]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

Thanks [member=73094]afish[/member] .  Any recommendations on sealing?  I already have a 4x8 work top that I used the Parf system on.  All is well but I put way too many 20mm holes in it.  I am planning to make another table, probably smaller and want to try MDF.  Just looking for a sealing suggestion.  I realize that after I drill the holes, then I have opened up more areas that could be an issue, humidity wise.  Thank you.

Truthfully, I try not to over think it to much.  I typically have some pre-cat lacquer on hand and just use whatever I have extra of.  Sometimes its just some sanding sealer, sometimes its some form of clear top coat.  I'm in S. Florida so humidity issues here are second to none.  I have sprayed tops before but realistically nowadays I just roll some on using a foam hot dog roller.  The Lacquer will eat the foam roller but depending on the size of the top I can usually get a top coated. Multiple light coats after holes are drilled haven't been an issue for me.  You might get some minor tightening of the holes but it will be minor if any and nothing that would prevent insertion of dogs.  The biggest issue with lacquer is its not very solvent resistant.  I work with epoxy sometimes and if you splash any acetone or other strong solvent the finish just disappears.  On the plus side its easy to repair by just applying another coat or to on the spots.  I dont have a "show" bench like some.  My bench has been cut down, revamped, multiple times.  It gets used hard for all types of tasks.   

 

[Rick Herrick]

Does simple things like MinWax wipe on poly do the trick?

 

[afish]

I dont see why not.  I havent personally used it on a top or MDF but anything that cures should be fine.  The "wipe on" aspect is the part that gives me pause.  I understand wipe on poly doesn't always mean its going to be applied by wiping but, If you choose to wipe on be careful going over the holes you will probably get more finish running down into the holes from the squeegee effect going across the edge of the hole.  (if that makes sense) The foam roller as long as you are not going crazy just hits the top surface and leaves the holes clear. 

 

[Daniel329]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

My High school English teacher might disagree but... that's another issue.

Birch in hand reclaimed from an unused piece is still cheaper than MDF purchased new.

Perhaps I have a poor grasp on the English language but I did not get that the OP already had Birch in hand for the "top"  sounded like he already had the "base" or cabinet section built in Birch but still needed to source a "top".

Fair point.  I've re-read it a third and fourth time and see where you're coming from and agree with your interpretation.  I think your grasp on the English language is just fine.

Actually near me the price is negligible. 5'x5' Baltic Birch, and a 4x8 MDF is about the same price and the table top is sized based on 1/2 of the 5x5 BB.  I could reuse the top that is on it but I have routed some miter slot in to the exsisting top.  If I get a jig I will for sure test on the old top but I will likely put a new top on.  The place I get my BB has some black Melamine MDF but I don't know the price or quality. 

 

[afish]

I would not use "melamine" I doesnt have near the durability of laminate. 

 

[Daniel329]

I would not use Birch, price vs. reward isnt there.  Sealed MDF is best all around surface. Laminate is good if you wont be doing a lot of cutting on the top but will be doing mostly glue ups.  The laminate offers extended durability and glue is easily cleaned/removed from the surface.  However, if used for cutting you will either need to plan your cuts better and just have one kerf or use some type of spacer/foam to protect the top. As others have mentioned 3/4 is what you want for thickness to avoid any clamp fitment issues.

The price is about the same in my area.  I use the BB a lot.  This will likely be my only work surface in my new shop (cuts and Glue ups). I planed on adding a replaceable spoil board for cross cuts. and possibly over hanging or have a full spoil board top for rips.  haven't decided that yet. 

My current process, I have a 2" foam sheet I lay on the ground and break down sheet good on then use the table saw to cut to final demotions.  I could get my rips to final detentions with the foam and parallel guides. Open to suggestions. 

 

[Daniel329]

I would not use "melamine" I doesnt have near the durability of laminate.

This was also my thought going MDF then adding Laminate on top.  The place I get my Baltic Birch has a MDF Melamine.  I am going to go look at that and price it.  Its described as MDF Melamine not just Melamine,  which is usually looser practical board and I know I don't want that. 

 

[Daniel329]

If you really want to downsize your MFT...
[attachimg=1]

I love this.  I might make one of these as well to attached bench top tools.  I see so many uses for this. 

 

[MikeGE]

Does simple things like MinWax wipe on poly do the trick?

Atomic Ryan used a 50/50 mix of wipe-on oil-based poly and thinner for his BF/MFT MDF top.  I can't remember how many coats he applied, but it was a lot.

I used two coats of hardwax oil on my Valchromat top, and am very pleased with the durability and the ability to flick off the occasional drop of dried PVA.

 

[jjowen]

If you really want to downsize your MFT...
[attachimg=1]

I love this.  I might make one of these as well to attached bench top tools.  I see so many uses for this.

The MFT is the main bench, but this zooms around on locking wheels to wherever I want to infeed / outfeed / extend. I call it a 'satellite bench'.

 

[dalep]

I made a 2m MFT using 18mm Phenolic Ply (Trailer board)

Its resin coating makes cleanup from glue or paint a breeze.

[attachimg=1]