Cutting 3" pine stair stringers

snowman996

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May 5, 2011
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I have a lot of  3" thick pine stair stringers to cut, which method would you use for the cleanest finished job? I have two options: cutting both side with the TS75 and finishing the cut with the Carvex (with the long Carvex blade) guided by the rail or go for the complete cut with only the Carvex mounted on the guiding rail, in this situation I am concerned about blade deflection that may occur. What do you think?
 
Why would you need the Carvex? The TS 55 will cut the 3" piece, one pass each side. Set up stops to align the rail.

Tom
 
tjbnwi said:
Why would you need the Carvex? The TS 55 will cut the 3" piece, one pass each side. Set up stops to align the rail.

Tom

I guess you mean the TS 75 but Festool says "Capable of cutting material that is 2-3/4" thick"

Do you mean to cut without the guide rail?
 
Michael Kellough said:
tjbnwi said:
Why would you need the Carvex? The TS 55 will cut the 3" piece, one pass each side. Set up stops to align the rail.

Tom

I guess you mean the TS 75 but Festool says "Capable of cutting material that is 2-3/4" thick"

Do you mean to cut without the guide rail?

I mean the TS 55, make a cut, flip the tread over make a second cut. I do it both cross cutting and ripping.

I would never recommend making a cut with the TS without a guide rail. I know there is the edge guide available, I've never used one.

Tom
 
I not sure my question was clear, cutting the stair treads mean a lot of stopped cut that I have to finish perfectly square in the corner, this is an exposed (open) stair so no room for rough cuts or mistakes.
 
This is one of those situations where only you can decide what's best. It may take some trial cuts to make the best decesion.

Without being there, not sure how I would approach this.

Tom
 
I read what you posted, but them when you mentioned needed to cut totally square stopped cuts it made me wonder - Did you mean stingers - those things and hold the treads and risers instead?

Forgive me please if I misunderstood.

Peter
 
Thanks Peter for pointing that out, strigners is probably the right term, sorry for my english...  [embarassed]
 
That info helps.

I would do my layout on the room side of the stringer. After checking it for the 100 th time. As Peter did, fabricate a jig to set the rail. I'd cut along the lines with the TS 75, stoping at the intersection. Carefully finish the cut with a jig saw (Carvex if I had one). You may have to do some hand work to get everything just right.

Tom
 
I have used a combination of TS55 and Trion to cut strings, the Trion with a festool blade is pretty accurate though some cuts needed a little clean up with a paring chisel.

Peter Halle, I like the Qwas rail dogs set up, very cool  [smile] I used the FS-KS angle attachment on the rail to make my cuts as that's what I had to hand.

Rob.
 
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